That's the same guy I got my fmic from, what size and type did u get from him? He does great work, that's for sure.

I ended up buying the 25x7x2.7 tube/fin - bar/plate hybrid for 300.

 

88integraLS,
Is this JRPERROT some guy on ebay or does he have a website?

 

He makes intercoolers and sells them in ebay, his handle there is jrprp or something like that, his endtanks always look very simple but he only uses good cores, sometimes spearco and most of the time they are other brands that are what he feels is the best for the price. I don't know if he has a website but I'm very happy with the ic I picked up, he uses one just like it and a little taller on one of his own cars.

 

The AC is GONE!!!! thats were the pipe runs

 

1. the IC is 26x8x3 including the tanks... tanks are 45'd on the bottom and exit the top rear of the tank

2. NO cutting of the frame.. the IC sits inside the frame rails right at the front.

Things i had to cut.. the front face of the bracket the overflow tank sits on (the IC rests under the bracket and the tabs on the top poke through two slits i cut into the front of the bracket I cut two holes on the metal to eather side of the radiator for the pipes to go through. And i dilled and tapped the frame rails to bolt the bottom tabs on the IC to it (using rubber grommets between the tabs and the frame) and I had to shorten the nubs on the bottom of the overflow tank cause the IC takes up the space where they go through the bracket.. thats it

3 Power Steering... No AC.. the pipes go through where the AC used to sit. AC is for pussies, lard assed SUV's and family crabunzas (soccer mom cars)..... and if someone takes offense to that.. to freakin bad... our cars are hard enough to keep cool without throwing a big assed heat exchanger in front of the radiator, add to that a FMIC.. you're lookin for trouble. You want performance, I say the A/C will only cause problems oncec you start looking at 350+hp numbers.

4 I cut the 180's in half to make two 90's.... then i made "S" bends by turning the cuts 180 on themselves and then grinding the inner or outer endges down to get the proper shape i was looking for. they were then welded right in the middle. i also had beads welded on the ends of the pipe sections so that the hoses wouldn't pop off The easiest piece was from the turbo to the first juncture.. its just a 90' with a long leg!!!

The piecec that comes from the T/B down was the hardest.. it 90's down from the T/B then is welded to another 90 that angles to the front of the car, ,and that piece has a 6 inch piece of straight welded to it.

the silicone tubing holds the different sections of pipe together just like any other kit

you can see some of the welds in the pictures, but most are hidden )pretty much by accident) on the pic where i'm holding up the CF shroud, the weld would be right under the radiator brace

 

The factory pan isn't as efficient as higgis design.. it lets air out through the vent holes and such.. ever see the foam under the radiator and oil cooler???? thats designed to keep the air from slidin under the cooler and rad. If that foam isn't there, the air isn't going to go through the rad or the cooler.. if its missing on your car.. go to walmart and get the thick air conditioner seal foam and use that!

 

jrprp11@netzero.com Thats his email... contact him directly

 

Yeah, it heatsoaks.. but its not all THAT bad.. 2 problems with getting aluminum pipe...

1) It is retardedly expensive..

2) I don't know anybody that TIG welds,,,, that last thing i had to get TIG welded (notice the shortened neck on the Koyo???) cost me 50 bucks for one little weld!!!!

Steel will do just fine at least until the winter when the car comes off the road and i can put the the GAS money towards the pipes!!

besides... even if you wrap the pipes with Thermotec shield wrap, you'll still have less that half the cost of aluminum pipes!!!!

 

yeah i had a little pipe made to mount a greddy BOV into the stock location. it was like 100 bucks for that damn little thing. but damn, tig welds are so much prettier

 

higgi you can make alot of money off of those things man... you sell all that stuff that nobody really NEEDS like the dual alt pulley (too many people with airpump, etc,) the FMIC elbow (only for people who have fmics) and such... i bet atleast 50% of this forum is missing that stock undertray/belly.

everybody needs one and thats alot of measuring, cutting, bracket making, etc for the average joe...

 

higgi, if i remember you have the re front end and i also have 1, i also would love that pan,

man you make a lotta nice ****

let me know about the pan cause ill be sending you that money within a week and i would love 1 of those pans thrown in with my shipment

 

i am sorry, but as i stated already, shipping stuff like this pan is more trouble and money than u could imagine (regular post will not take it because it would be oversized and Fedex/UPS or DHL prices for overseas shipment are big out of mind........to ship koyo radiator they asked $600 ( who of you would pay $600 for shipping $300 part???))

 

Allright.... Man HiGGi is right, you guys are LAZY (or have no access whatsoever to any type of metal tools!!!!!!!!!!) I know a guy with a sheet metal folder.... If nobody else gets on that pan, I'll make one this winter and put the templates out on my website and figure a price for prefabbed ones.. Problem is... My oil cooler has been moved from the stock location as well.... I'll have to use a different car... maybe i'll have another project car by then!!

Higgi... I'm assuming that with this pan, the only parts of the engine bay that are enclosed are from the radiator forward.. right? everything behind the radiator is open to the ground? And what gauge sheet aluminum did ya use??

 

1.5mm aluminum

front from radiator is covered, right.....

 

I'm having trouble contacting jrperrot by email, does anyone have a phone number?

 

search for intercooler on ebay, jrprp312 or something is his ID.

 

nice

 

I tried that, hes not responding to any emails I send him through ebay or at jrprp11@netzero.com

Makes me wary of buying anything from him, has anyone else had problems?

 

I'd buy it, no questions asked.

 

I don't have a number for JR... But be patient, it may take him a couple of days to get back to ya, especially if he has a lot of work in the shop.

As for numbers..... the car ran 109MPH launching at 7PSI and Switching to 14 PSI after launch. (my tires and shocks SUCK) The Great thing is that even after the steel pipes heatsoaked while in the staging lanes and the air temp on the line was 150 Degrees, it started cooling as soon as i reved it to 4 grand on the line, by the time I hit 7 PSI at 5K the air temp was down to 125!!!!!!! in second gear at 14 PSI the Air temp was 117 and in third gear at 14 PSI the air temp was 114!! This was at Cecil County MD with 85 Degree ambient air temps. These are numbers from the Haltech Datalog, the temp sensor may be a bit slow on the cool down as things happen pretty fast in first gear.


The IC Works!!!!!! and it works well!