Ni5mo180SX

Well the new motors been running great but I still have two problems which I cant figure out.

One is that it floods if I turn it off after its warmed up and try to turn it on again within approx. 20 mins. I have to pull the fuse and crank for it to fire up. Kind of odd as I had all the injectors cleaned by RC. One was leaking internally but was repaired by them. Not sure what could be causing this......

The other is I hear an odd knock type sound (not detenation) sounds like a belts whipping around at 650rpm. Its very light and I cant quite pin point it. Im just worried about it being a bearing? I did the thermal pellet mod using the fc3s.org pellet while the motor was out and had it lying on the flywheel so again, im not sure how that would be the case.

Well, hope this made sense. Thanks in advance guys!

Note: I dont know if the difficulty starting has to do with the complete removal of every piece of emissons equipment (all solenoids, BAC, etc) or if its fuel pump related?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Didn't forget to bolt down your engine mounts, did you?

Ni5mo180SX

lol yea pretty sure.

Blowtus

hows your bac valve? my t2 started flooding a while ago because the bac plug came a little loose and the bac valve stopped working.

Ni5mo180SX

I have no BAC valve lol.....

hypntyz7

for the hell of it, check compresion, a low compression engine will flood more and more, I dont care how clean the injectors are.

As for the rattling sound, check the tensioner pullies for a.c and p.s, i have seen ones with bad bearings make an odd rattling sound. take the belts off one by one and see what happens.

Ni5mo180SX

Thanks for the advice. I'll see what #'s I get.

Edit- Also I just realized I was a bit vague on the flooding. It only happens when the engines hot and if I try to turn it on within 10-15 mins of the last start. Anything before and after, no problems. Recently though, the problems become less and less frequent but I do have to hold full throttle for it to start each time. I havent tried off the throttle for a while.

Also, I dont have any accessories at all

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Mine will do the exact same thing, takes a bit of cranking & pedal play to get it to start. I think it's just due to the fact that I have no BAC, no emissions, no vack rack, no PS/AC, and the TB mod

Ni5mo180SX

Heh, same here. No BAC, emissions, solenoid rack, manual rack, no a/c and TB mod

SureShot

How about the water thermo switch on the radiator.
If it is not connected & working, the ECU assumes a cold engine needs extra fuel at startup, even on a warm engine.

This is not an issue on an S5, but it could be on your S4.

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

My friend Matt (BlackSunshine) had a bad flooding problem on startup. I told him to try re-running his FPR's vac line directly to the nipple the FPR solinoid (on the vac rack) went to on the UIM, bypassing the FPR solinoid.

Mazda.. for some reason.. thought that FULL FUEL PRESSURE is required for your car whenever you start it warm; that is the function of the FPR solinoid.

After he did, I don't think he's had a problem with his car flooding when it's warm since. Give it a shot.

mac_dad6

that didnt fix mine

SureShot

If the water temp switch (on the S4 radiator) is working, the ECU is supposed to go low fuel pressure on restart..

BrazHTM

If I cant get my car to start on the first try I just hold the pedal down for the second time. And if it's really flooded bad I have a fuel pump switch that I'll use. I'm guessing mine floods because the engine has 90k miles on it and is approaching needing a rebuild. But i haven't checked my BAC or any of that other stuff.

HAILERS

Let's see. The *Output Devices* page in the 89 manual, when talking about the BAC, shows that when cranking the engine cold...........LARGE QUANTITY OF AIR. As in the bac opens pretty wide at cranking cold and lets in a large quantity of air. Now if you don't have a BAC.......what will not happen?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

my car will start weird. I can get it to start the first time but after 2 sec of trying to start it i stop try'n. After about 1/2 second it catches and takes off. So basically i turn off the key and the engine is still moving and that is what starts my car (injector stop pumping).

My car also diesels for about 1-2 secs after i shut it off. My injectors are practically new.

When i rebuilt the engine it would start up normally and shut off normal. About 1k on the engine it started doing this. Instead of getting easier to start it got a bit harder

i have all emissions removed and tb done.

this doesn't bother me too much since i can start it on the first try but it's not how it's suppose to start

dr0x

I have none of that either with only 90psi on each rotor showing on comp tests (new motor, has 22 kilometers on it). My car starts on like the second or third crank and idles a tad low when cold, but requires no assistance.