asghar4

I did tons of searches and followed directions. Still nothing! Someone please tell me what i'm doing wrong.


The Situation is that my car turns on, has rough idle between 1000 and 500 RPM's (surges)
I tuned up the TPS, (using a multimeter) got it to 1K ohms and at WOT its at 5.1Kohms. I also hooked up the lightbulb tester after I set the TPS and it showed both bulbs on.... tried adjusting with the multimeter again... the it showed both bulbs off. but I trust the multimeter so I left it with those settings.

I tried to adjust the BAC. I'm not sure if I did this right. I set up a jumper on the intial set coupler (not sure which one that was, I jumpered the green connector, drivers side front of the car, had two wires going to it)
Then turned on the car and when I could get it to idle I turned the bac screw back and fourth trying to make it stop surging and stick to idle but it kept surging and eventually died.

I also tried the fooling with the variable resistor.

I took it out for a drive trying not to let the idle come down so it won't shut off... it drove fine till I punched the gas... under heavy acceleration it felt like I hit a brick wall. (I am pretty sure this is not the 3800 hesitation) its wierd... it just bogs and feels like I hit a building.

What the hell is wrong with my car??

PLease help, I need to drive again!

Asghar

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

With I could help, but at least I'll bump you to the top..

HELP THIS MAN, DAMMIT!!!!!

BlackRx7

Okay you made the # 1 sudo mechanic mistake, you thought you knew what you were doing, I'm not flaming you because I did this once with my car and I could never get it to idle the same. So what I did was take my car to a Rotary Expert mechanic and he dialed it all for me for about 40 bux.

Now when ever I have a messed up idle I just take my intercooler off and spray carb cleaner on all the vacumm lines, if all else fails use your cruze controll and put a nickle in between the pully and stoper, in the black box next to your charcol canister

asghar4

Thanks for the reply guys... I was beggining to think the seven brotherhood was slipping

I'm just "a lonely do it your self begginer" trying to get by...

Carb cleaner, huh? So I spray the 2 big vacuum oses connected to the intercooler? any other vacuum lines? all the other ones are small and under the throttle body.

A nickel in the cruise cable pulley sounds like a good "temp" fix but wouldn't cause your engine to flood everytime you turn your car on? or somthing like that...

I'll try those and see what happens. Any other permanent 'fix' suggestions would really be helpful.

Thanks,
Asghar

RotorJoe

My first gen 13b ran like this once. I adjusted every thing you did. Did just as the book said and had the same problem (had the light bulds working but not with the DMM) I finaly gave up and took it to a rotary shop. The adjustments they did helped, but they pointed to my throttle body plates being stuck or the linkage that connects to the throttle plates is gitting stuck or a sensor. Tried greesing it on the car, no luck. I picked up a used throttle body from another SE (1985 GSLSE 13b). That helped out soo much. Cold idle problems went away. Started fine, and ran great. I still have a small problem with keeping the RPMs steady (with the car under no load, not in gear and not moving), with my foot steady on the gas, it jumps from 2000-2500 rpm but once I go passed 3000 it does not happen. It does not happen in gear driving. I then took it back to the shop and now they are stating that is is a sensor coming off the throttle body. I not sure what to thinlk any more. I know the throttle body plates were not working right. Whether they were stuck or clodded with carbon deposits, I don't know. A used CLEAN one worked great. Most to all issues went away. Still can not get TPS to keep lights on. That is why the shop thinks its a sensor.

RotorJoe

p.s. try taking off the rubber air intake tube that connects to the trottle body. Spray a **** load of carb cleanner in there. Car will not run with that removed so move the throttle plates your self. after you put the intake back on it will start like it is flooded, so crank it. This did not help me but it might help you. Akso spary some lube on the external throttle linkage, and work it in. I fthe plates are stuck it might help. A good shop should be able to help point you in a more direct line of attack.

asghar4

I had taken off my throttle body and left it off for 2 weeks while I was working on my injectors, so the plates might be stuck from lack of lubrication / sitting.
I would put on another throttle body but I don't have the money to buy a new one and its hard to find a used one in the IL area. There is only one RX-7 shop in the area "A-Spec tunning" but they just opened up. I made an appt and it'll be 3 - 4 weeks for them to see me.

I have a TII so there's no rubber intake tube going to the throttle body. So that won't work...

I'll try the lube on the external throttle linkage. Thanks for the help.


Asghar

asghar4

Thanks Evilrotor

asghar4

Oh yeah, I don't know if this is attributed to the problem but, my car starts without having to press the clutch down.

I read some posts about the cluth sensor or somthing like that.

RotorJoe

my clutch has to be depressed to start. I think that is a different circuit/part of the engine then what we are talking about. The rubber hose/tube is the part on my N/A that hooks directly to the trottle body. You have a turbo two so find the throtle body inlet and try to spray carb cleaner/ EFI cleaner into it. When you fine it it should be looking into the trottle body trottle plates. You will be able to open them by pushing the throttle down to the floor or pulling on the trotttle cable.

Juan

iTrader: (28)

Have you double checked for any vacuum leaks? My car did that and it was a vacuum leak.

Maxthe7man

I have never adjusted my tps via kohms???, only volts as per the factory manual, in fact I have never heard of doing that way, and you should have only 1 light on, so find the TPS faq online, download it and try that again..
Yes, find all vacuum leaks.
Plug your meter into the o2 sensor output, and set the idle mixture screw so it reads about 750-850 millvolts. set your idle speed, then, check your timing at 750 rpm, set the timing, and reset the idle speed if you have to, check the trailing as well, if the trailing ignition is showing up at the same mark as the leading, your tps is still whacked, the trailing ignition will not give you your split on the red mark until the tps is set correctly, check for any airleaks between maf meter and the throttle plates, make sure everything is plugged, air temp sensor, coolant sensors, yada yada yada.. Max

BlackRx7

what you need to do is find a 2 in diameter hose so you can bypass the intercooler, you'll also need to small hoses, one for the bac, and the other for the boost senser, just plug those 2 smaller hoses into the bigger one, use tap glue what ever, this way you can run your car and spray crab cleaner on all the vacumm lines plus you can see if your throttle is operating right,

I did this and sprayed carb clean all around and found 2 vaccumm line that had "poped off" hope this helps

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

psuedo

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i mean pseudo, typing sucks.

asghar4

Maxthe7man, the kohm's thing I was talking about was from the directions I found in the RX-7 manual. I'm probably talking about the same thing you are but screwed up the terminology.

I checked the vacuum leaks but will double check it with carb cleaner, since that seems to be the best way.

Quote:
---------------
by Maxthe7man
Plug your meter into the o2 sensor output, and set the idle mixture screw so it reads about 750-850 millvolts. set your idle speed, then, check your timing at 750 rpm, set the timing, and reset the idle speed if you have to, check the trailing as well, if the trailing ignition is showing up at the same mark as the leading, your tps is still whacked, the trailing ignition will not give you your split on the red mark until the tps is set correctly
--------------

ok, i followed you until you said "set your idle speed". How do I set it? How do I check set "timing, trailing, leading" ?? I don't understand the terminology "split on the red mark ".

Sorry if those are stupid Questions, but can you explain a little further w/ details?

Thanks,
Asghar

asghar4

BlackRx7, there are two big hoses on the intercooler, which one should I attach the 2 inch diameter pipe to? And what do I do with the other big hose, leave it open?
The two smaller hoses your talking baout are the ones that plug into the inter cooler, right?

Thanks for the help in advance,

Asghar