DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Ok...

Firstly, I want to thank Satch, Hailers, Karack, Aaron Cakes, and all other member who helped me in getting the car to run by spending their time giving advice and knowledge. THE CAR IS FINALLY RUNNING. THANKS SO MUCH!

Here is my spec
1987 Turbo II S4
- late 88 TII engine and harness with ecu(N333), high impedance injectors
- RB rev II downpipe to tailpipe
- cone air filter
- koyo aluminum radiator
- fuel pump rewire mod
- stock fuel pump
- removed emission while keeping BAC, ASV, Thermowax, Double accelerator Diagphram, and dashpot.
- twin scroll solenoid hooked in this order. twin scroll-->solenoid -->check valve (white/green) --> UIM
- installed a restrictor pill(4.73mm instead of oem 5mm) 1" away from MAP sensor
- stock BOV (or ABV)
- intake air bleed connected to the engine vent nipple next to the knock sensor. stock intake tube ---> intake air bleed pipe---> engine vent next to knock sensor
- engine vent off the oil filler tube is connected to atmosphere (meaning disconnected)
- engien pressure checked 1 month ago at 7 using the mazda compression checker.
- valvoline VR1 20w-50 racing oil
- premix 2 cycle oil.


I need some help with getting the car to run "safe".

First, I have a RB Rev II exhaust with the RB 3" downpipe. I know that I need to port the wastegate along with other fuel and ecu mod such as standalone or rtek, fuel pump, injectors. I did what I could and did the fuel pump rewire mod. However as of now I have no resource to port the wastegate nor the money to send it to machine shop. I'd like to know if it's possible to still drive the car as long as I don't push it and have boost build up?

Second, I installed a autometer mechanical boost gauge and tee'd it off the FPR vacumn line, with the nylon tubing it provided. But it's not responsive at all. when I tap the pedal the oem boost gauge is very responsive while the autometer does not move at all. I would have to build up a large boost pressure to the point that the fuel cut hits in order for the autometer to pick up a bit and move to below 5psi. I know there is vacumn getting to the gauge, because I disconnected the hose and felt suction, pretty strong suction too. I just don't know why it is so unresponsive.

Third, the car runs super rich, when I let off the throttle at 30mph, I can hear exhaust popping non-stop. The car also floods when hot, when the engine is hot and off, I can hear the fuel dripping into the engine. To start the car, I had to turn the fuel pump off while cranking and flick it back on the moment the engine starts. However the car starts right up when cold, although had to keep on the throttle a bit for couple minutes.

ps. is it ok to mount the stock ECU else where that doesn't have metal contact to it? Does the ECU itself acted as a ground? I asked this coz I'd like to mount it somewhere accessible for me to diagnose in the future. And also whenever I touch the throttle the fuel pump resistor would click, and when I let go it would click again, is that normal?

Please help and thanks!

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

The ecu case does not need to be grounded.

You can't hear fuel dripping into your engine.

Autometer gauges are garbage, and so is their nylon reference line.

Is the engine high miles? When were the injectors last cleaned? Tough hot starts are caused by low compression or leaking fuel injectors. Was the compression checked with the engine warm?


Stay out of boost until you have properly sized injectors and a way to control them, or make an intake/exhaust restrictor.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

The engine was checked when cold. Is there a difference? Yes the engine is high mileage.

I've seen some people with good result with autometer. Is it just kinda like a hit or miss that I just got a shitty one?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Try to make the line to the FPR a dedicated line.Not shared.
Find another source of Vacuum/boost on the engine.(plenty on the TB,like 5/6 inlets there) or share it with your Boost sensor.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

tested with another boost gauge, the line seem to work fine

The boost gauge reads -11 at idle and fuel cuts at 5 psi. So I know I hooked it up right. But I will relocate it to another line and make FPR dedicated.


Now here is my new problem.... I was parking the car, and forgot to put it back to neutral. When I let off the clutch the car jerked forward and died. After that the car wouldn't start. The stock boost gauge reads at 40 mmhg hitting all the way to top when the key is at ON position. I know this is not normal because it should sit at about the middle of the gauge. Does that mean the car shook something off and caused a massive vacuum leak? I've looked and reconnected all the vacuum hoses and all of them were intact. When I disconnect the MAP sensor wire the gauge goes back to 0 mmhg when key is at ON. I reconnected the MAF and the hose and it still does nothing. Not even starter fluid can start the car.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

Is the tach needle bouncing while you try to start it? Deflood it.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

the tach was bouncing, I have a kill switch to turn the pump off during start to deflood, in this case it did not help in starting the engine.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

do the compression test with the engine fully warmed up

do not tee off the FPR line, it has a solenoid that operates the signal to the FPR based off of engine load. the best source to tee off of is the pressure sensor line off the passenger side of the engine, the blowoff valve line or the top/bottom nipples at the front of the UIM. the lines right off the passenger side will give bouncy readings as they are close to the engine ports, closer the port is to the engine the more resonance you see in the vacuum readings.

warm up the car and shut it down, pull off the vacuum line to the FPR and see if it is dripping fuel indicating the regulator diaphragm has ruptured which would cause hot start flooding.

double check your ignition timing, it can cause backfiring as can a faulty ACV or ACV controls or lack of smog pump with the rest of the system in place still.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Just finished checking on the car today

I pulled the spark plug out, and crank the engine, I see the spark firing.
I jumped the fuel pump from battery, the pump turns on.
I removed the tee off the FPR line

I put the plug back on, crank the engine, while the pump stays jumped.
Pull the plug out. Dry plug.

I took the jumper off the pump, have a friend crank the engine while I listen to the pump with a screw driver

The pump turns off when the car is cranking. Even if I disconnect the pump from harness and jump it from battery and have it stay on. The car still won't start when I crank, and still gets dry plug.

The MAP sensor gauge hits all the way to the top at 40 x10 mmhg instead of regular 15 mmgh range when key is at ON. I can't find any vacuum hose disconnected. When I crank the car while holding WOT, the MAP gauge jumps up a bit more.

I just don't understand why the car would run perfect a moment ago, and refuse to start after a stall.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

just checked again

This is done while another car is running and connected its battery to the FC

When the fuel pump is disconnected from harness and jumped from battery
The pump slows down when the car is cranking

When the pump is connected to the harness and jumped from battery
The pump either slows more that you can't hear it, or it simply shuts off.

When the pump is connected to the harness and not jumped, it does not turn on when the engine is cranking.

bmwrx7man

iTrader: (2)

triple check them grounds . u see if ur injecters are clicking at all?

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

How do I see if my injectors are clicking?

I've checked all grounds. They are all attached.

Grounds
- Firewall to Bellhousing
- ECU to the top of rotor housing under TB
- Battery harness to driver side strut wall
- Battery harness to driver side strut wall under trailing coil
- Battery harness to alternator bracket
- Battery harness to bellhousing around oil pressure sensor

Are these the right location for grounds?


Another one I need answer which I've not seen anyone post this on the forum. I've went through advance searches and still can't find related issue.

Whenever the car has problem starting, the MAP gauge would be all the way to the top which is at 40 mmHG. Instead of normal at 20 mmHg. I can't find anything related to this issue.

I'd like to know what does the MAP sensor at 40 mmHG indicates when key is at ON.

It makes no sense to me when the engine gets no fuel and yet the MAP gauge reads 40 mmHg.

Thanks

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Got the car to run.

I disconnected the 30 amp relay from the fuel pump rewire mod, and connected 87 to 30 the power source directly to the pump instead. The pump turns on and the car can start if I crank it. However the pump will keep running until it is disconnected or the battery is out. So that's not a permanent fix, So the cause of no start would likely to be the faulty 30 amp relay, and I think I can smell the plastic burn that's from fuel pump resistor pack area. And whenever I smell it the fuel pump will shut off right away, probably some sort of fail safe mechanism that shuts all power to the pump when the resistor overheats or something, even tho the power is connected directly to the battery. The resistor pack also would click randomly usually related to voltage flow around the car. For example, if I press the brake pedal the resistor would click, and if I depress it again it would click again. Sometimes it clicks non-stop randomly.

The high MAP gauge reading is likely related to the power going to the resistor pack probably. No one seem to be able to answer what could've caused the map gauge to hit 40 mmHg when key is at ON.

So now the problem is to figure out why the pump will not turn on when connected to the relay, or why is the relay shorting out.

I also jumped the yellow connector at the pass strut wall, it didn't turn the pump on after rewire. However the car runs, so I don't understand what is the mechanic of the yellow connectors.

At least now I'm certain it is electrical related issue.

HAILERS2

Second, I installed a autometer mechanical boost gauge and tee'd it off the FPR vacumn line, with the nylon tubing it provided. But it's not responsive at all. when I tap the pedal the oem boost gauge is very responsive ************************************************** ************************************************** **********************************************

Seems your FPR is NOT being fed by a source of vacuum. Not all nipples are vacuum sources. Some are only sources of fresh filtered air, not vacuum. That explains why you see the autometer gauge move in boost only and not vacuum or lower throttle openings.

Idle the car. Pull the vac line off the FPR and feel the line for vacuum or lack of vacuum.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the input.

I took the tee off the FPR line. I will check tomorrow if there is a source of vacuum on FPR.

The gauge reads boost only because it's a boost gauge only, not a vac/boost gauge, so the lowest it will read is 0.

DairokutenMaoh

iTrader: (4)

I took the tee off the FPR line. I will have to test that tomorrow to see if fuel is dripping off FPR.
HOWEVER, this is important. I was idling the car today, and I smell fuel in the engine bay. I started looking around secondary fuel rail area and saw the input line that connects to the secondary rail starts to leaking fuel. and I see a puddle of fuel on the engine next to LIM, I shut the car and disconnect the battery immediately. Luckily, the car was leaking coolant around the engine return line next to the TB and mixed it up with the fuel. So nothing ignited.

the line never leaked before, but it started leaking after I connect the pump directly to the battery while idling the car warm. Yet as of now it stopped leaking again with the same method applied before.