as per the attached picture my voltages on the harness end of the Circuit Opening Relay are;
FP | Fc | B | B | STA | E1 |
0V | 0V |12V| 0V| 0V | 0V | Ignition sw on
12 | 0v |0v |12v| 0v |0v | measuring plate open
12 | 0v |0v |12v|12v |0v | Ignition sw start

the relay checks out... what might be causing this irregularity in the harness end of the terminal?

Any thoughts?

 

I don't understand why you have two sets of columns for B.

B is battery voltage coming from the ignition switch any time the key is to ON.

The FC shows that it should be 12v with the key to ON, but zero when the key is held to START or the measuring plate is HELD open.

YOU show ZERO vdc for FC with the key to ON. That would indicate that pin 3K is not connected to the ECU or has an open b/t 3K on the ECU and the circuit opening relay

So I can't understand why TWO *B*s????????

I KNOW that series four cars have no PRIMING. Series FIVE also show to have no PRIMING. They only have priming IF the key is held to START. Turning the key to ON does not prime anything. Pump does not work just by putting the key to ON.

Your two B columns are getting to me. What's going on?

 

sorry, that was a copy and paste error here is what actually is going on.
FP | Fc | B | STA | E1 |
0V | 0V | 0V| 0V | 0V | Ignition sw on
12 | 0v |12v| 0v |0v | measuring plate open
12 | 0v |12v|12v |0v | Ignition sw start

 

Well, you should have 12v on the B and Sta anytime the key is to ON. So the ignition switch must be giving you the problem.

That *B* wire should be Black/White. It comes from the ENGINE fuse in the interior and that fuse is fed from the ignition switch from a black/white wire also.

See page B-3 of the free online wiring schematics for a series five car. You fix B and that will fix Fc.

By the way, the engine won't start without the Engine fuse being good, so if it's starting, then I think you misread the meter or did not have the key to ON.

 

Ok. I finally managed to get things to work well I had a loose connection on the fust box... however the engine cranks fine... but the fuel pump will not prime own it's own only if I jumper the connector by the MAP. And then I still have no fuel... I replaced all of the fuses that are pertinent... and still nothing.... I am beginning to run out of ideas... It has been a long time since I have messed with the stock ecu and stuff... I am used to haltech... lol
any thoughts as to why I don't have fuel?

 

Any update to how u resolved this? Experiencing the same issue

 

the fuel pump does not prime with the stock ECU. the pump runs when you have the ignition in "start" or the ECU can turn it on when the engine is running.

 

for my S4 NA and this might help someone else, my fuel pump primes with the test connector jumpered, key switched to on, AND the clutch pedal pushed in.