rockman7

its like the 4th one I've put on my car and they keep going out. Now is it because there jumkyard" parts which can be worn, but better than 331$ from mazda. Could there be another system problem that could be causing the valve to keep blowing out. Or is it one of those things that Mazda f%*#@! up ha. Or also the water thermo sensor on the end of it?

seventh_rx

does the fast idle valve adjust idle speed or does it regulate the rich/lean gas mixture? I ve been playing with it for the past couple of days and noticed that the rx has a bit more smoke comin out. Srry to steal the thread but i hate to post new threads on the same subject.

btw, is it the little screw on the top of the TB with the plastic cap over it?

bradenscreed

sure is...but i think it does little...just my past experiances, but every car acts difff

johnnyg

rockman7, what part are you talking about exactly??

seventh_rx, that screw allows a small amount of air past the throttle plates while they are closed at idle. In my experience, it will allow you to slow the idle down, but beyond a certain point, it won't speed it up. For my car, that's about 750 RPM or just below.

SureShot

The air bleed screw on top of the NA dynamic chamber is just to make minor tweaks to the idle speed after warm up.

The AWS (AKA fast idle solenoid) is a US feature to warm up the pre-cat. It's an on/off only valve.
The main fast idle warm up is run by a cam & thermo-wax worked by a coolant circuit.
The BAC (a duty solenoid) also helps with warm up fast idle.

If any of the above is faulty or mis-adjusted, your warm up idle may be wierd.

After you're warmed up, the throttle stop screw and the air bleed set the no-load idle.
The BAC handles loads while idling.

seventh_rx

ahh yes.. exatcly what has happened. Thanks!