jjandros

iTrader: (7)

Working in the hatch area this Fall has been a pain as my lift supports no longer hold up the rear hatch. In fact, in order to pop the hatch I've had to pop the hatch and then slam the door a few times just so that I could pry my fingers under the hatch to lift it. Tired of being annoyed I decided to fix it, and figured I'd make an updated write-up as so many of them are broken thanks to imageshack.

*Please read the entire guide before following the steps to decide if this is the way you want to do this.
*This is the way I went about replacing my hatch lift supports. Follow this guide at your own risk.

Tools:
12mm socket
12mm open-ended wrnech
Flat tip screw driver
Phillip's head screw driver
Wooden prop for hatch (or someone to hold the hatch open while working)
Scissors
Razor
Tape measure
Heat gun

Replacement parts:
2 StrongArm 6229 Hatch Lift Supports
$27.88 each on Amazon with free shipping
Roll of 1" heat shrink
$3.99 at Harbor Freight (Item #9639)

Removal Procedure:
1) Fully open the rear hatch and secure it with a prop to stop it from falling
2) Carefully pry off the lower cover on the left and right side of the lift supports (Helps to use a flat tip screw driver)
3) Carefully remove the light cover lens on the right support
4) Remove the two Phillip's head screws clamping the light to the right support
5) Remove the lamp on the right support and disconnect the harness
6) Use the razor blade to cut the plastic covering over the right strut to reveal the wiring
7) Remove the 12mm nut at the bottom of the left and right side supports (Only this bolt will be reused)
8) Remove the upper portion of the supports from the hatch with the 12mm open-end wrench

Replacement Procedure:
9) Open the new strut assemblies and place the silver adapter onto the end of the supports followed by the ball mount reciever
10) Place the metal washer onto the ball mount stud and install on the left and right sides of the hatch
11) Place one plastic washer on lower support bolt, slide through lower support mount, place another plastic washer on the inside and install on the left and right sides
12) Pop the left side support lift onto the ball stud
13) Cut a piece of the 1" heat shrink to a length of 18"
14) Hold the wiring harness in place and slide the heat shrink down over top of the support and wire
15) Make sure the wiring harness is positioned in such a way that it will not bind when the light is reinstalled
****This next step is inherently dangerous, it is not recommended to heat any pressurized part. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!****
16) Carefully heat the shrink tubing with heat gun (Take frequent breaks. Do NOT allow the struts to become warm at all!)
****This is no joke! Be careful doing this! Look up what overheating struts will end up doing (It's basically a pipe bomb). If you are worried about harming yourself, you may want to wrap the support with some kind of nice tape.****
17) Pop the right side support lift onto the ball stud
18) Connect the lamp assembly and reinstall using the two phillip's head screws
19) Place the lamp lens back on
20) Place the lower lift covers back on (These are finicky and can take a few times to get right)

Enjoy.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Well done, it's amazing how much effort it takes to describe/document such a simple procedure, isn't it.

I would recommend as a final step...(must do on warm/hot day) slather your rear hatch seal with vasoline, let it sit and replenish if dry patches appear.
Wipe off excess after it stops absorbing.
This will keep the seal supple and looking nice but also (after cleaning the mating surface on the hatch) eliminates stiction and the hatch will fly open when released.
Seriously, watch out. Mine nearly caught my jaw first time.

jjandros

iTrader: (7)

It really is crazy how much work went into the documentation. Hence the minimal pictures. But the forums have always been here for me and it's my turn to start giving back where I can.

The idea about the Vasoline is PERFECT. I cleaned it up with a little soapy water which ended up making it worse once it dried. I didn't want to put any oil on the seal and potentially damage it. Vasoline's a great idea. Thank you.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Vaseline also works wonders on the dash and any other interior vinyl.
Treating your doorseals helps prevent the doors freezing shut.

Red95FD

iTrader: (3)

Great write up, i will do this in the spring. My struts still hold the glass up but I need the glass to pop up.

I'm also going to have to figure out why pulling the lever to pop the glass is so stiff on mine. Maybe the latching mechanism needs grease, but I will be on that when the warm weather comes back.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to write this up.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

How does the switch for the light work? So the switch works with the new strut? As in it turns on automatically? Haven't really looked at it closely.

88SE_HI

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the write up, I just ordered a pair from Rockauto for $19.68 each. No free shipping but they had reasonable shipping rates to Hawaii.

jjandros

iTrader: (7)

No. It's still the stock light with the original rocker switch. The older style aftermarket struts were too wide to properly mount the light and the bottom plastic covers which is why I really like these. They're the first replacements for the FC hatch I've seen work properly at this price point.