Frothy oil/Chocolate milk coolant.....
03-15-05, 08:46 PM
#1
Frothy oil/Chocolate milk coolant.....
Thank god I knew what I was getting into when I had my friend buy this car.....
1986 GXL. 112k and it looks like the motor has been cracked open before....
The car has been sitting for 5 years so I am not quite sure if thats coolant or years of condensation for the oil filler neck.
And the brown water has no oil consistancy, its more like muddy water. I think that the last owner ran out of water in the country and filled up at a local stream called mud creek...
1986 GXL. 112k and it looks like the motor has been cracked open before....
The car has been sitting for 5 years so I am not quite sure if thats coolant or years of condensation for the oil filler neck.
And the brown water has no oil consistancy, its more like muddy water. I think that the last owner ran out of water in the country and filled up at a local stream called mud creek...
Last edited by The Spyder; 03-15-05 at 09:12 PM.
03-15-05, 09:05 PM
#4
Motor runs..... well it started on 5yr old plus gas then started to spray it from the secondary fuel rail banjo bolt. So It smoked just a little bit before I shut it off, but for a car thats been sitting for so long I expect it to smoke a little.
03-15-05, 11:32 PM
#7
Nurse I need 1300cc's NOW
the stuff in the oil filler is normal. and the oil actually doesnt look to bad,.. for 5 year old oil. i think its ok.. but if you plan on running that car.. change all the fluids and do a full tune up before really running it
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03-16-05, 12:12 AM
#8
Yep I pulled the dipstick and its clean as a whistle, even the oil looked pretty new. I will give the car a COMPLETE cleanup tommorow and see how she runs!
Oh god I havent even show you guys the best part!!
The thermostart housing snapped a bolt or 2 it looks.... so they CHAINED it on and like used TAR to seal it. Even left me a socket :p.
I will get a better picture tommorow before I fix it.
Oh god I havent even show you guys the best part!!
The thermostart housing snapped a bolt or 2 it looks.... so they CHAINED it on and like used TAR to seal it. Even left me a socket :p.
I will get a better picture tommorow before I fix it.
03-16-05, 08:53 AM
#10
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that whole engine looks like it was formed out of ****, after changing all the fluids spray some degreaser on there every 30 minutes for half the day then use a power washer.
03-16-05, 10:26 AM
#11
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That is just gross! I'd recommend a cooling system flush as offered by pretty much any midas/meineke place out there. Yes, I know what you're all thinking but the flushing machines they use are very very simple and they flush the entire cooling system under pressure until the the junk is gone. From what I see in that bucket, it would take a long long while to keep draining/filling at home until all that crap was out. They are usually around $30.00 for the service - not bad.
As for the degreaser suggestion, it's a good one. Try simple green - it's very powerful and won't stain/discolor anything in the engine bay. I'd dilute it 15% with water - you don't need it full strength and you'll get more mileage out of it. Make sure the engine bay is COLD when you do this. Cover the alternator and try not to get the UIM area wet as they are a lot of sensors around there. For these areas, a damp cloth and a solution of degreaser and water work well and are much safer.
As for the degreaser suggestion, it's a good one. Try simple green - it's very powerful and won't stain/discolor anything in the engine bay. I'd dilute it 15% with water - you don't need it full strength and you'll get more mileage out of it. Make sure the engine bay is COLD when you do this. Cover the alternator and try not to get the UIM area wet as they are a lot of sensors around there. For these areas, a damp cloth and a solution of degreaser and water work well and are much safer.
03-16-05, 10:44 AM
#12
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Man, that's just sad. I wanna see these pictures next to "after" pictures when you're done fixing it up.
I do like the custom grounding job they did on the filler neck! :-)
I do like the custom grounding job they did on the filler neck! :-)
03-16-05, 03:00 PM
#14
Originally Posted by jon88se
That is just gross! I'd recommend a cooling system flush as offered by pretty much any midas/meineke place out there. Yes, I know what you're all thinking but the flushing machines they use are very very simple and they flush the entire cooling system under pressure until the the junk is gone. From what I see in that bucket, it would take a long long while to keep draining/filling at home until all that crap was out. They are usually around $30.00 for the service - not bad.
As for the degreaser suggestion, it's a good one. Try simple green - it's very powerful and won't stain/discolor anything in the engine bay. I'd dilute it 15% with water - you don't need it full strength and you'll get more mileage out of it. Make sure the engine bay is COLD when you do this. Cover the alternator and try not to get the UIM area wet as they are a lot of sensors around there. For these areas, a damp cloth and a solution of degreaser and water work well and are much safer.
As for the degreaser suggestion, it's a good one. Try simple green - it's very powerful and won't stain/discolor anything in the engine bay. I'd dilute it 15% with water - you don't need it full strength and you'll get more mileage out of it. Make sure the engine bay is COLD when you do this. Cover the alternator and try not to get the UIM area wet as they are a lot of sensors around there. For these areas, a damp cloth and a solution of degreaser and water work well and are much safer.
03-16-05, 03:03 PM
#15
What ever the hell that **** is in the oil filler neck, its organic and slimy.... I found it in the overflow resivor tank around the top.
I honestly think he filled it up at a creek. The car no longer smokes after running it for 5 minutes, it runs and idles great, I just need to fix the tranny before It can be driven.
I honestly think he filled it up at a creek. The car no longer smokes after running it for 5 minutes, it runs and idles great, I just need to fix the tranny before It can be driven.
03-16-05, 04:24 PM
#19
Simple green, a pressure washer, carb cleaner for the really bad baked on stuff, and a wire wheel on the intakes/aluinum parts to clean them up. It still looks the same 6 months later too.
I completly strip the engine bay of ANYTHING electrical thats not sealed. (Coils, alternator, AFM, fuel pump relays, TPS, battery.) I use about 1 bottle of concentrated simple green, soak the engine bay in it for ah hour, then go back, mist it down, then hit it with a pressure washer. Anything I miss or if its REALLY bad I whip out the scrub brush/rags and go over it again with. I then by hand go over all the electronics (alternator/coils) with a electronics safe parts cleaner and a clean rag.
Last steps are re assembly and using Meguires rubber/vinyl protectant for all the rubber surfaces.
Turns out like this every time
.
I completly strip the engine bay of ANYTHING electrical thats not sealed. (Coils, alternator, AFM, fuel pump relays, TPS, battery.) I use about 1 bottle of concentrated simple green, soak the engine bay in it for ah hour, then go back, mist it down, then hit it with a pressure washer. Anything I miss or if its REALLY bad I whip out the scrub brush/rags and go over it again with. I then by hand go over all the electronics (alternator/coils) with a electronics safe parts cleaner and a clean rag.
Last steps are re assembly and using Meguires rubber/vinyl protectant for all the rubber surfaces.
Turns out like this every time
.
