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Front tranny bearing's stuck on the shaft and cant pull it out.
been tearing down my transmission because of a noise I heard, I made a previous post about it, Ive gotten it part way apart but now Im having to deal with these little shitz. I work at a chrysler dealership and they have an account with ShopKeyPro.com which has plenty of information on how to pull this apart.
SO, from what I've seen and been told, what is SUPPOSED to happen is I am supposed to leave those big snap rings in and use a bearing puller to pull the bearing out using the snap rings as leverage. Problem with that is the bearings are seized against the shaft and the snap rings keep giving way and bending, forcing the fingers out. and this issnt just for the input shaft either, this is for practically all of them, the only one I havent tried is the rear countershaft bearing which I cant get to at the moment but I assume its the same.
I found a few forum posts about it but their all from 09 or 2010 and all the links to the write-ups mentioned are dead. I think I could put a torch to it to heat it up and see if that does it but I doubt it will be enough. any thoughts?
I mentioned this in your other post about having the correct bearing puller. Take a look at the one pictured in the S5 FSM, Manual Turbo Transmission, pages J2-20 and J2-21 . You need a long puller with 90-degree jaws that pull straight out. If you use a regular bearing puller, it will pop off every time without fail until it bends those rings and you're up a brown smelly creek. Those rings are what set the depth of the bearings, and your shims are right behind them. If you get to carried away here, clearances will be out and the gear teeth will eat each other after you reassemble. I ended up having to cobble together my own puller. You will need to make a way for the jaws to squeeze in towards the shaft. In the picture, you will also note that the jaws don't have extra links. It is a pivot bolt up at the cross-member, then solid all the way down to the jaw, which is 90-degree, or a bit smaller. Then you have a sliding cross piece to put pressure to hold the jaws together with bolts. Go to Tractor Supply, get some stock metal and make the rigid puller you need.
Those rings need to stay on the bearings, they're what make them come out straight. They aren't seized, its a very tight fit to keep them from slopping around. Once you get a puller that can squeeze tight and pull straight on them, they will come off. You are wanting to focus the most pulling force immediately at the edge of the bearing. The snap rings can handle much tensile force. They are there strictly to provide a shear stop for depthing and replacement. Straight axial force is what you need.
Also, you'll need to pull bearings off both top and bottom shafts before you are able to wiggle anything out of the "lunchbox."
I mentioned this in your other post about having the correct bearing puller. Take a look at the one pictured in the S5 FSM, Manual Turbo Transmission, pages J2-20 and J2-21 . You need a long puller with 90-degree jaws that pull straight out. If you use a regular bearing puller, it will pop off every time without fail until it bends those rings and you're up a brown smelly creek. Those rings are what set the depth of the bearings, and your shims are right behind them. If you get to carried away here, clearances will be out and the gear teeth will eat each other after you reassemble. I ended up having to cobble together my own puller. You will need to make a way for the jaws to squeeze in towards the shaft. In the picture, you will also note that the jaws don't have extra links. It is a pivot bolt up at the cross-member, then solid all the way down to the jaw, which is 90-degree, or a bit smaller. Then you have a sliding cross piece to put pressure to hold the jaws together with bolts. Go to Tractor Supply, get some stock metal and make the rigid puller you need.
Those rings need to stay on the bearings, they're what make them come out straight. They aren't seized, its a very tight fit to keep them from slopping around. Once you get a puller that can squeeze tight and pull straight on them, they will come off. You are wanting to focus the most pulling force immediately at the edge of the bearing. The snap rings can handle much tensile force. They are there strictly to provide a shear stop for depthing and replacement. Straight axial force is what you need.
Also, you'll need to pull bearings off both top and bottom shafts before you are able to wiggle anything out of the "lunchbox."
Best of luck
Most of the pullers I'm using are special pullers from Mopar. the one I'm using for the front bearing is like you described bends inward towards the shaft, it uses a large nut to adjust the finger width, only problem is it doesn't have that clamp to keep the fingers from popping out of place. Ill go through the tool room on Monday and see what I can dig up
I mentioned this in your other post about having the correct bearing puller. Take a look at the one pictured in the S5 FSM, Manual Turbo Transmission, pages J2-20 and J2-21 . You need a long puller with 90-degree jaws that pull straight out. If you use a regular bearing puller, it will pop off every time without fail until it bends those rings and you're up a brown smelly creek. Those rings are what set the depth of the bearings, and your shims are right behind them. If you get to carried away here, clearances will be out and the gear teeth will eat each other after you reassemble. I ended up having to cobble together my own puller. You will need to make a way for the jaws to squeeze in towards the shaft. In the picture, you will also note that the jaws don't have extra links. It is a pivot bolt up at the cross-member, then solid all the way down to the jaw, which is 90-degree, or a bit smaller. Then you have a sliding cross piece to put pressure to hold the jaws together with bolts. Go to Tractor Supply, get some stock metal and make the rigid puller you need.
Those rings need to stay on the bearings, they're what make them come out straight. They aren't seized, its a very tight fit to keep them from slopping around. Once you get a puller that can squeeze tight and pull straight on them, they will come off. You are wanting to focus the most pulling force immediately at the edge of the bearing. The snap rings can handle much tensile force. They are there strictly to provide a shear stop for depthing and replacement. Straight axial force is what you need.
Also, you'll need to pull bearings off both top and bottom shafts before you are able to wiggle anything out of the "lunchbox."
Best of luck
yea even with a tool like what you described its still not coming out. Im taking it over to a transmission shop I used to work at a while back to see if they cant get it out. additionally, ive gotten to the point where I need to remove that large lock nut behind the 5th/reverse shifter sleeve, any idea how I get that out?
EDIT: figured it out lol. hammer and a tapered punch kept it mostly in tact but I think it would be a safe bet to replace it anyways
Cut the socket in half and weld the 2 pc to both end of the pipe to make a long socket.
I also wasn't able to get the front input shaft bearing out with it in the case, I was able to remove the countershaft bearings and move the countershaft out of the way enough to slip the input shaft and bearing out of the case. Then remove the input shaft bearing with your typical bearing puller.
12-04-21, 03:20 PM
