About 4 weeks after digging into and about 4 months since it last ran my 87 T2 fired up and drove today for the first time.

The car had 129,556 on the original engine when I parked it with low compression on the rear rotor. I later found out that a OMP line snapped when I was replacing the injectors 3k miles before.

This was my first rebuild and I must say come out very well. The car runs smooth, dosen't leak and holds an idle at 1k. Start up is difficult at this point because it has about 10 miles on it. I am guessing after about 100-200 miles or so flooding won't be a problem.

Here is an overview of the engine rebuild.

87 T2 block
Mild intake streetport (free)
Mild exhaust streetport (free)
9.4 compression s4 N/A rotors (already had)
N/A rotor housings (already had)
-used, 150k miles (very good condition)
-modified for a coolant passage (free)
-removed diffusers (free)
SS omp lines ($94 ebay)
Silicone vacuum hose kit ($35 summit)
Rotary Aviation 2mm apex seals & springs ($187 RA)
New side seal springs, New FD corner seal springs, New corner seal plugs, thermal pellet, Engine-Exaust man gasket, Ex. Man.- Turbo gasket, pilot berring & seal, intake- engine gasket ($223 @ MT)
Rotary aviation internal gasket set ($157 RA)
grinding bits (~$25)
oil, coolant, ect (~$30)

The rebuild itself cost me a total of $749 and ~40-50 hours of my time. I spent alot of time modifiing and porting. I would guess half, 20-25 of those hours, I spent port the intake, exhaust, and removeing the diffusers from the N/A rotor housings.

What a good time I can't wait till this sucker is fully broken in. I can already tell its going to have some grunt down low because on the N/A rotors

I plan a doing a comp check soon.

Steve

 

A pic of the car and of the engine on the stand

 

That pic in your sig of the block with the housings. Im guessing they're so damn dirty with oil becuase of the broken OMP line?

Makes you wonder exactly when you started to get low compression due to the non lubricated seals... Was it 100km after, or 2000?

I've been asking alot of people this question, but what video did you use as a guideline for the rebuild, or did you just use the haynes?

thx

 

I am going to do same rebuild

 

is porting on your own hard??? what did you use to do it??? Are there streetport templates on the net??? Thanks. Oh good job by the way! I would love to rebuild my own engine.

 

Dont use the haynes manual. They leave out
some things. Dont remember what they were
but it frustrated me during my first rebuild.
Just remember one thing when you build
your engine, CLEAN and INSPECT everything.
I missed a rotor bearing on my first rebuild
and paid for it later.

 

Awesome! Sounds like a nice project...hey, I thought I was the only one w/ those rims on an FC (ADR Stage II, right?)

 

how does it run with those na rotors, it must be a quick little car.

 

Looks good. I'm curious about the low end also! What Turbo and IC are you going to be using with this engine? What about engine management? Just curious.

 

whats the diffuser? can you run n/a rotors without tuning? sounds like fun. good job

 

That is the block right after I pulled it. It was very dirty and I could see where the oil was burning off the block.

I noticed a big drop in power about 2000 miles after replaceing the injectors. compression dropped for 100 front/ 98 rear to 100 front/ 85 rear in that time.

I used the atkins video that my buddy Erik had.

 

I used the mazda trix templets that my buddy Erik had. the secondary ports fully ported, the primaries just a bit over stock.

 

Yeah, I bought them used and the guy said they were ADR Version II's. He may have been mistaken. Do you have a pic of yours?

 

I've heard running n/a rotors on turbo 13b takes precise tuning with ecu and had to be driven with gas thats higher oct. than 93...

 

It runs great with the N/A rotors! Very responsive down low. As of now it only has 40 miles on it so everyone will have to wait for a report on the top end.

rigth now it has the stock IC and turbo. Once broken in it will be running at 10psi. I was running 12psi before the rebuild. Only modifications to the fuel system is a FD fuel pump and rebuilt stock injectors.

I have a SAFCII and 2 890cc injectors to go in when I get a turbo and IC upgrade. Hopefully everything will be done this summer. I plan on a FMIC and a full turbo upgrade goal is 350-400 whp.

As of right now the car idles good at 900rpms and starts easy cold, and starts when warm amazingly.

 

The diffuser is a piece of metal in the exhaust port of the N/A rotor housings that SUCK! I hate them, pain in the *** to get out.

Tuning. I believe, and shall find out, that running N/A rotors at 10psi is perfectly safe with a healthy stock fuel system with an upgraded pump. I have heard many doing it before and I don't think it will be a problem.

 

Ok, well it was just my 2cents. I read about it from my japanese rx7 mag. They even used HKS F-con V-pro ECU to tune it and still had to use extreamly high oct. gas to run the car safely. Good luck!

 

Yep, ADR stage II - Once the car is painted, I'm gonna ditch 'em in favor of some Work Emotion CR Kai's or Volk Gram Lights 57S, 17X7.5 and 17X8.5.

Here are some snaps of the rims, I like how it's got a nice lip for a 7 inch rim.

 

Well, I hope they were just paranoid or running a big turbo and more boost.

10psi on the stock turbo isn't exactly extreem. I image that I will find the limits of the boosted N/A rotors when upgrading the turbo and go standalone.

 

Yeah, that is them. Mine are 18x7.5, I love the lip on them as well. I will have to wait to see how they fit and look when the car is lowered before I decide if I am going to replace them or not.

 

loooking gooood...you should get us a video of her running ;}

 

how much did it cost you????

 

The whole thing came in at ~$749 from my count on my first post. Other people looking to rebuild might need to buy things I didn't have to, porting templets, rebuild video, RTV, patorlium jelly, lock tight, cleaning supplies, ROTOR HOUSINGS!, ect..

I missed my car soooo much. I am going to have so much fun come spring time.

 

dude, Steve... YEEEEAAHHH (like Lil' Jon) Congratulations on the rebuild!

Now you need to come help me finish mine lol

Oh, BTW I got your message, I was snowboarding all day today.. PEACE

 

UPDATE!!! on Streetported, 9.4 compression T2

The motor is broken in! Right now it is hitting max boost of 9psi in third on a cold night. Making 6psi in first during the day.

The good:
-turbo lag, whats that?
-redline? umm, no. How do you remove the rev limiter? It just keeps pulling.
-flat torque curve, didn't know how nice that is till now.

The bad:
Umm, uh.... hummm. If I come up with something I'll let you know.

All I can say is wow. The T2 is MUCH faster at 9psi now than it was on stock ports adn rotors at 13psi.

I'll be looking at getting it dynoed and taken to the 1/4 soon.

Steve