The FC was never intended to be driven without the stock plastic ducting or with a front-mounted intercooler.

A radiator panel could help if you're missing the original plastic bits that went there. I don't have them, myself.

well this is getting on my nerve half people on here say they got no problem others dont post the vents that made.i got my injectors and rtek in other day and it runs really good pulls hard 13psi . but i cant get full 4th gear pull cause i see these temps rising. only under boost. so im gonna put the stock under tray back on tommarow . and i think making holes in my nissan quest fan shourd help? i have it set to a switch now on 2nd speed and need it on all the time on highway . i dont feel like making a sheet metal ducct when i can just throw the stuck undertray on and cut it up somehow . and i do have all the original plasctics on the stop were the relays and coolant tank is

Get. Temperature. Gauges. You don't even know if you have a problem until you get real numbers.

+1

I believe you will see positive results making some cuts in the Quest fan shroud. As stated previously it hugs the FC rad and when trimmed to fit snuggly it does not afford any opportunity for air to bypass the ran blades which ultimately hurts flow.

Alternatively you could look for some relief flaps such as those found on stock volvo fan shrouds. They would allow air to bypass the fan at highway speeds but still seal at lower speeds.

Good thing I didnt hold my breath waiting on you. I figured after your third email promising to paypal me, you were just wasting my time :icon_tdow

On to your issue, some FMIC will cause what you are "suspecting". For starters, put the undertray back on, and get a water temp, and an oil temp. With a setup similar to what you have, if the FMIC is blocking the air to the radiator, it is also blocking air to the oil cooler. In my experience, the oil temo will follow the water temps, when running a FMIC that blocks too much air.

well i orderd the injectors last monday cause no 1 answerd me lol . but anyways today i put the stock under tray back on and left the front of it open . like a mouth to force air into it....almost the same today was cooler so it took a lil longer to get hot on highwayonce again only under boost... tommarow im going to dyno . but yea it still gets hot doing a nice hard 4th gear pull . so if i make holes in the the fan shroud lets see. if not then im out of ideas. im getting my aluminum rad fixed this week hopefullly lets see if it makes a diffrence. and i wanted to try water wetter . but i dont even think any of that will get wat i want . next also i will have to remove the ac condensor . after this im lost

so far i have
1. hood tilt
2. made a duct going towards oil cooler
3. put fan on 2nd speed on a switch
4. put the undertray back on and made the front of it open so more air gets forced in
car doesnt build crazy pressure no smoke nothing like that only getting hot underboost on highway . i can do 1000 1st to 3rd gear redline pulls and temp stays low . as soon as i do a nice 4th gear - 5th gear lil boost pull i just see the needle creeping slowly. im gonna have to get a temp gauge this weekend

The hood tilt is bullshit IMO..
Just some Honda-fad that i've seen no scientific proof off.. ever..

It is a high pressure area near the windscreen, so no hot air is getting out
Instead you create an airflow into the engine bay..
If it does anything at all, i suspect it is disrupting the normal hot air flow from front to back and possibly cause even higher temps

If anyone can prove me wrong, please do!

Start with getting at least a coolant temp gauge (preferably digital) so you can see your actual temps. kinda weird that you are getting higher temps with increased airspeed to your rad.

well i can feel alot of hot air being released from the sides of the hood with the tilt

^ while at highway speeds?

well im, not gonna stick my head out the window or hand to see lol . but driving low speeds or stop n go i can feel the efan blowing the hot air rigght out

I had this problem and it was a bad coolant seal I would get hot while driving and when I would hit a stop sign or red light with the fan on it would cool right down, Exhaust gasses were getting into the collant and heating it up. especialy under boost.

It's a high pressure zone so it's forcing air into the engine bay.
This has a benefit of flushing out stagnant or hot engine bay air

The DOWNSIDE is that you have increased the pressure behind the radiator making it harder to push air from the front of the radiator to the back/engine bay.

Do it correct and get an extraction vent hood. It will suck air out of the engine bay and help create a negative pressure zone behind the radiator.

For starters, what is the cfm rate of the nissan quest fan? Why getto rig it to a switch for the 2nd speed?

how is putting a nice swtich to my fan ghetto??? . first every 1 bitches about me leaving it on 1st speed all the time so i put it to 2nd speed with a switch so when im driving around city and to the dude that says coolant seals..sorry my coolant is nice and clean dont overheat . just gets a lil hot when hitting boost. the motor only has 1k on it now broken in so its nothing internal . and no smoke or anyleaks like i said . motor pulls hard . on that note i found the pinch hole in my rad im gonna try to get fixed today and drain the coolant add more water and water wetter , and cut the shroud up for the to go threw the rad and remove my ac condesor . if all that stuff doesnt do it. im done . top mount is going back on and running low boost .

Cause a manual switch for something like that is ghetto. Have you tested the fan on the 2nd speed while attempting to recreate the problem?

First off, learn to use proper grammar when typing posts. You will get more consideration if people don't have to decipher your words and you present yourself as someone other than a 16 year-old texting on his iPhone.

A switch is ghetto because this is flyingspaghettimonster-dammned 2012. There is truly no good reason why fan control should not be completely automatic. The car should be able to keep itself cool without driver input, barring material failure. Soldering irons are cheap, relays are cheaper and the internet has the cheapest information around. Clokker has a writeup that borders on brilliant in regards to solving two-speed fan control, and the fan relay out of a Volvo, with the connectors cost me $10 from a junkyard. And barring that, automatic fan controller kits are $28 from the auto parts stores.

That you need any fan at all on the highway clearly illustrates that your problem is ducting and airflow. There is no reason in the slightest why you should need a fan at highway speeds.
-If you haven't already, reinstall the stock undertray. Mazda put it there for a reason. Or make a new one. My local hardware store sells aluminum and mild steel sheet for fair prices, check yours.
-The hood tilt works for Japanese togue dorifto-mastas because they never go faster than 30mph, and it's usually sideways to boot. At highway speeds, you have alot of pressure at the base of the windshield and as others have mentioned, you're fighting what little air makes it through the radiator because of it. If you can't find any good hood vents, the webbing on the underside of the hood makes a good pattern for cutting out vents, and hardware stores also sell mesh to fill in the gaps.

before u decide to go off on me read the whole thread if not keep it moving . i did put the undertray back on .and my fan is done the right way with a relay just dont know were to get a temp switch to make it turn on at certain temp thats all. im just confused on how every 1 has front mounts no 1 has problems. its ok if im just gonna get bashed my the whole forum then its wat ever i did all the work myself on my car im sure ill get to the end of it by this weekend thanks guys .

Because like everything, not all inercooler were created equal, besides, you are contradicting yourself. From your very first post:

If you searched, and found that others are reporting similar issues, then you cant be the only one... :lol:

ok well today im gonna go get my aluminum rad fixed and try water wetter and cut the fan shroud so air flows through. ill beback later let u guys know what happends

ok so today i finially did everything i had too..my relay ended up melting btw a 60 amp one ..pretty gay . but i fixed my crack aluminum rad . threw it in with my nissan quest efan . still wired to a switch inside my car till i find a temp switch for it . took the ac condensor out with the small electric fan . open the front of the undertray like a mouth to force air in , water wetter . SO FAR SO GOOD . took it on a nice little beat run on highway stays at quater temp on the stock gauge . 12psi steady . never overheated once underboost or got hot . so yea i think my problem is solved . now let see for the 90+ degree days wat happends

How/why did you melt a 60amp fuse that is concerning. Its good that your temps are down, removing obstructions to the rad becomes even more important when you reduce the velocity of incoming air w/a front mount.

Btw, that fan that you removed already has wiring that runs to a factory temp switch....

Not sure why that's "gay" but it is definitely fucked up and indicates a problem with your install.
For reference, I've run just about every efan that fits our rad- up to and including the monster 18" Lincoln fan- and never blown the 30A fuse protecting the system.
If you melted a relay rated at twice that, something's wrong.

only thing i can think of is cheap relay , im gonna wire a bmw one i have laying aroung should be all set . hopefully the relay was really a 60 amp one .

I hate to bring this this thread back to life. I finally got the rx7 back on the road last night. anyway I have all the goodies to keep my rad cool. just for a reference I have a Power FC (so i have a digital readout of the temps)

-undertray
-rad panel
-taurus 2 speed fan
-I trimmed the bumper to fit the fmic
-shine lip

Anyway, driving to work yesterday everything was fine, apart from one little problem. my fan is set to turn on at 89*c and it would turn on but the coolant temp would sit around 90*c

On the way home (it was hot out 30*c) the temp kept climbing and climbing.
anyway I got home and I was borderline overheating the buzzer went off as I pulled in the driveway. I did an overheat inspection, no smoke, no bubbles in the coolant fill line. So far so good.

long story short the relay was burnt.

Now my predicament is, should i go back to the stock clutch fan and avoid all future electrical problems? or should the taurus fan be plenty? I've read that the stock fan will work as well as any e-fan you can find. I feel as if the fan is not able to keep the temps low enough as it always seems to be on when i'm driving. it was fine before installing the FMIC. (I know it's like closing a door to my rad but im not going back to top-mount-inter-heater)

If i keep my e-fan should I lower the trigger temp or raise it? I assume there would be a point where airflow alone will maintain a certain cooling effect on the highway, which may only be a couple degrees higher than the 87* it is set to now. This way I wont burn out another relay