Right on. I'm gonna try to drive it, for a little, then do that.

Thanks!


Ant

 

Hey, the only question I saw was what pin it was!!

 

*******Need 1 volt there at a warm 750 rpm idle. Adjust idle screw as necessary to attain the 1 volt...**********

DO WHAT!??????????? Really Wayne, don't leave your computer turned on and walk away from it. It's obvious someone came along and posted in your name.

 

What the heck are you implying now, Hailers?

Oops, I found it, lol...

The idle screw thing...

 

All right, Ant, forget the part about the idle screw adjustment. My bad. That's why I keep Hailers around, to find the errors of my ways, lol...

You'll need to tweak the screw that tweaks the throttle linkage that the TPS plunger sits on for your 1 volt....

 

AHA! See? THIS is why there are so many people on this forum. To fix other people's mistakes.

That's w/ the car ON (not started), and the DMM on V, Ja? Makin' sure... I kinda have this habit of forgetting the most IDLE (no pun intended) tasks.

Oh... Here's some crazy ****: I drive the car fine to Starbucks, which is about 20, or so, blocks away from the house - WITHOUT the TPS plugged in.

Okay. That's fine, you say.

Saw a couple people w/ 7s, so I tried to hawk them down, but lost 'em. (Car still drives fine, and this was about an hour after we got there and were gabbing.)

About an hour, or so, later, we get in the car to leave. Start... Sputter-Sputter*die* Try it again..... <repeat>



So, I go in and REconnect the TPS..... Car runs swell. No sputter, no bogging, no problems.



MY CAR'S POSSESSED! One minute it runs FINE w/ the TPS, the next fine withOUT it.

<groan>

Any ideas?


Ant

 

Umm, leave the TPS plugged in?

 

Thought about that, but sometimes it runs like **** with it, and sometimes like **** without it....


<shrug>

 

Tell ya what, find that ECU pin/wire, and hook up a meter to it full time until you figure out what's going on here. Set the meter in the pass seat, and watch it like a hawk...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...leshooting+ECU

 

Okay... I have 1.1 AC/V~ and .66 DC/V (running), and 1.35 AC/V~ and .77 DC/V (ON)

Which reading?

 

Here's some more odd ****. These are behind the glovebox, above the ECU.... What do these go to, and/ or what are they for?

 

Do your windshield wipers work?

 

Okay... Just looked at the chart in the FSM (chpt. 4a Pg. 31) and it says 1 v with the car ON (not running.)


So I adjust it to 1 vDC (DC beacuse the cars not alternating the current) flat. I think that's like 1.46 vAC w/ the car ON.

<sigh>

 

Yup.

 

I'd say DOOR HARNESS plug if it has ten pins. The picture is too fuzzy and the number of holes can't be determined nor the wire colors.

 

OK, Ant, let's learn this today, if nothing else-

KEEP YOUR METER ON DC VOLTS

Now that that's settled, if you've got the TPS set to 1 volt DC, leave the meter connected to that ECU pin, turn the key on, and slowly push the gas peddle down. Watch the meter. The voltage will climb steadily to about 4.5 vdc. You're looking for any "hiccups" in the meter while the voltage is climbing. No hiccups, your TPS is good.

If the meter needle (or digital reading if you're using a digital, which I don't recommend for this test) falls during the sweep, your TPS is bad.

Pretty cool, huh?

 

v/DC. Check.

It's there, and set.

Reading: 1.01 v/DV

Starting......

Rev...

WOO-HOO!


BRB... Drove around the block... No stutters or sputters.... Infact, just for S&G, I drove to Starbucks, to Firestone (to get my other 2 Fuzions. 195s in the front, 205s in the rear... on 185 wheels), BACK to the 'buck, and back home....

NO PROBLEMS!!!

Only one issue, to speak of. Randomly the idle dips to trench - not stalling - but to about 500, or so rpms.

Odd.

Thanks for all the help!!!

Will keep you posted.


Ant

 

Depends on WHICH plug you're talking about:

The BOTTOM one has, on top, 2 then gap (clip) then 2; Bottom has five. Top? No friggin clue. It was a hemmoeroid just to take the picture. Not the door harness, though. My Pass. window works from the driver's side.



Ant

 

Well, that hesitation, that I was talking about, is found out, and mildly reoccured...

I decided to drive out to the track, just to do it, and at about 4 grand, I felt this mild hesitation, and the engine felt like it was working kinda hard. RPMs didn't go up, so I knew it wasn't mechanical. On the way home, I was doing about 40, and it started to get worse.

The problem previously went away when I changed out that *ahem* sock.

I've determined that it's the pick up clogging, and is QUITE caused by the amount of **** that's still in the tank. A Buddy of mine said he'd jack me can of like, DBK, or some ****, and that should help the fuel system- side of things.

As far as actually cleaning/ sealing the tank, itself, what should I use (OTHER than a different gas tank)?

Someone posted some other stuff, so I need to scroll back through the posts and find it.

Suggestions?


Ant

 

You need to just shut her down for a while now until you get the crap out of the fuel system...

If the gunk is fairly solid/ hard, you may be better off going with a good used tank (or new, if you want), no matter that you don't want to...

Drain the tank, pull the pump, reinstall the drain plug, and pour some acetone or MEK in there (at least enough to cover the crap). Shake the car/tank around for a couple of minutes, then drain again. If the solvent used seems to be breaking up the gunk and getting it to drain out, repeat the same steps until the tank is clean.

If the solvent doesn't seem to be doing much, change the tank, because you'll never get it all out of there using mechanical means...

 

Thanks, Wyane. I appreciate it. That's the most SOLID answer I've gotten outta ANYBODY...

A couple people suggested I get some Gas tank cleaner and sealant (150 bux from Eastwood), but I'd STILL have to buy 1/2 gallon of Acetone AND Muretic acid.

**** that ****.

I'll just get a few gallons of acetone, and do it your way.

Next Question: Drain plug. Where?



[EDIT: Nevermind. I checked the FSM, and found that answer out; all by my little self!]

 

Another Odd question (Hey, I'm good for those!): If I don't have a Cat, I can remove the Air pump, right?

I was sifting through section 4A of the FSM, and got to the exhaust section, and it shows, basically, the air pump supplying air to bothe the intake, and the cat.

Is this a true assumption?

 

How are you operating your aux port actuators?

I don't have cats either, but I use my air pump for my aux ports (no back pressure in the exhaust anymore, lol).

It also helps when the yearly inspection guy pops the hood for a visual and sees the air pump there

 

My, who? Hell if I know, dude.

Okay, let's put this into some kind of perspective: What happens if I take it out?

 

If you have no cats, then you really don't need the air pump and ACV, BUT...

You may notice some backfiring now (you removed the anti-afterburn valve with the ACV)

If you find that your aux ports aren't operating, you won't have a good air source to use for them now...

You'll probably have to install a dual pulley for the alt to prevent belt slipping...

You'll get no more port air or split air injections into your exhaust stream (this prolly won't bother you too much, as long as your children, neighborhood pets, etc... stay away from your exhaust while the car is running)...