Fresh Rebuild Won't Start
04-19-07, 04:09 PM
#1
Rotor Head
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Fresh Rebuild Won't Start
Just dropped a rebuilt s5 in my 91. Removed rats nest prior to install. I have spark, tested all components and have a visual spark as well, have gas as indicated by wet plugs and the puff of air gas mixture with plugs out, and of course compression is good. battery has a good charge so engine is turning over fast enough. The basics are there, but not one puff of smoke or kick while cranking. Tested and positioned crank angle to specs. No vacuum leaks........ The only emission I left plugged in and working is the BAC valve and hoses.
What gives????
What gives????
04-19-07, 07:01 PM
#3
yup. pull start it. and even though you have a brand new rebuild.. you wont have good compression for a few hundred miles. thats why its not starting and flooding. gotta get a few rebuilds under your belt before they will fire on the first try like mine haha! anyway good luck.
04-19-07, 07:02 PM
#4
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yeah i think its flooded too....my friend just rebuilt mine and it took 2 days to start.....also u might want to check the timing too.... my homie was messing wit it too....
04-19-07, 11:11 PM
#7
Senior Member
Id make sure timming is correct, with a timming light while cranking
when you visually checked spark did you ground the plug to the body or engine.... make sure the engine is grounded and you can ground the plug off the block and have spark
my rebuild started up instantly once i had fixed one retarded overlook
when you visually checked spark did you ground the plug to the body or engine.... make sure the engine is grounded and you can ground the plug off the block and have spark
my rebuild started up instantly once i had fixed one retarded overlook
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04-20-07, 12:43 AM
#9
i just put in my rebuild last weekend and i know how you feel. it was tough to start at first. it took a lot of cranking for me, then my friend heard the coolant buzzer and shut it off and i yelled at him! of course it wouldn't start again and i had to use 20-50 in the spark plug holes. so far i have 135 miles on my rebuild and it is getting better with the hard starts. once in a while it will flood. make sure you have extra plugs and a new set of wires, makes a huge difference. just keep at it and double check everything.
04-20-07, 04:13 PM
#11
HAILERS
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Its' flooded. Disable the fuel pump. Spray starter fluid in the air filter for no more than two to three seconds. Go start the car with your foot to the floor.
Prior to that, reinstall the cas. Put the pulley marks opposite the fixed pointer.
Align the marks on the bottom of the cas and then install it.
THEN LOOK at the jpg I attached.
Rotate the body of the cas til the pointer is cutting across the CORNER of the black coil. I made one red mark to show the pointer and another to show where you want that pointer to be opposite.
If you do that, then the timing will easily be within five degrees of being RIGHT.
So do that and the starter fluid (please, no carb cleaner bs) and no more than maybe two seconds of spray in the air filter. Start the engine.
Don't forget to disable the fuel pump. Pulling EGI fuses is NOT the same thing. Pull the plug off the pump.
We assume you have NO air leaks and put the plug on the afm/all ECU plugs are on the ECU/no hoses left off like the boost line to the brake booster/ the air feed line is on the bac etc.
Prior to that, reinstall the cas. Put the pulley marks opposite the fixed pointer.
Align the marks on the bottom of the cas and then install it.
THEN LOOK at the jpg I attached.
Rotate the body of the cas til the pointer is cutting across the CORNER of the black coil. I made one red mark to show the pointer and another to show where you want that pointer to be opposite.
If you do that, then the timing will easily be within five degrees of being RIGHT.
So do that and the starter fluid (please, no carb cleaner bs) and no more than maybe two seconds of spray in the air filter. Start the engine.
Don't forget to disable the fuel pump. Pulling EGI fuses is NOT the same thing. Pull the plug off the pump.
We assume you have NO air leaks and put the plug on the afm/all ECU plugs are on the ECU/no hoses left off like the boost line to the brake booster/ the air feed line is on the bac etc.
Last edited by HAILERS; 04-20-07 at 04:25 PM.
12-01-07, 03:22 AM
#12
Nekurd
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Hailers, when you said "Put the pulley marks opposite the fixed pointer." you mean the yellow line on the pulley will be 180* from the pointer thing on the engine?
And what does MMO stand for?
And what does MMO stand for?
12-01-07, 08:25 AM
#13
HAILERS
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No. I mean do like the FSM says. Turn the pulley til the yellow mark is inline (opposite) the fixed pin on the front cover. Then turn the CAS's body til the two pointers (on top of the rotor IN the CAS) are where they are shown in the picture.
MMO is a product that is oily and the company name is Marvel Mystery Oil, I think. Common motor oil is just fine. I've never bought MMO and know nothing about it. Much like I've never bought STP motor honey etc.
Now I've NEVER done the bit where you squirt oil in the rotor chambers thru the sparkplug holes (thru the carb on a 82, yes) but if I were inclined to do that, then remove the top two plugs. Buy a foot or two of clear vinyl tubing from the store for a half buck. You'll find that you can actually screw that tubing into the sparkplug holes (I bought 1/2" OD for a different project). Just screw it in a few threads in the hole. It'll seal itself.
Then pour/squirt some common motor oil in the tube and turn the crank while doing so, so all three rotor chambers will get some oil.
This act helps build compression when you first try to start the engine. If the coils etc are good and the fuel is being injected, then thing should start or at least try to start.
MMO is a product that is oily and the company name is Marvel Mystery Oil, I think. Common motor oil is just fine. I've never bought MMO and know nothing about it. Much like I've never bought STP motor honey etc.
Now I've NEVER done the bit where you squirt oil in the rotor chambers thru the sparkplug holes (thru the carb on a 82, yes) but if I were inclined to do that, then remove the top two plugs. Buy a foot or two of clear vinyl tubing from the store for a half buck. You'll find that you can actually screw that tubing into the sparkplug holes (I bought 1/2" OD for a different project). Just screw it in a few threads in the hole. It'll seal itself.
Then pour/squirt some common motor oil in the tube and turn the crank while doing so, so all three rotor chambers will get some oil.
This act helps build compression when you first try to start the engine. If the coils etc are good and the fuel is being injected, then thing should start or at least try to start.
12-01-07, 09:47 PM
#14
Nekurd
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Hailers, you are awsome. I read pretty much every "wont start" posts and it is very informative. It seems like in my situation I can hear clicking from my injectors and I "think" my plugs, which I need to double check. I can hear the fuel pump turning on but there is no fuel on the plugs at all. Instead it looks like drops of very very very very thin silicone, which I can get off no problem since it kind of feels like oil. Help?
12-02-07, 03:00 AM
#17
Smoke moar
No. I mean do like the FSM says. Turn the pulley til the yellow mark is inline (opposite) the fixed pin on the front cover. Then turn the CAS's body til the two pointers (on top of the rotor IN the CAS) are where they are shown in the picture.
MMO is a product that is oily and the company name is Marvel Mystery Oil, I think. Common motor oil is just fine. I've never bought MMO and know nothing about it. Much like I've never bought STP motor honey etc.
Now I've NEVER done the bit where you squirt oil in the rotor chambers thru the sparkplug holes (thru the carb on a 82, yes) but if I were inclined to do that, then remove the top two plugs. Buy a foot or two of clear vinyl tubing from the store for a half buck. You'll find that you can actually screw that tubing into the sparkplug holes (I bought 1/2" OD for a different project). Just screw it in a few threads in the hole. It'll seal itself.
Then pour/squirt some common motor oil in the tube and turn the crank while doing so, so all three rotor chambers will get some oil.
This act helps build compression when you first try to start the engine. If the coils etc are good and the fuel is being injected, then thing should start or at least try to start.
MMO is a product that is oily and the company name is Marvel Mystery Oil, I think. Common motor oil is just fine. I've never bought MMO and know nothing about it. Much like I've never bought STP motor honey etc.
Now I've NEVER done the bit where you squirt oil in the rotor chambers thru the sparkplug holes (thru the carb on a 82, yes) but if I were inclined to do that, then remove the top two plugs. Buy a foot or two of clear vinyl tubing from the store for a half buck. You'll find that you can actually screw that tubing into the sparkplug holes (I bought 1/2" OD for a different project). Just screw it in a few threads in the hole. It'll seal itself.
Then pour/squirt some common motor oil in the tube and turn the crank while doing so, so all three rotor chambers will get some oil.
This act helps build compression when you first try to start the engine. If the coils etc are good and the fuel is being injected, then thing should start or at least try to start.
yup atf, it was messy but i got each bottom spark plug, took a bit of figuring out.
I put in the new plugs (Even with the atf right there a tid bit came out) cleaned everything off, started first shot (Not a rebuild) but yes it gives good compression for the first start, smokes quite a bit tho.
12-02-07, 02:48 PM
#18
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yup atf, it was messy but i got each bottom spark plug, took a bit of figuring out.
I put in the new plugs (Even with the atf right there a tid bit came out) cleaned everything off, started first shot (Not a rebuild) but yes it gives good compression for the first start, smokes quite a bit tho.
I put in the new plugs (Even with the atf right there a tid bit came out) cleaned everything off, started first shot (Not a rebuild) but yes it gives good compression for the first start, smokes quite a bit tho.
12-02-07, 03:14 PM
#19
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MMO mean's marvel mystery oil it works great on start up's. im not sure on 2nd gens but im pretty familar with 1st gens it takes about 1500 miles before a new engine's apex seals get the best compression if useing used housings.
12-02-07, 03:18 PM
#20
Smoke moar
12-02-07, 03:22 PM
#21
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yup atf, it was messy but i got each bottom spark plug, took a bit of figuring out.
I put in the new plugs (Even with the atf right there a tid bit came out) cleaned everything off, started first shot (Not a rebuild) but yes it gives good compression for the first start, smokes quite a bit tho.
I put in the new plugs (Even with the atf right there a tid bit came out) cleaned everything off, started first shot (Not a rebuild) but yes it gives good compression for the first start, smokes quite a bit tho.
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