BomberMan

iTrader: (4)

I've tried searching for some real concrete info on the options available for tuning the FCs' suspension system, but I haven't found any real discussion on the subject, so I am hoping that I can incite one here.

As far as springs go I have managed to dig up the following information on spring rates, most of the time it was not noted so I presume these stats are in lbs/in:


Stock: 95 Front 90 Rear

Eibach (progressive dual-rate): 70/185 Front 85/165 Rear (90/165 Rear for turbo applications. Don't know why.)

Suspension Techniques: 120 Front 120 Rear (Thought that was a typo at first, makes no sense to have the same spring rate front and rear right?)

Suspension Specialties: (No spring rate data, only saw these noted on rx7.com)

Racing Beat: 156 Front 128 Rear (according to Racing Beats' website) 130 Front 80 Rear (according to independent tests by Mazdatrix) 140 Front 132 Rear (according to posts on another forum)


The info on Racing Beat in particular is disheartening. I was planning to try these springs with Tokico Illuminas, but with varying reports like this I'm not too sure now. It's not like they offer different packages right? In my case I just want a setup that will be good for Solo 2 autocross, but won't break my spine if I have to drive for a few hours.

I also checked out the coilover packages from Tien, Megan, CS Racing, and Yellow. These are all the cheap junky looking eBay kits, but I would like to hear if anyone has any experience with those (mostly for amusements sake). They listed their spring rates at anything from 8- 12 kg/mm. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but that comes out to something like 430 lbs/in. That just sounds stupidly stiff.

I'm not trying to limit this discussion to springs only, but it seems that Koni and Billstein no longer make dampers for the rx7. Does that leave the only KYB and Tokico as the only decent choices?

Come on guys, I wanna hear about your setups!

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

Hmm... That's odd.. If I'm doing the math correctly, RB says that the stock rates are approx:
130 front, 106.66 rear.

Anyway, I have RB springs on my car but I don't do any performance driving [outside of a couple hard driving twisty road sessions/summer; and driving quickly around corners in town], I also have fairly worn Tokico Blues [unknown mileage], stock sway bars, all original bushings. It handles well and isn't too bumpy driving around [though it's got nothing on the smooth driving of soft stock suspension]

I have a friend with a Ground Control coilover conversion kit [Eibach springs] and I think he said it was around 700 spring rate... He says it's stupidly rough when adjusted up to the max height [~1" drop] but more comfortable when lower [not sure how that works..]

Now.. I'm a fairly big Racing Beat fan, but I think something must be odd with at least the Mazdatrix spring test. [The other test sounds like it's at least pretty close to the stated numbers, so perhaps their front springs are just worn out..]

Evil Aviator

For autocrossing and street use, most people use KYB AGX, Tokico Illumina, or Tokico "blue" dampers along with one of the spring sets listed on the Mazdatrix website. The Koni brand is usually used as an insert in conjunction with the Mazda Motorsport Development or Ground Control coilover kits which are more suited for SCCA IT or EP racing. The Bilstein dampers are also used as coilover inserts for SCCA IT and EP racing:
http://www.iscracing.net/2nd_gen_rx7.html

Megan and similar cheap Korean crap is made for the wanna-be drifters who are under the misconception that all coilovers are created equal and that any cheapie, untuned coilover setup will make them drift mad quick yo.

BomberMan

iTrader: (4)

LOL. yea, I'm wicked skeptical of any kit that uses aluminum sleeves on the spring perches to adjust ride height. Basically any setup that can be had for less than $500 seems like it is just not worth the money. I figured I'd include them here just to be thorough. ISC racing seems to allow you to choose whatever spring rate you want. That's fantastic, but I'm still not too sure what would be good for an Auto X setup vs something for track racing (they recommend 400 Front and 250 Rear, but don't specify for what type of motorsports application).

Lets face it. While the factory spring rate is 95/90 a 20+ year old car is going to be way out of that spec. So pretty much ANY suspension setup is going to feel like a godsend after something that is old and broken. It seems difficult to get anything concrete on the Racing Beat springs, but I have been told by my autocrossing Miata friends that that 150ish rating they have may be a bit too soft for Auto X. Does that make them suitable for track racing? or only aggressive street driving?

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

It all comes down to what you prefer. You might have to try things out and see how they feel, then make changes as needed.

Check this out:
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/%5Bfc%5D-bigass-budget-baller-bilstein-build-thread-955929/

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

What is your budget? What year and trim is your car?

The typical stock replacements like KYBs, tokicos, and stock style springs are really only mild upgrades for 100% street driving. For any kind of autocross or track driving you will want a coilover setup with built in front camber plates.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

+1
I went to one auto x event on stock suspension, it was fun, but frustrating. Then I found a deal on a ground control setup w/tociko blues for $300. Night and day difference! Next event I won the novice class.

Then one of the rear struts blew (they don't like being to low) and I had some other repairs to fund. I sold the setup for more than I paid and later found a deal on some ksports for less than what ground controls, camber plates and agx/illuminas would have cost. I haven't been back to auto x but they feel much better than the gc/blue combo on the street. Are they better than gc/koni? No. Better than gc/agx? Dunno, but they were cheaper, and a step up from what I had.

When you can "out drive" your components, that's when its time to upgrade. There's nothing wrong w/ a cheaper setup, especially if its ground control, as you can keep adding on as your needs dictate.

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

I had Tein Flex coilovers on my old FC and they definitely don't belong grouped with Megans or the other "cheap" brands. They're designed for a good street ride that will perform well (but not quite as good as a dedicated track set) on the track. They certainly didn't let me down when I took my FC on the 'Ring. At $1400 they're not bad compared to the higher end coilovers, but their design sounds like what you're going for (good for track and street). I wouldn't write them off because of spring rate. You might be surprised how stiff you can go with your springs before they feel uncomfortable.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I'm sort of interested in Tein coilovers. I used to see GREAT reviews about Silk Road... Is Silk Road still around?

3vil

iTrader: (4)

for the budget i've been happy with my AGX and GC setup (GC's were bought used). i can dial the AGX's to soft for most of my daily driving, then crank them up for weekend stupidity. i do wish that the GC's dropped my car a bit further so that i can be all herra frush, but all in all i enjoy the setup much better than the stockies

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

My only problem with the GC setups is that when you lower the car it affects travel, where as coilover setups usually have the bracketing threaded to the damper body so the height can be adjusted without affecting spring preload or suspension travel. With a street car you want to maintain as much travel as possible.

GregW

Have em, Love em, should have done it as the very first upgrade.

On soft its very streetable on full stiff its more car than I can handle.

BomberMan

iTrader: (4)

Yarrgh... if I'd known about this threads existence I would not have started this considering I'm a relative n00b to competitive suspension setups.

The tein flex system looks awesome, but I'll need a new job before this goes under the "reasonable" column in my budget. In my case all the adjustment options may just add excessive complications. In any case, I think I'm going to lose myself in the data that can be found in the link above, so I'll actually know how to set up whatever system I end up getting. (Still want to hear more about setups and tuning tho...)

Does anyone know how much camber the FC gets when lowered? I'm trying to ascertain the level of importance camber plates will have for me.

matt62417

Hey guys Ive been looking around for the same info for a while now its been a little tricky at times a bit of info to take in. Im looking into getting a set of BC BR coilovers I was wondering if anyone had any advice on them. I have a 91 Tii with 195k miles and its still on original shocks and springs so its a little past dew for an upgrade.

Thanks

blk87Turbo2

iTrader: (23)

The only "budget" ones I've found that will fit the bill for me are the KSport Kontrol Pro coilovers. Only reason I'm not going with the Tein Flex coilovers again is cost...I'm budget building my car and the suspension is the only thing I'm purchasing brand new, everything else has been used, so I have to keep it cheap. A few friends have used the KSports on other platforms with great results.

DC 91 fc3s

iTrader: (11)

search bro.... haha you thread jacker lol


jk

to OP ever looking into tein s techs??? decent drop and they ride good from my experience, some what bumpy but pretty solid

BomberMan

iTrader: (4)

^ I welcome thread jacking. This is a discussion after all

Hell I've never even heard of BC BR so if anyone has any data chime in, the more the merrier. Currently I'm working on trying to find the spring rate of suspension specialties springs. Seems rx7.com is the only one that sells em. I'm thinking I'm gonna call them on Monday.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

A lowered FC will definitely need camber plates. The machpherson geometry up front only allows negative camber gain up to a certain point - after that the wheel will start to gain positive camber. The camber plates will allow you to 'band-aid' the problem by running more neg camber than needed (and obtain the right camber under compression in corners)

http://www.carsdirect.com/aftermarke...spension-setup