FD brakes on FC?
 

Just wondering, will they fit? :Wconfused

bahhh! you should know to search by now!

but yes they somewhat will.

just use 4 piston TII calipers and brackets (may have to make something to move the brackets out farther) and the FD rotors.

dont forget some nice Hawk pads too!

i did search, maybe i'm just retarded and couldnt find anything. :(

meh. i asked before and got my head chewed off! lol

it happens.

actually if you want to know more about it ask rob81gsl. he knows more than i do about it.

now... back to teh lounge with joo!!!

I think I read somewhere that there would be no gains...But notice the "think". Dude, seriously, if I had to custom up some breakage, I would do the EVO swap like that one guy....stuff was on point!

Front calipers do with no modification what so ever. If you intend to use the FD front rotors, you will need a spacer (Ted posted a pic not to long ago, however I've never seen the spacer in this part of the world)

Don't know about the rears :(

+1
when i get the time i'll be doing that swap

Holy crap, I just thought of something. If the FD rotors will fit on the car with the FC calipers and a bracket, and the FD calipers will fit with the FC rotors and no adapter (Identical mounting and pad location), then in theory, any front big brake kit intended for an FD will work with the adapters that let you run the FC calipers and FD rotors, assuming you don't mind running double adapters and they don't interfere with one another.

all you really need is a good set of pads and the TII brakes. thats all! no more.

they do their job and they do it well.

the only time you will need more is past probably 600 RWHP.

not neccesarily...

here bloodlust and for everyone else thats been wondering. RETed posted a link to yahoo japan auctions for an aftermarket bracket that will work for what you want it to.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/want-use-fd3s-front-brake-rotors-744893/

aren't the FD brakes and the 4 piston FC brakes functionally the same? I thought the rotors and calipers were pretty much the same design and similar size. And I know the brake pads are pretty much the same too, unless I am completely off the mark.

FC 4-piston, 5-lug front / FC vented 5-lug rears...

Calipers are basically the same - Yes.
Brake rotors are NOT.
Brakes pads are IDENTICAL.


-Ted

I wouldn't.

Look at all that brake bias and brake pedal feel problems he's running into now.
I had a feeling it was going to end up like that...

So your ~$500 Brembo brake calipers from eBay suddenly turn into a $1,000+ project...
Machined rotors...
New brake master cylinder...
Custom brake lines...


-Ted

It looked good. I have not followed up on it. Meh, you gotta give the guy props for trying though.

R33 spizzam!
http://img305.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/u...8171675hjy.jpg
http://img305.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/u...8171713hdy.jpg
http://img305.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/u...8171723bdg.jpg

You can see they removed the front brake dust shield. The rears look to still be FC calipers but maybe FD rotors or from teh R33/Z car family i dunno
http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k51728628

would be nice to just get that.. they even modified the front anchor

fc 4 pot brakes should be enough stopping power unless you're boosting alot of power. Just upgrade the lines to steel braided, flush the system, and run better pads.

mmm uselesss post... dude has no gender, man.

most aftermarket calipers are four pot, unless you pay for the bigger 6 and 8 pot. but the brake bias is beautiful imo. why mess with it? ive got drilled rotors and my car stops on a dime. ABS helps a f*ton too. sometime this summer ill drop a few hundred (a few few hundreds) to upgrade my lines to SS (including fuel and oil)

Drilled rotors don't help you stop any quicker, its all show.

ABS doesn't help you stop faster, if anything, it slows you down when threshold braking. These early systems were garbage, but are somehow better then my 2002 Chevy's...

If anybody ends up using their abs I will give a word of advice,
"You think your driving fast when you are really not."

Well, if I said "shes a dude" then I think that would mean there would be some extra equipment there...but the every day use of dude....universal....drilled and vented rotors just get rid of hear...reducing brake fade...not going to help unless you push them hard long enough for them to heat up....+1 for nice pads and ss braided lines....

How much power are you putting down? What pads? Brake fluid? How fast are you experiencing fade? My friend Joel (frijolee) is engineering a 4-wheel BBK for under $1000 for the FC with larger rotors to help with heat dissipation if you're at the limits of the stock brakes.

FD front rotors would fit with a bracket, however, what is the point, theyre .2in larger in diameter.

Maybe the 99 spec brakes, which were larger.

Also, expect to get a S5 T2 Brake booster and 929MC when upgrading your calipers as well.

Nope, they don't help with fade. When they get hot they're MUCH more likely to crack than a plain rotor. They're for show only and only really survive when driven as such have absolutely no business being used on track or in any high stress environment.

+1

Another thing to add:

Tires also play a big role in determining your braking needs.

If you want more feel, a brake master cylinder brace makes a world of difference. I posted up a how to a while back if you're interested. It's dirt cheap and easy to make.

yes... because no racers use drilled and/or slotted rotors! :wallbash: :icon_no2:

Basically yes, none of them use drilled rotors. Go to any given race weekend and >99% of the brake rotors you'll see are plain rotors with a few slotted thrown in the mix, almost no-one will be using drilled, unless maybe that's their only option or something like that.

It is a well known, proven fact that drilled rotors are much, MUCH more likely to crack when used hard. Yes all rotors crack, but drilled crack WAY sooner. I've got an SAE paper where they tested drilled vs plain rotors and found that in some cases they helped a little (and this was only when the pads were overheating, where better pads should have been used anyway), and in others they were worse. That's combined with much higher replacement costs and increased pad wear.

They are purely for style. If track use is in the cards, get plain rotors.

yes the drilled and slotted crack more often, which is why most people settle for either or, but not both, unless you just want to look JDM pimp tyte yo.
i never understood the whole drilled&slotted craze on street cars, all it does is raise the chance for cracking rotors and reducing the friction surface between the pad and rotor

what kind of setup are you (OP) running currently? going for something slightly bigger (i think someone already mentioned the actual difference) will not really reduce fade that much, the actual rotors and pads will have more of an effect. maybe SS brake lines as well

dammit.....I hate buying shit and then it being jdm pimp tyte with no purpose what so ever except to help me slam my shit into a tree when a rotor fucks up.....

On the street it's not that big a deal, as you won't see the wild temp fluctuations that you do on the track, which is a large part of what causes the rotors to crack. They should last quite a while on the street provided you're driving more or less legally.

Drilled rotors are really just a solution to a problem that no longer exists (pad off-gassing), therefore they're pretty much useless.

It's not an either or thing with either drilled or slotted not cracking, but both cracking, it's the holes that are the problem, slots are relatively compromize free (they are only slightly more prone to cracking and have somewhat increased pad wear than plain rotors). A hole is a stress riser, no matter if it's chamfered, cast in place or whatever, it's still a stress riser, and that leads to the cracking.

Thanks alot for the info.

Yes I got drilled and slotted rotors on my FC but only because thay came with it.Used them at the track one day (15 min rums around button willow) with Hawk HP+ pads that came on the car with them , low initial bite but good modulation., I am sure when I make the switch to just slotted and HPS it will feel much better and better initial bite will be a bit better since the pads will heat up a bit faster..
I preff. Brembo Stock replacements with 5 slots no HOles.

thats why about 90% of the people at my track use drilled and/or slotted rotors...

yes they do crack easier but not as easily as you are trying to make it sound. i have personally put drilled and slotted rotors through hell and back multiple times and the only the that has destroyed them so far is rocks from people in front of me hitting and breaking pieces off of them.

yes, they are in no way needed for street use unless you are going to more than legal speeds. but to reinerate (sp) once again, all you need for a street fc would be the TII brakes and some good pads such as Hawk HP+ which are also nice for autocross if you happen to go to a couple of them.

90%?! You've got to be jocking. I've done a bunch of track days, as well as crewing for a race team at a number of races and have never seen many drilled rotors at all. Yes they're more common at track days, but I've never even seen close to 25% there. Most track junkies know this and purposfully avoid drilled rotors, even if that is what there is stock, since if the car's been out for any length of time, there's bound to be a plain rotor available for them.

Maybe you've had good luck so far, maybe you're not punishing the brakes that hard, but that doesn't make them any less failure prone. Yes they won't crack on the first hard braking, but they will do so at least twice as fast as plain rotors. Combined with the much higher costs, only suckers run drilled rotors on track, as it'll cost you A LOT more in the long run for NO PERFORMANCE INCREASE at all.

^blackball7

Pickup the June edition of GRM, Black91n/a knows what the hell he's talking about.

Great rotor info. Here is a pic of fd calipers on my fc. They are physically bigger than the fc four pistons and don't seem different at all, but I could be wrong.

Attachment 705083

Here's the reason why I have the fd caliper: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=brake+caliper

I wouldn't go out and buy some. They just seem to be bigger and get in the way of wheels.

So what did you do to get those one there eh? I have a FD that I might be getting a bbk for and my old calipers can go on my FC.

The calipers are essentially the same, they'll bolt right up. That said, there's absolutely no point in doing so, since they're essentially the same.

Ill rebuke the claims and say that lemans cars use slotted and drilled brake rotors :) regular iron too, not ceramic or any exotic material on the brakes

bunch of people on the keyboard talking worse case scenarios of slotted and drilled rotors

like everyone here is a die hard track racer, lol



and I just realized this is from 2008, lol



by the way - joel did create a front kit, never a marketable rear kit. If he did have a 4 wheel kit it would still be way over $1000 by the time you had it all together