Front Bumper and Fender Removal
03-08-12, 12:22 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: California
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
damn i did that but like twice as hard, now i have some frame damage, the car was only 1000 bucks so i really dont wanna swap engine and what not into a new shell, think it would be alright if i just bent the frame out? i dont give a **** about looks or if i can drive the car hard anymore, just wanna get it on the road!
03-08-12, 01:16 PM
#28
lite rotary = easy push
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Whitby
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's completely unnecessary.
The four studs/nuts that hold each side of the nose to the fender aren't really that difficult to get to once you know where they are and can be prepped to make future removal quite simple.
BTW, the very top nut is best accessed by raising the headlights and removing the plastic surrounds. A short 1/4" drive ratchet can then be used from inside the headlight opening to get that last nut.
With the front bumper off, run a 6mm die over the studs to clean them up.
Before installing, slather the studs with anti-seize and finally, once the nuts are installed, slide a piece of tubing over the remaining exposed threads to protect them.
The problem people have is not that the nuts are so hard to get to, because they really aren't, it's the rust/grit that freezes the nuts on the studs.
Prepped as above, that problem goes away.
The four studs/nuts that hold each side of the nose to the fender aren't really that difficult to get to once you know where they are and can be prepped to make future removal quite simple.
BTW, the very top nut is best accessed by raising the headlights and removing the plastic surrounds. A short 1/4" drive ratchet can then be used from inside the headlight opening to get that last nut.
With the front bumper off, run a 6mm die over the studs to clean them up.
Before installing, slather the studs with anti-seize and finally, once the nuts are installed, slide a piece of tubing over the remaining exposed threads to protect them.
The problem people have is not that the nuts are so hard to get to, because they really aren't, it's the rust/grit that freezes the nuts on the studs.
Prepped as above, that problem goes away.
Clokker thats all great advice ..... I would also recommend replacing the oem bolts with stainless steel ones that are slightly shorter that way less of the bolt is protruding out. And anti sieze goes on all of my bolts before re install just a good practice to get into.
