2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Fixing headlight switch question...

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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 03:39 PM
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SuphaG's Avatar
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Fixing headlight switch question...

So I found out my running lights were not working and traced the problem back to a couple of lightbulb sockets corroding and the switch and wire being fried. I was wondering what I would have to do to fix the switch it self. Is it just take out old burnt up solder, cleanup and resolder the points of the contacts burned or is there more too it? I'm also going to replace the harness with one that isn't burnt and there's a picture below of the damage.
Attached Thumbnails Fixing headlight switch question...-hsburnt.jpg  
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 05:27 PM
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You will need to replace the plug on one that burnt. Unscrew the plug,then un-solder it from the board. The board looks still good.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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Hey Icemark, so you mean like remove the actual pin that is burnt right? If so, where can I find these plugs at? Radio Shack? Thanks!
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 02:21 PM
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No, not just the pin, the whole housing and all the pins is the plug...you'll need to get the plug from another switch. Amp/Tyco has not built that plug for 15 years.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 04:23 PM
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Beware, the harness from the headlight switch assembly and the dash harness has a history of high resistance at one pin due to poor crimping from manufacturer. Replace that harness too if any sign of burning or melting of insulation is present.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by JBrotor
Beware, the harness from the headlight switch assembly and the dash harness has a history of high resistance at one pin due to poor crimping from manufacturer. Replace that harness too if any sign of burning or melting of insulation is present.
No, the issue has absolutly nothing to do with the crimping of the connectors in the plug (which if you had read/searched before posting you would have known). as well if you had actually seen a burnt one, you would have known better than to post that).

As covered countless times, the failure is caused by overheating of the connector where it meets the pin. in most cases that is caused by either additional lights on the parking light circuit or poorly maintained bulb sockets. In about 10% of the cases it is caused by a overheating of the pin meeting the circuit board due to cold solder joints.

Poorly maintained sockets often are because corrosion has built up in the bulb socket from leaking seals on the light, or bulbs swapped out and no conductive grease is used. This failure happens much more commonly in areas of either high humidity or high rain/snow.

But it has absolutly nothing to do with the crimps on the wires in the plug. Who ever told you that didn't have a clue to what they were talking about.
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