Prestone gentleman....and leave It at that

 

When you have the thermostat out, inspect the bypass port under where it sits. The spring loaded disc on the bottom of the stat should close that port. On my 87 that port was eroded all around the edges. It allowed enough bypassing to give symptoms like a partially blocked radiator. (overheat only under higher load) I repaired it and a hole in the inside wall with Bondo marine epoxy putty stick.

 

bump

Well, I have the mazda OEM t-stat sitting in AL waiting for me to go get it..

Question....

Not only does it heat up when running it hard (IE: WOT/redline through 1,2 and 3rd gear....) but now it runs REALLY hot, when I turn the a/c on and just cruising. What is up with that?

It's worrying me, alot. As I posted before, about coolant colors, I got alot of different ideas about it. Ok, I have DEX-Cool in my engine. Blah, don't tell me it's bad, because I already know.

There is no way I'm going to flush it, put the green stuff back in, then when my t-stat comes flush again, waste of time. Question is, could it be my coolant that is causing the problem?

It's not my water pump, I changed that 2 months ago, due to poor condition on it... it was leaking coolant everywhere.

Could it be my radiator?

I read the manual - and looked at how to take apart the stuff that I need to take off to get to the radiator(by that I mean.... mean the clutch fan (4 nuts) 2 hoses and the 4 bolts holding the radiator in), but my mom won't let me do it without a "male" or someone with me - because she thinks I'm gonna **** it up.

 

Allright. I still stick by checking the radiator, having it flow-tested or whatnot, and the fins checked out & cleaning the BAC.

Also... there shouldn't be any harm in flushing your system, putting the green stuff in it, and NOT running a thermostat until you can get the one from AL. It won't run any HOTTER without a thermostat. Then, once you get the T'stat, just dropping it in, burping the system, and adding more coolant.

Take off the radiator, have it checked out. Flush the system, fill with green; take the thermostat OUT until you can get a new one. Cleaning the BAC is as simple as un-bolting it, and spraying carb cleaner into the holes until it comes out clear.

That'll do for now, feel free to critique me guys.

~Colby

 

mph? bcty lives in Canada...

 

I agree with your advice, get that radiator out and properly flushed. Pulling the t'stat temporarily would show if that was the prob, but if it makes no difference you might as well reinstall it.

BTW, excuse a foreigners ignorance, but why can't you just drive to the Mazda dealer and buy a t'stat? I’ve heard several people say they’ve ordered one and are waiting for it. Don’t Mazda stock common parts?

 

The problem is probably the rad. Replace it or have it rodded or otherwise repaired. On the off chance that it does not solve the problem (it will) replace the water pump.

Also, remember that sustained high RPM driving will heat up any 2nd gen whether it is cooling properly or not. The water pump begins to cavitate around 6K. If you are racing or doing other activities that keep the engine in the high RPM range, invest in a set of underdrive pullies.

 

Where I live, it's almost a 2 hour drive to the Mazda Dealership. And the local auto parts store is in walking distance. I doubt that's the case with her ( Being in Urban Flordia ) but her in Rural MO, that's my issue.

It seems I'm chocked full of good advice recently... GO ME!

 

km/h fool

 

Well, In pensacola - they have yet to finish building their mazda dealer ... so I can't go there. The only other choice I have, is yes... 2 hours away in FWB(Fort Walton Beach).....

My t-stat has already been ordered, and at a good price from a friend who works @ the mazda dealer in AL. I just need to go get it....


Aaron - I'll look into it. Will probably have one of the guys here show me if anything is clogged up or whatever .....

I have a feeling it's not my water pump, as I changed it about 1-2months ago...but you never know. I would think, to my knowledge and experience from the bad water pump, it would be leaking coolant, and it's not doing so...

 

Bummer!
The big Mazda dealership that stocks parts for all the other Auckland dealerships is ~10min from home...

 

After responding to your post about coolant color I think you get the picture there. Flush out the damn coolant system pronto and put the green colored coolant in. yes the 50/50 kind. Sorry being harsh but I don't want you to have to buy yet another water pump.

 

i guess you didnt look at his location...you'll notice he's from Nanaimo, BC...that's in Canada.

that being the case, he's Canadian...like ME, and is talking about 200km/h (approx. 120mph)

just thought i'd point that out.

 

It's been 3 months after the last post, but you're right.