2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

For forum member. BAC Valve Electrical Question

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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 09:05 AM
  #26  
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No. The bac has 12c on it all the time the key is to ON. What makes it work is the ECU putting a ground on it. In the case of a BAC the ground is pulsed on/off 120hz
I understand that, but when I probed the L/G wire with on lead of the DMM and put the other lead on a wire with 12v, the meter would say 12v. So this tell me that the L/G wire is getting grounded, just not pulsing, seems to be a constant ground.

If im not understanding correctly just say so and I will go with that
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #27  
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Maybe I missed it...but did the OP try the BAC with the engine running, warm, and unplugging it?

BTW, my BAC valve wasn't in spec. as far as resistance either, but it works just fine. Before replacing the ECU check to make sure you have good continuity between the BAC and ECU.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 10:52 AM
  #28  
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Just replace the transistor.

Or just remove the bac and leave the pug on. Have someone turn the ignition key to ON. You won't find any movement because the ECU isn't putting a gnd on the wire. It ain't a working. The transistor that is.
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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 09:34 PM
  #29  
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Just replace the transistor.

Or just remove the bac and leave the pug on. Have someone turn the ignition key to ON. You won't find any movement because the ECU isn't putting a gnd on the wire. It ain't a working. The transistor that is.
haha, sounds good to me. Sorry for all the questions but just trying to make sence of how the ECU works it.

I appriciate all the help HAILERS.

Maybe I missed it...but did the OP try the BAC with the engine running, warm, and unplugging it?
Yup I did, I actually had it venting to the atmosphere so if it was working, well it would do the opposite of what it should do, make the engine run worse. I would also be able to hear the vacuum.

BTW, my BAC valve wasn't in spec. as far as resistance either, but it works just fine. Before replacing the ECU check to make sure you have good continuity between the BAC and ECU.
Im going to be checking everything and thanks for the tip.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 03:35 PM
  #30  
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I got it working!

I remembered I had a spare ECU so I swapped that in and got the BACV working. I love it!

I did some regrounding on the 4 grounds on the ECU a pins, 2C, 2R, 3A, 3G, but the hesitation is still there. Im going to see if I can get the grounds to be a little better but any other suggestions on the 3800 rpm hesitation point?
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 04:08 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by RotaMan99
I got it working!

I remembered I had a spare ECU so I swapped that in and got the BACV working. I love it!

I did some regrounding on the 4 grounds on the ECU a pins, 2C, 2R, 3A, 3G, but the hesitation is still there. Im going to see if I can get the grounds to be a little better but any other suggestions on the 3800 rpm hesitation point?
As far as the 3800 hesitation I've no other advice than those gnd wires. Several folk have had good results doing that, such as NZCONVERTIBEL, HAILERS RXSTR etc.

I can remove that EXTRA gnd and make the hesitation come right back in a heartbeat. Reinstall that EXTRA gnd and it goes away in a heartbeat.

Making sure there is a orifice in the boost sensor hose MIGHT help IF it is missing.

Nope. Out of ideas on this. Someone else can give you the answer I reckon.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 06:23 PM
  #32  
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Ah thanks for reminding me about the boost sensor. I don't have that small restrictor pill in there. I need to order that.

I will also check the continuity of the grn wires to the actuall pin to see if maybe my soldering job isn't the greatest. It was kinda hard to get the solder to stick to the pin, so I may have to redo them.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 07:00 PM
  #33  
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Use soldering flux at Radio Shack or??? paste in a can from Radio Shack.
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