I have an 88 TII just rebuilt it is still hard to start. I need to run a fuel cut off switch. Can someone please give me some info on how to do this?

 

There are plenty of right ups on this, search damnit. haha is all i know is use the wire from under the steering columb, i think its the big yellow one. do not use the wire directly from the fuel pump.

 

No, you need to find out why your car is hard to start. A fuel pump switch is not a fix, it's a band-aid. If it's hard to start because it's flooding, remove the injectors and have them cleaned (which should have been done during the rebuild). Dirty injectors are the most likely cause, and will be having other adverse effects other than hard starting.

In the mean time, a switch can be used as a temporary measure to get you going. Find the relay mentioned above (the plug's yellow, not the relay) and cut the middle wire. Solder some 2-core wire to the cut ends and run it to somewhere handy like the panel uder the steering column with the little vent. Install the switch there.

 

I do need to have my injectors cleaned but isnt it normal for a fresh rebuilt engine to be hard to start when hot until it is broken in?

 

Not that I've heard. A fuel pump cut switch is only required if the engine's flooding. A freshly rebuilt engine shouldn't be doing that unless the injectors are clogged.

 

injectors might be leaking.

 

I didnt build this man's engine(that I know of) but I can tell you from 30+ rebuilds now that an engien using old rotor housings WILL flood each and every shutdown until breakin is complete.

Flooding, in any rotary, is not so much an injector problem as people lead you to believe. Think about it...our 7's use the same ND injectors as every other import on the market since 1985 or earlier. Those other cars dont have flooding problems like us do they? WHat is the link? the rotary engine...

Flooding is much more of a **low compression** problem than a fuel problem. Sure, it may manifest itself as a fuel problem. IF an engine is low compression it wont begin to try and ignite fuel as quickly, which rapidly leads to flooding adn non-starting.

Old rotaries flood more and more the lower the compression falls. Fresh rebuilds with old housings are also low compression. I have built a few that measured in teh 40's to begin with(with poor housings, my own experimental engines).This is because you have a perfectly flat apex seal riding on a very grooved up housings, which leads to compression blowby and power loss.

The longer you drive this rebuild, the seals and housings wear together, adn fill the gaps, raising compression and power and stopping flooding later on. I have to use a fuel cut switch on all my rebuild installs except the ones that use VERY good rotor housings.

This is why when building an engine for someone other than myself installing it, I use the best housings I have. This way it will be easier for them to start it and break it in. I use the worst housings myself, because I know how to start one up and how to install the cut switch until it builds itself up. By the time you log 2000 miles on this new engine, you wont need that switch anymore. The greatest gains on a new engine are seen between 1000 and 1500 miles.