SouthSideSlider

[QUOTE=vipers]yeah, that pic your using is incorrect on the lower front fascia.. there is no solid indentation anywhere on the front bumper.. both s4 and s5's are a smooth fluid curve all the way to the bottom... i dont understand why that picture is off like that...
QUOTE]
acutally thats how my car is with the indent in at the center opening on the front bumper. it goes in about and inch back from the rest of the bumper.

my car is a 1990 model

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

THAT is an s4 FC, do the s5 like his car (s4 is the older version with the square back lights, crap bumpers, black molding,) like the FD's you got the "99 spec" and the older one, do the s5 version.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

The program I use is C4D, found at www.maxon.net, if not that get XSI or 3DS, those three programs are heavily used for car modeling out there.

I know about that, I'm intentionally keeping it raised up like that so that I can match the spoiler up with the body just like I did the hood, if you notice I just extruded the hood scoop out of the car body itself, the spoiler will be done the same way, yes I do realize that is flat.

I know that mine is an S4, I've already been through that with several people, and if you want an s5, I'm going to need reference pictures from all angles of the changes, and maybe some updated blueprints would help a lot.

Thanks to all for your suggestions, I'm trying my best to make this car to the best of my ability to the spec of the real thing, but apparently my blueprints are inaccurate and it's making things semi-difficult on me...so don't blame me if it turns out crappy. :p lol jk...actually you can blame me.

57bronco

What version of C4D are you using? I was looking at some of the prices and it is very inexpensive compared to UG NX, I would like to have something to use at home. I’m going to check on a converter, C4D to UG NX and visa-versa.
I would like to do file on the 13B.

Chixican

iTrader: (1)

These might help you out... They're pretty old but very good.

http://www.yfish.net/snkgallary/cg/rx-700.html
http://www.yfish.net/snkgallary/movie/RE01.html
http://www.yfish.net/snkgallary/movie/RX-7-01.html

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

I'm running C4D 9.1, I don't use 10 because it's not backwards compatable.

In terms of pricing, the XL Bundle have is worth $2,500, however I did *NOT* :: wink wink :: download a pirated version, if you DO however, download 9.0 then get the 9.1 update from their website.

And if you do a 13B I would love to use it, and give credit to you of course.

57bronco

I teach at night at a local college and get the educator discount, $195.95 for C4D 10 or $294.95 for C4D R10 with the XL bundle.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

That's a HUGE discout, I know how discounts work, when I went to a community college I got the whole CS2 suite for $400, where if you bought each for retail it's over $1,000...

Like I said thou, I suggest NOT buying 10, not backwards compatable, and they changed the layout, so basically all the tutorials out there done on the internet by people using 8 and 9, will NOT work for you, and are obsolete now. I suggest like the above post, getting 9.0 then downloading the 9.1 update from their website, only way to do it in my opinion...

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

Alright, new updates...

Added a LOT more definition to the window loop up top, did some more point managment and made sure that points lined up, changed the back view a little bit, and added some more definition back there as well...other than that just minor details probably no one else would notice.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

Did more work on the window, and now I'm starting on parts of the door frame, window and door changes are circled in rectangles and circles, the parts I need to work on are in the irregular rectangle shape off to the left, I still have more work to do on those wheel wells.



My mesh looks a little messy too, luckily NURB's solves a lot of that program, but I have a lot of cleaning up too do.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

http://www.yfish.net/snkgallary/movie/RX-7/RX7-02.html

the flythro i was telling you about

LeeTheSlacker

ive tried this before, those front fenders alltogether are hell to get right. even if you get it structured right the normals dont want to come out how they should, especially where they meet the front bumper.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

I can't load video's at home, dialup internet, I get dropped...

But anyway...difference between non and NURB'ed are below, you can see how rough the non-NURB car is compared to the smoothed out NURB'ed model.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

not bad looking at all. bring the windshield point up so its level with the top of the fender. the fender doesnt slope down like that and the rear bumper needs to be raised just a scosch

cmanns

So fun looking.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

Okay, I raised the points up so it no longer slumps, I hope this is what you were talking about...and then also I raised the back up a very tiny bit, changes are outlined in red.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

Had a small brain fart there and realized he said bumper, not trunk, so here I am with more updates...bumper is fixed, and so is more of the door frame...

Moved points are in rectangle, new points are in circles.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

the bottom of the bumper was fine. im talking about the shelf right below the tails needs to be raised slightly. and it looks like you might need to bring the top of the hatch forward it looks like it might be sitting too far back but i might just be wierd.

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

There's definitely not THAT much of a rear deck on the FC. Eliminate the 'overhang' looking thing and it might be spot on. And it looks like the fenders need more shoulder.

Edit: The way it looks now modernizes things a bit, IMHO.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

Well the bottom of it needed to be raised up when I looked EXTREMELY close at the bumper, it was off by a merely .5...lol...I just thought you had a sharp eye.

I also fixed what you showed me, once again it was off a very tiny bit, and now it lines up perfectly with my blueprints, if you still think it looks wrong I'll go to my references pictures people sent me.



Also did work on the rear hatch, and it does line up exactly with my blueprints, as shown below...

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

Ohhh, that includes the spoiler...no wonder it looked off. Sans spoiler, there's virtually no rear deck...two inches or so. In the blueprint, you can see the fender shoulders.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

Fender is good by both my blueprints and reference pictures that I have, and please actually show me what you mean, by taking my picture, and using a real life example, it's really hard to tell what everyone is telling me when you overword things, it's hard to locate what I need to fix. EXAMPLES PEOPLE! lol

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

this is why nurbs modeling is stronger for auto models

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

Look at the last picture you posted... Look above both wheels, above the arch. You can see in the side profile of the car, that there are sketched shoulders. They're NOT highlighted in blue like everything else. You probably have the lines right from above, when looking down at the model, but there's definition that you probably don't have modeled in, from every side, front or rear angle.

My comment about the rear deck was before I saw that there was a spoiler on the car. Without the spoiler, there's almost no rear deck.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

Okay, I cut the points out, now I just have to turn them into edges, I beleive what I'm going to do is just bevel the edges themselves, then do an inner extrude and then bring the points out, which should make it work...