Fuel Injector Cleaners???? should they be used???
12-18-03, 10:10 AM
#26
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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Applicable Model/s
All EFI Models
(Except DIESEL)
Subject:
FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER
DESCRIPTION
To improve fuel injection performance, Mazda has tested and approved a highly effective FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER. The kit and cleaner is recommended for all Mazda fuel injection systems. Mazda's Fuel Injector Cleaner uses a chemical "reducing agent" rather than the common solvent used in the typical aftermarket cleaners. As a result, in tests against aftermarket competitors, Mazda's cleaner outperformed all others and was the only one to restore the fuel injector's flow rate to the original factory specifications.
Dirty fuel injectors are an increasing common problem. Many cases are due to gasoline deposits such as gum, resin and sulfur. These deposits can cause stalling, difficult starting, rough idle and diminished power.
As with carburetors and spark plugs, injectors are also subject to deposits and contamination due to poor fuel. This can create many driveability problems such as hard starting, rough idle or poor acceleration.
To help combat this problem, Mazda has authorized the use of Chevron Techron Gasoline Additive which is a detergent that is added to the gasoline.
This product can be used as a temporary measure until a good quality gasoline with adequate detergents can be obtained.
This product is available from your local Chevron Distributor in 12 oz containers, which will treat one tank of fuel.
NOTE:
This includes RX-7 models also.
WARNING:
Be sure to read and follow the instructions given on the Techron container.
All EFI Models
(Except DIESEL)
Subject:
FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER
DESCRIPTION
To improve fuel injection performance, Mazda has tested and approved a highly effective FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER. The kit and cleaner is recommended for all Mazda fuel injection systems. Mazda's Fuel Injector Cleaner uses a chemical "reducing agent" rather than the common solvent used in the typical aftermarket cleaners. As a result, in tests against aftermarket competitors, Mazda's cleaner outperformed all others and was the only one to restore the fuel injector's flow rate to the original factory specifications.
Dirty fuel injectors are an increasing common problem. Many cases are due to gasoline deposits such as gum, resin and sulfur. These deposits can cause stalling, difficult starting, rough idle and diminished power.
As with carburetors and spark plugs, injectors are also subject to deposits and contamination due to poor fuel. This can create many driveability problems such as hard starting, rough idle or poor acceleration.
To help combat this problem, Mazda has authorized the use of Chevron Techron Gasoline Additive which is a detergent that is added to the gasoline.
This product can be used as a temporary measure until a good quality gasoline with adequate detergents can be obtained.
This product is available from your local Chevron Distributor in 12 oz containers, which will treat one tank of fuel.
NOTE:
This includes RX-7 models also.
WARNING:
Be sure to read and follow the instructions given on the Techron container.
that the stuff ive been using in all my cars and trucks scince i can remember.
12-18-03, 11:06 AM
#28
German Chocolate Suplex
Join Date: Nov 2003
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Thanks IceMark,
I've been reading alot of threads and archives and I search everythin I do and buy here. For the most part I trust the fourm for these things. My only followup question is, Can anything be done to remove the carbon buildup in the engine short of a rebuild?
- Max
I've been reading alot of threads and archives and I search everythin I do and buy here. For the most part I trust the fourm for these things. My only followup question is, Can anything be done to remove the carbon buildup in the engine short of a rebuild?
- Max
12-18-03, 11:19 AM
#29
I came, I saw, I boosted.
Join Date: Apr 2001
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When I had my injectors out, I did the following to clean them- whether or not it worked is another story.
I blasted them backwards (through the output oricife) with carb cleaner through the straw, then submerged them in kerosene (had it for engine cleaning) forabout 12 hours, periodically opening and closing each one for a few minutes with a D battery. Took them out of the kerosene, and blasted them again.
Who knows if it did anything though... Kerosene?
Any thoughts?
I blasted them backwards (through the output oricife) with carb cleaner through the straw, then submerged them in kerosene (had it for engine cleaning) forabout 12 hours, periodically opening and closing each one for a few minutes with a D battery. Took them out of the kerosene, and blasted them again.
Who knows if it did anything though... Kerosene?
Any thoughts?
12-18-03, 01:23 PM
#30
Refined Valley Dude
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
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Originally posted by HAILERS
Mazda's Fuel Injector Cleaner uses a chemical "reducing agent" rather than the common solvent used in the typical aftermarket cleaners.
Mazda's Fuel Injector Cleaner uses a chemical "reducing agent" rather than the common solvent used in the typical aftermarket cleaners.
For everyone's 411: the "common solvent" they are referring to is kerosene.
12-18-03, 01:28 PM
#31
Refined Valley Dude
Join Date: Oct 2001
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Originally posted by MaxJenius211
Thanks IceMark,
I've been reading alot of threads and archives and I search everythin I do and buy here. For the most part I trust the fourm for these things. My only followup question is, Can anything be done to remove the carbon buildup in the engine short of a rebuild?
- Max
Thanks IceMark,
I've been reading alot of threads and archives and I search everythin I do and buy here. For the most part I trust the fourm for these things. My only followup question is, Can anything be done to remove the carbon buildup in the engine short of a rebuild?
- Max
There is.
Originally posted by hypntyz7
Personally Im a fan of redlining any car I drive (that isnt being broken in from a rebuild or just had a used engine installed that week) once per driving session, be that once per day, once per week, or 5 times a day.
Now, about this maintenance debate. I am personally a fan of water injection. Not the type turbo guys run to keep intake temps down, but the type you do in your driveway as a maintenance procedure. Find a vacuum line or lines (teed together) that feed both the front and rear rotors, grab the throttle and rev the engine up to 4k or so, and dip the hose in a jug of water and let it drink. The water gets pulled in, hits the rotors and turns to steam, and takes carbon (slowly) with it.
If you're starting with an original/old used engine, Id do this 3-4 times weekly for about a month to clean as much as you can out. I'd also do 2-3 gallons per treatment. From then on, once per month. IF Im maintaining a rebuilt engine, I do this once per month or once per thousand miles to keep everything clean inside.
I have torn down engines where I had previously done this treatment, and they are always very clean, if not carbon-less altogether. The water treatment, along with straight premix, would result most likely in a rotary engine that lasted over 200k miles as the rule, rather than the exception.
Personally Im a fan of redlining any car I drive (that isnt being broken in from a rebuild or just had a used engine installed that week) once per driving session, be that once per day, once per week, or 5 times a day.
Now, about this maintenance debate. I am personally a fan of water injection. Not the type turbo guys run to keep intake temps down, but the type you do in your driveway as a maintenance procedure. Find a vacuum line or lines (teed together) that feed both the front and rear rotors, grab the throttle and rev the engine up to 4k or so, and dip the hose in a jug of water and let it drink. The water gets pulled in, hits the rotors and turns to steam, and takes carbon (slowly) with it.
If you're starting with an original/old used engine, Id do this 3-4 times weekly for about a month to clean as much as you can out. I'd also do 2-3 gallons per treatment. From then on, once per month. IF Im maintaining a rebuilt engine, I do this once per month or once per thousand miles to keep everything clean inside.
I have torn down engines where I had previously done this treatment, and they are always very clean, if not carbon-less altogether. The water treatment, along with straight premix, would result most likely in a rotary engine that lasted over 200k miles as the rule, rather than the exception.
12-18-03, 01:40 PM
#32
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by MaxJenius211
My only followup question is, Can anything be done to remove the carbon buildup in the engine short of a rebuild?
- Max
My only followup question is, Can anything be done to remove the carbon buildup in the engine short of a rebuild?
- Max
12-18-03, 02:32 PM
#33
Originally posted by MaxJenius211
One person suggested that i mix a certain type of paint thinner in my gas and run a tank of that to clean them.
-Max
One person suggested that i mix a certain type of paint thinner in my gas and run a tank of that to clean them.
-Max
12-18-03, 10:01 PM
#36
German Chocolate Suplex
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Okay, let me get this straight (oh and for those who don't know by now, I'm pretty sure I'm a complete idiot). I should 1.) Start the car, 2.) disconnect a vacuum hose (air, right?), 3.) put hose in bucket of water to suck into the engine, 4.) do this for how long?, 5.) do a couple of times a week to get all the carbon out.
Thanks again to everyone who is posting, this sounds like it might make good information for a faq.
-Max
Thanks again to everyone who is posting, this sounds like it might make good information for a faq.
-Max
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