myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

alright, so here it goes. i swapped a series 5 turbo motor into my old s4 86 gxl. i got it all in there, i have all the necessary parts for the swap pressure sensor afm etc etc. but it just starts and dies, kinda like its not getting fuel. a couple days ago it would start up and rev for like 4 seconds and then die, but ever since i got the right boost sensor and afm it just starts and dies. I swapped the old n/a fuel pump out for an s4 turbo one so it should be getting pressure. but then i read somewhere i have to get the s4 turbo fuel pump relay or rewire my relay for constant voltage. so my question is do these symptoms sound right? to just start up and die like that? do any of you guys know how to rewire the relay for constant volatge and if so can you show me how? lol im just a kid and this swap is gettin to me. im seriously stuck on this and i have a NOW turbo seven jst sitting here waiting to be driven .
PPLLEEEAsSSEEE someone out there helppp meee, thanks guys
-mitch

whereiscarmensandiego

u dont need to rewire your pump relay as u dont have one they came on turbo cars only and your pump if hooked up correctly should already be a direct wire.

and check your timing is it off>? check fuel filter and amke sure the filter u put on the pump isint cloged or bad. try running it with no filter on the pump just dont drive it around though.


and if u bought your parts used u may need to start trouble shooting everything like the ecu for example could be bad swap your old one back in and see if that works again u just cant drive it around but it will idle fine. smae thing goes for the airflowmeter and boost sensor just try swaping these things out to verify they arnt bad. it dosent take long to swap the sensors.

HAILERS

To just start then die sounds more like a afm problem. IF it does this repeatedly.

The afm is not used during start. Once the rpms are over 500rpm, Then the afm is used for fuel delivery. Get my point?

Then again, it might just be one large air leak somewhere.

It does not sound like a fuel pump problem at all. Even a non turbo pump is more than adequate for starting/idling/low load. IF you jumper the fuel pump check connector and put the key to ON you should be hearing fuel pass thru the fuel rails constantly and constantly being returned to the tank. If so, then the fuel pump is fine and dandy.

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

the pump works cause i can hear it. i troubleshot the ecu, and its in working condition. I asked mazdatrix and told them the symptoms, and before i could even mention the turbo fuel pump relay, they said "theres this relay swtch underneath the steeringwheel column, called a fuellll" i finished the sentence with FUEL PUMP RELAY!.
now i just need to find where i can order one... i dont believe its the afm because ive used both and both have caused the same problem. When i start it up and i give full throttle it wont even bog, just shuts off like its a fuel related problem.

88GXLJoe

You really troubleshooted the ECU? Cause... ummm... all the relay does is turn on the fuel pump...

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

im troubleshooting everything.. lol ive been working on this project FOREverRR and ill do anything to get it running..

HAILERS

When you HOLD the key to START, one of the coils in the Circuit Opening Relay pulls in and feeds the fuel pump. Once you let go of the key to START and let it return to just ON, then that coil just mentioned relaxes and does not keep the relay pulled in anymore.

What does keep that relay pulled in, is the fuel switch inside the afm. That switch in the afm supplies a gnd to the OTHER coil in the Circuit Opening Relay and THAT keeps the relay pulled in supplying power to the fuel pump.

When you jumper the yellow, two socket connector called the Fuel Pump Check Connector, you do the exact same thing as what the afm fuel switch does. You put a gnd on the OTHER coil in the Circuit Opening Relay to keep it pulled in.

So what I'm saying is this.........if you jumper the fuel pump check connector and have the key to ON, then the pump runs continuously as long as the key is to On or better. So jumper that connector and start the engine. IF the engine dies after a couple of seconds, then it is not the fault of the Circuit Opening Relay. IF it stayed running, then the fuel switch inside the afm is suspect (not likely at all).

A few years ago when I called Mazdatrix about a double throttle diaphram and got *blank looks* (on the phone), I lost a bit of confidence in them. At least in the people who answer the phone. That's about the equivalant of me calling Rotary Performance in Garland Tx and wanting to buy a part and the girl saying "Ali isn't here right now". I ain't interested in Ali, I want to BUY parts. Dummy service.

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

yeah i jumped the pump so itd run continuosly. unfortunatly the engine started but just shut right off like it did before. i work right next to mazdatrix and am friends with alot of them there. a couple of them are pretty legit on info, you just need to talk to the right person lol.
i was checking out some of the diagrams, but unfortunatly the plug i was looking for was the only plug on the piece of paper that the ink got smeered on.. lol what luck do i have..
but the thing is the turbo models had the relay swtch and a resistor, a guy is gonna hook me up with one for 15$, its worth a try : /... im gonna tap a T line and check the fuel pressure tommorow at work.

RX7S BETTER BE FUN AS HELL TO DRIVE! CAUSE WITH ALL THE MONEY IVE PUT INTO MINE AND ALL THE TROUBLE I WOULD BE HELLA DISSAPOINTED IF THEY WERENT.. IVE NEVER EVEN DRIVEN ONE LOL AND IVE HAD ONE FOR ALMOST A YEAR

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

what i dont understand is..
when i had the n/a boost pressure sensor and the n/a AFM it would at least run if i held the throttle down like i could flucuate the throttle and it would respond just not idle.
now with the proper boost pressure sensor(turbo) and the proper AFM(turbo) it wont even respond to throttle once started, it just dies.. just a loud BRAAAAAAAAWWPPP 2k sputter sputer die...
like WTF

HAILERS

The Solenoid Resistor/Relay isn't needed at all. I've a 87nonturbo converted into a turbo and use the stock non turbo wiring.

The solenoid/resistor/relay just cuts the voltage down to 9vdc when the car isn't under load. During STARTING it gives you the full batt voltage.

The fuel rail pressure is going to be approx 37-39 psi whether you used a non turbo pump or a turbo pump. Been there, seen that, done that.

All that said, I've no magic bullet to tell you what your problem is. Just trying to more or less get you off the idea it's the fuel pump. The only way I know to actually prove that one way or the other, is to put a pressure gauge tee'd into the fuel in line from the fuel filter. With the check connector jumpered and the key ON, the pressure should be in the 37-39 psi range before and while trying to start. I see where you wrote that your going to do that. Good.

I'd whip that non turbo afm back in there and try to get the engine up to some normal temp. Then maybe try to swap the Turbo afm back in to see if it'll work or not.

Beware any afm that has had the black plastic cover removed. The original cover has RTV around the edges. A clear RTV the last time I looked. Plus the AIR ADJUSTMENT screw should still have it's metal cover, covering it. The screw should not be exposed. An exposed screw means someone fiddle fucked with it.