Gibenstein

iTrader: (2)

I meant how the switch itself looks placed in there. Like after its all said and done...

SpeedFreak03

Attached is a "picture" of plug NZ is talking about (I think). Can anyone clarify this? Also, if it is the correct plug, you cut "B" right? Thanks for the extra help, don't wanna **** my car up lol (when i get it that is).

SpeedFreak03

Whoops forgot to attach it. Here it is.

krazykoncepts

if i attempt to turn on the car with the switch off there isnt any damage right??

SpeedFreak03

Nope it will start (using gas in the lines), sputter (from starting to run out of gas in the lines), then die (when all gas in the lines is used up). No damage!

HAILERS

B be the one. Yes.

SpeedFreak03

Cool. Thanks for the help!

c_mart_28

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so its the middle, black and white one. I wonder who it was that was telling me it was the Thickest one because the thicker one on my '88 TII is more gray/white than black/white.

SpeedFreak03

Yea I dont know what anyone else told you, but its the middle wire lol, I dunno what the thicker thing is.

BLACK ROCKET

Thanks Hailer! Got mine done.

Rex4Life

Just to confuse everyone. I put mine in the blue wire going to the pump (but mine is in a FB chassis). This way I can cut the fuel even when it is cranking. I have needed it alot while trying to start my freshly rebuilt motor. It is better to switch on control power to a relay as opposed to the load (pump) side. Unfortunately you would need a double switch cause there are two ways to activate the relay. Using the main b/w is same as using the blue on the pump side--except you'll be controlling the power on the main load side of the circuit.

The FB circuits are very similar to the FC NA. When I install the Walbro I'll be using the relay resistor setup for the 88 T2.

I used a switch for marine duty. I think it's rated at like 25 A. Remember most of these boat systems use 12V so you can get some good switches at the boat stores.

Scott

krazykoncepts

thanks everyone did mine last nite