Stussy

I have an s4 tii that I am installing an FFE trigger kit on. It can only go on one way, but I just want my thoughts justified so I don’t feel like I am messing up the timing. Attached are pictures. I have the pulley lined up the the first mark, 5deg, there is an arrow on the trigger kit that points to where the hall sensor is. Is this correct? That arrow shouldn’t be pointed to TDC near the pin?

Stussy

I also saw somewhere that I have to flip wires or mess with my megasquirt pots? I have my megasquirt set to how they say in their manual, but another thread said that they ended up adjusting the pots the opposite way to get it to work…

WondrousBread

I can't answer the alignment question, but I did a similar conversion with a custom wheel and S10 sensor. I can answer the Megasquirt setup questions.

If you are changing from the stock dual VR setup there are a few wiring changes. There are three connections necessary, and then two potentiometers to adjust.

The three connections from the sensor are ground (connect to any ground at the MS), power (I used the MS TPS reference 5V for my sensor), and signal from the sensor to the appropriate crank input on the MS. Refer to the FFE instructions for the input voltage. Some sensors seem to want 12V, others 5V, and in some cases like mine the sensor can take either.

If you have an MS3X, you have two such inputs, labelled Tacho In on the MS3 main board and Cam on the MS3X board. Either is suitable for this purpose.

Then for the potentiometers, I configured mine as instructed in the MS3 manual. I think it was all the way clockwise on one and then all the way - 2.5 turns back on the other. I would refer to the manual to be certain. It's in the trigger setup section, the heading is Hall sensor with internal pull-up. FFE may also clarify this.

You only need to adjust the potentiometers for the input you're actually using. The other one can be adjusted or left alone, but since you're in there I would adjust it anyways. You may want to use it for wheel speed or something else later that will need a Hall sensor.

In trigger settings, you want a single wheel (missing tooth) with 36 teeth, and it spins at crank speed. You'll need to select whether you used the mainboard or MS3X input for it. Then you need to put the tooth 1 trigger angle, which FFE will provide for you in their instructions.

To adjust timing, you change the timing to fixed (in the same screen as the trigger settings) and lock it at -5. Then use a timing light on the L1 spark plug and aim it at the main pulley when running. Adjust the Tooth 1 Trigger Angle up or down until the first mark aligns with the pointer.

Don't forget to unlock your timing after, or else you'll be driving around a 5°ATDC all the time. Ask how I know

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you might ask for better instructions, but if the factory timing marks are lined up (-5) it seems logical that the arrow would point to the sensor

is that the Atkins pulley kit?

Stussy

I sent them an email. Ill update after they get back to me. Yes it is the Atkins kit, havent used it yet, but its pretty nice.

Stussy

Installed correctly, this is from FFE

“For the FC Hall kit, you would use the original timing marks on the pulley. The arrow indicator would point to the center of the hall sensor when the engine is at TDC. The arrow will not be used for timing really, we just use it as a reference point. “