j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

Great Job Aaron!!! Can't wait to see some vid's of this beast running.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There appear to be routing problems to your subnet. A trace to your IP dies after it leaves my gateway.

ddub

Sounds good. And yah, I've kinda noticed that the dremel wont do the job on engine porting. I used it to redo my intake manifold ports on the UIM, port my TB, and port my new LIM when I screwed up the old one. it was definately a lot better than the "saw drill bit" I was using before, but it was lacking at some points. I would get to a point where the dremel would just crap out on me when putting pressure on some spots, and to be honest I didn't even finish the LIM as much as I wanted to because it was just taking too long and I was getting so tired of the dremel not doing the job. I'll definately get a die grinder for when I port the motor.

marlaman

that there is truly the most beautiful engine paint job i've seen on a 13b. good job man. hope the entire project goes as smooth as everything is looking :-)


Peace.

nonameo

Wow, aaron. You are someone that I want to exceed in ability. Gah, and I could do it, I just need more confidence!( and money wouldn't hurt either :-P)

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Holy crap, that should be a sweet FC.

Can you tell me how you polished the housing up so well? I have an old housing and rotor I want to set on my desk here, and got the corrosion and nasty stuff off, but it definatly needs a good polish.

DEZERTE

I like the work with the ACV

n4ji

iTrader: (1)

That's awesome, looks as if it were a professional job. Very well done.

Oh yeah, and you should've cleaned that housing before you painted it.

version13

When will these pictures be up and are their any more of your intake 'hack-job'? That idea seems pretty smart for those not using emissions or thier port actuators.

Did you use a kit to rebuild with new rotor bearings/seals, etc. or did you make a list and get what you needed?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Aaron, the work looks great. I have to wonder how well that candy paint will hold up under heat and chemical, but nonetheless sweet as it is.

My main question. Why did you decide to leave the divider between the auxiliaries and secondary ports in place? You obviously no longer have 6 port sleeves in place, so that additional port is always open...at this point there is nothing lost by cutting out the divider (both on the irons, and in the manifold). Without a sleeve to close off air flow at low rpm, having a divider is utterly useless, and only a restriction to airflow.

I can understand why you did not bring the brow down low to the secondary ports, but you could if you wanted. A good idea would be to modify the secondary throttle plate linkage to open later...to keep choppiness of the halfbridge minimal at low rpms and cruise.

I've been really wanting to build an NA halfbridge engine myself for a while, but I can't bring myself to pull my turbo engine out and do it. I have 4 vehicles myself, so it's not like I can have another FC as a project bitch, either...and I have yet to talk any of my customers/friends into it yet

Keep up the good work. I can't believe you hacked up your LIM like that, though. I assume you're gonna grind it down smooth? I also can't believe those port templates...they barely touched the secondaries or auxiliaries at all on those? What is the point...with a port job, you want your airflow to come through the secondaries (and auxiliaries), not the primaries...which is what they seem to be opening up most.

ddub

Hey Kevin, what templates do you use for your ports? Or do you make your own?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I made my own. I haven't done any really scientific testing, but they seem to work well enough from my experimentation over the years with different setups/cars/etc.

6 port with heavy auxiliary port for top end:



4 port (removed divider):

ddub

That looks ******* awesome, and I pm'd you.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Large SOFT wire brush (about 5" diameter) on a drill at around 2300 RPM. Worked pretty well. Of course, if you aren't planning to paint over the polish, you will then want to hit it with a polishing buff and some cutting compound. Start with a course compound, then work down to a fine polishing compound in about 3 steps.

I'll throw some up when I post the pics of the short block together. Right now, the manifold has been smoothed, the holes plugged, and all the welding is done. Now, I just need to smooth down the welds, give it a quick polish and paint. It really does look sweet.

I just bought what I needed:

-1 engine gasket set, 86-88 NA
-6 Atkins 2 piece 2MM apex seal
-2 3 window bearings
-2 rotor bearings
-12 side seals
-12 side seal springs
-12 corner seals w/rubber button
-12 FD corner seal springs
-4 inner oil o-ring (note: I did not replace the metal oil o-ring carrier)
-4 inner outer o-ring (note: I did not replace the metal oil o-ring carrier)
-1 front main seal
-1 rear main seal

I think that's basically it.

That can said it was good to about 300 degrees, so I'm hoping that's just enough. It's not the end of the world if it fails, but I would much prefer the paint to stay in tact. I'm so sick of working on dirty engines.

Good question! I am considering boost activated valves to close those ports off at low RPMs. We'll see though if I actually get around to setting that up.

LOL. That's my problem. I have so many projects that I want to get done, just no time in which to do it...I am REALLY hoping to get Tina done before the winter, so I have next summer to build a bike (12A of course) and get my motorcycle license. After that, I'll be building an SA, but the details of that are only known by a few people, and I'd like to keep it that way.

Yep...The intake needs to be finished before the engine can go into the car, so that's my next step.

I had similar thoughts about the template. I was surprised how little the secondaries and aux ports were touched. Presumably Mazdatrix didn't want hundreds of customers calling complaining they ran into the water jacket...

Personally, I sort of like this template. I am hoping that the car will actually idle.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

IF you leave the auxiliaries open, it will, but unsteadily. With that brow on there, I don't know how it will behave...I'll be curious to hear, but probably a little worse as far as idle (unless you close that off).

That is one thing about keeping a working 6 port system (for those stock na'ers reading) while porting the auxiliaries (like in my pic). While the sleeve is closed, that (big) port is still not hurting you at all...by the time it opens, air velocity is such that it doesnt ever hurt you. I usually leave primaries adn secondaries alone, and port the auxiliaries to almost double their stock size, this does not change low end or idle or even emissions characteristics (dependent on exhaust port, that is), but does offer a nice top end gain.

KiyoKix

This is simply fantastic work, I wonder how well the halfbridge will work for around town chores. Since your car is a super turbo I'm sure it won't be too bad off because you'll have a bit more velocity going on in there than a normal 6 port engine. I really like the work on the ACV also, I noticed there is a lot of empty space while I was cleaning mine (didn't cut mine though ). Where did you get your die grinder from and how much btw...also how about that "porting kit" you have. Good luck on finishing the rest of the project and keep us updated.

Kiyo

P.S
Kevin...that supa dupa "4" port scares me ! Got any video or sound of one of your customer cars running with it?

apreludem

awesome work Aaron!

import_rican

really impressive, I hope that one day I'll be able to do some work on my car like that, well as far as the skill to do it... not just the *****, i'll try anything.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The sleeves have always been missing from my car. Some "helpful" mechanic removed them in the past. I really wish people wouldn't do stuff like that. Anyway, my idle was always slightly lopey, but rock solid at 750 where it belongs. As for the bridge, it opens quite a but sooner then the stock port, but doesn't really overlap with the exhaust. So who knows, it may have no effect on idle.

But I'm not using the sleeves. My system will have either a butterfly, slider or (most likely) "iris" type valve.

The die grinder I purchased from Princess Auto. It is made by Jepson tools.

The porting kit is the Standard Abrasives Deluxe Porting Kit. The website is:

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/cat/p5.htm

It is also available at Summit Racing.

Tofuball

This is awesome. Thank you so much for posting this

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Just a quick note...The engine went together yesterday with very little drama. Snrub stopped by to hang out and be the third hand when necessary. I'll be posting pics of the assembly and short block soon. But first I need to order new torrington bearings from Mazda. The ones I have now are too worn, so the engine is too loose. I just need the new bearings so I can install the front hub and cover, and then get the pictures posted.

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

Dang just finished reading this! Very nice work Aaron, how much will the project be costing you in total and what type of HP figures do you expect from this? Oh yeah I might be getting another FC to swap a motor into it, and I was wondering if you know any sites that give some descriptions or what I would need to clean the engine bay and then paint it, a Super White painted engine bay MMMM.

-Andrew

1987 GXL "88 GTU coming soon, GXL turns into project 20b (Project Finish 2010)"

rs_1101

thATS aweSOME! i like the motor theme. if it was me, which it isnt, i would spray most of the engine accessories with VHT flat black to really set the motor off. that and... ur going to hate me but, some red ground wires or something. that would look cool.

version13

You kept the N/A endplates right? Those are much weaker that the turbo ones (I think). Will they hold up to that much power?

drago86

That looks like what im doing right now but with a turbo and a hell of a lot cleaner/ organized. One slight addition though, the leading edge of the side seals should be taken into acount when doing a bridge. The corner seals will be supported almost anywhere you put the bridge, but it its to far out the leading edge of the side seal will not be supported and crash into the top of the port. You left tons of meat in that bridge though, and didnt bring the aux out any so this is mainly a warning to newbie porters.

Did you do all porting work with stones and paper? If so that must have taken ages.