rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

ok,

so i acquired a 89 t2. great car. good compression picks up nicely. im going over the car checking things out that i would like to address.


1-
going over small bumps and turning the steering in either direction creates popping noise from the middle and the passenger side between the middle of the car and passenger front tire.. i would assume bushings need replacement. when hunting down the sound from the steering. my findings are here.


ignore my annoying voice in the vid

i think since the plastic boot cover is damaged, dirt and crap got in this thing (shown in picture) known as the "steering gear box"? that's where i feel popping coming from. mind you have no play in steering before the tires react and on flat surface or hwy/fwy runs no issues. alignment is off to the right a bit if steering wheel is centered though.

so i guess my questions would be :

is the part i found more or less the right one to replace?

anyone done this before?

scale of difficulty maybe? lol


issue 2-
Idles low... i guess i would start off by listing whatever mods im aware of.
1- air box removed and replaced with APEXI Cone intake
2- 3 in turbo down pipe to 2 3/4 in custom exhaust with gutted cat and the old school rb mufflers.
3- Apexi SAFC already connected but memory wiped and not tuned. just gives me readings of A/F mix, throttle % and rpm. i have the the user manual for it but its all freaking greek to me so ive been doing a lot of reading. lol it states that at idle is between 500 and 600 when fully warmed up from cold start. which i think is low. it should be about 750 correct? ill have to worry about tuning it later i guess. unless this is part of the problem. also im not sure if this SAFC requires widebad o2 sensor or how to tell if i have one, but im sure gonna need one in the future when i upgrade this thing. i assume the SAFC is pretty bare minimal interms of engine management and control since i just monitors air and fuel. so i might want a haltec or Rtek. getting ahead of myself.....
any who.
symptoms are- at cold start and i mean COLD start like mildew first thing butt crack *** early in the morning cold start. Revs to the wonderful 3k for about 2 seconds then rpms slowly drops .. sputters then dies. start it up again 50/50 chance it will hold idle or just sputter and die. if i give it VERY little gas on the peddle during this cold start it holds around the 1.5k mark until it warms up then down to the 500-600 rpm range again.

second symptom.
this may be the way I personally drive but i have never had this issue on any other car. if im about to come to a stop light or stop sign. i generally hold the clutch down say from 3rd gear at about 2.5 - 2.8k rpm in case the light turns green or whatever. i guess depending on my speed the rpm will drop and the car will shut off while im still rolling in neutral if i come to a complete stop i just turn the key and back to life no issues to flooding no click click vroom, if im still rolling just pop the clutch and on she comes.

you can see here in this vid, after a quick step on the gas towards the end its like the "bounce back" idle doesn't really kick in as it should. forgive my poor term.

now, i think i know better than to eff around the that "million dollar screw" aka das TPS! at least not on a turbo. i can provide a reading of what the SAFC states the a/f ratio is if needed.

im thinking it could be electrical related or at least bat/alternator relate only because of some parallel issues ive noticed. like 1- wipers and sun roof dont work untill car has been driven for a bit and fully warmed up. also if car has been driven during the day and sat long enough to cool completely it will start up and hold idle. i dont think i should be too worried about it. but i thought id just post it and see what yall gurus say.

this last vid im posting is suppose to show how the engine shakes but my super uber cool smart phone has this feature to remove shaking lol..


there are a few other things but ill leave that for another time for now, these are my main two issues.

thanks in advance.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i would say you need a tie rod end, there is a ball joint under the boot, and actually you should get the boot too, dirt is bad in there.

idle looks fine to me? its supposed to be 750rpm, and it looks like that is about where yours is, and you can see the idle control "catch" and idle it down smoothly, so it looks like its working?

it is always a good idea to check the TPS, and maybe the timing as well, in fact the FSM has a page, in the engine section and in the front somewhere how to tune it up, and its all really easy simple stuff, and its worth doing if the car is new to you, or its just been 6 months, or something

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

it might be in that vid. but its not always like that. i think that vid is after a day of driving and its idling but it definatly is lower most of the time. it really hovers around 500-600 even the safc shows numbers below 750.. but till check the fsm as you suggested.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

yes but after you adjust the TPS, that may cure your idle problem if its going that low, easy and DIRT cheap to do if you have a voltmeter

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if you go over that FSM tune up thing, and its still doing it, its probably a vacuum leak, TID and bac valve hose are the most likely places

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

im going to go over the fsm i have a pdf of it. freak a pain finding the part to adjust tps and what not on it though no search enabled. lol

but here are some readings from the SAFC while i was driving for a bit. i think the SAFC could be whats throwing me off as it has no tuning.

in one of the vids i got on here, i wanted to point out that the safc shows a differnt rpm than the tach. so im not sure which is off. the tach or the safc..

difference in rpm readings here

cruising.


idling warmed up