EVERY ONE WITH FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLERS . please post in here
 

i see alot of threads on front mounts making car run hotter cause of air being blocked in front . i have a front mount myself . seems liek no 1 post up pics of there way of venting the radiators . i have a nissan quest fan on low speed all time ,cars stays at quater temp at idle or driving around normal . when i start boosting 6psi on highway temps starts rising quick . so far it doesnt really get hot just pass half temp on stock gauge . but if i stop no boosting it runs cold . so if any one has pictures of there front mount intercoolers and custom ducts for radiator or oither things they did to make it run at normal temp no matter how u drive the car please post. thanks

undercut the bottom opening of the cowl radiator opening on the front bumper, this allows more pressure in front of the car to force more air into the opening to cool the whole intercooler core and then the radiator.

it's difficult to get pictures of the ducting between the radiator and intercooler because it is enclosed. ideally you want to seal off the passage between the intercooler and radiator core completely, this just takes common sense to accomplish and can be done many ways.

my IC is unlike many others, since it sits in the engine bay and right in front of the radiator, no ducting. i hate chopping up perfectly fine cars. i also run a stock radiator on a 350WHP car, but the IC core is a tad on the restrictive side for this turbo capable of 600whp.

see my problem is i need a pic. i cant picture that at all . i made one duct going towards the oilcooler just a peice of sheet metal at angle towards it . helped it out nore i took the undercarrage plastic offthats about it

I run a FMIC with AC, koyo, new stock fan clutch. water temps stay at or just below 180*F. Oil temps go up on the highway but not the water. Only ducting is the factory undertray.

So your thermostat never fully opens?

Halfbridge 76mm with koyo radiator and big front mount,it has a stock s5 fan and shroud no under belly pan or big holes on the bumper,220 max temps if i am beating the crap out of it,in traffic runs cooler.My secret a 190 degree tstat,working stock fan clutch,stock radiator fan shroud,big ass koyo radiator and of course a well maintened cooling sistem.My intercooler is a ebay one and it covers the radiator fron top 2 botton and it sits were the stock crash bar used 2 be mounted.

you took off the plastic undertray? why? i explained earlier how the air SHOULD be directed.

you will notice temps go UP without the undertray on..

I wish i have a undertray on mine but mine got stolen when the car was geeting painted and nobody wants 2 ship them cause they are big:(
Karack is right if you remove yours put it back on!

ok im gonna put it back on . i feel like it ran cooler with it off lol . so i have to cut it were? right under radiator? i littery cut 3 peiced of sheet metal . i put 2 on the side and one at angle going strait towards the oilcooler. so far so good tho it just jumps pass the half mark on temp gauge ONLY when im on it hard on highway . other than that cars runs really cool when not boosting on highway in traffic it runs quater temp

So, in actuality you have no idea what your coolant temp is.

if it's an S5 cluster then that isn't abnormal, if it's an S4 then it is about 215F at half way which isn't abnormal for a FMIC on the highway mid-summer pushing it a bit.

S5 normally runs a wide range and stays at the half way mark on the gauge, if it is running 1/4 on a S5 gauge then it is actually too cool(below 170F) and 1/2 is normal up to about 225F where it then will start to climb.

1/4 on the S4 gauge is about 185F and is considered normal range for a stock car.

225F and above is where you should begin to be concerned, but an aftermarket gauge takes the guesswork out of it.

I have the same front mount and I had cooling issues but the seemed to be under control first thing before u continue get a water temp gauge.

2. Under tray is a must to maintain AIR FLOW
3. Ducting, use foil tape or hvac putty to seal off around the rad, the gap between rad & rad support.
4. Clutch fan with shroud or Taurus 2 speed on high
5. Water wetter
6. Vented hood, the hood scoops actually traps the heat under hood. I got the JDM reverse vent scoop.

So far this is working in ambient temp 29 deg. 38 deg humidity hot and thick air

Beating on it for a few mins temp rises faster I would like but max temp so far 202

Hybrid

im gonna vent hood this week and put the undertray on . so far its hasnt been past half mark its a s4 t2 guage.. just creeps a bit past it when on it hard on highway , but im only on 6psi and havnt redline it yet . thats why im worrired but yea i guess i can try these ideas . i just want to see how people duct the undertray

Get aftermarket oil and water temp gauges. If it doesn't go to dangerous temps, what's the problem?

Running an electric fan on low all the time is a bad idea. You need to run it off a thermostat. It's better for it to run at full blast only when it gets hot than to run at low all the time.

A hood vent would take care of most heating problems... and jacking the hood hinges up a bit would help.

A Japanese FC driver I met told me his custom air box (he has fixed headlights and an air duct where the stock headlight was) lowers his temperatures 20 C, or about 52 degrees F. He had a stock intercooler though.

yes thats my plan with fan get a thermoswitch for the 2nd speed . when it gets warm and hood tilte . should be good then im only scared cars just gonna get hotter when im on twice the boost lol

Cruising around gauge sits just below 180*, hard driving--> 180* or just above.

The thermostat STARTS opening a 185* so if you are cruising around below 180 its not open, and if it barley gets above 180 it might still not be open. What it sounds like is that you are not running a thermostat at all, or perhaps an underated theromostat 165* perhaps? Water wetter?



To the OP a very big part of your problem is the foolish notion of running an efan (especially the villager fan) all the time. A (powered) fan actually represents a significant restriction to airflow at highway speeds compared to the amount of air that could pass through your heat exchangers if it were allowed to free-spin. Further compounding your problem is the highly effective (at low speeds) shroud found on the villager e-fan. It has no vents or flaps to bypass air at higher flow rates and acts as a bottle next for air flowing through the radiator. Additionally it is low profile and hugs the back of the rad, this makes it harder for air to pass through the rad which slows velocity behind the FMIC which discourages air from passing through either one.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/e-fans-interstate-how-effective-they-really-918956/



On the interstate I can tell when the fans turn off because there is a significant drop in temps. The efan(s) are set to come on at 195* and off at 185* ; temps will stay at 185-190* for a few miles (after driving in the city @ 190*+) because the spinning of the fans restrict airflow, but eventually it will cool to the point where they shut off and temps quickly drop below 180* and stay there as long as I'm moving faster than 50mph or so.
*edit* My temps are on a vmic but the principle is the same.

so wat did u do to ur fan? tommarow im about to wire the 2nd speed to a switch and just turn it on when im on highway . when im driving normal today was really hot 90+ degrees and it warmed up really quick and gets a lil too hot building boost on highway . so idk wat do . my stock clutch fan is bad so idk .. i want to keep efan but no 1 with front mount is posting up there ducting like i wanted

If you need your fan on while driving on the highway that is a sign of a bigger problem. A properly ducted (stock) car will move substantially more air through the radiator at highway speeds than any fan could hope to pull or push.

Check out the build thread section, there is a guy from Europe who just fabbed up some ducting for his FMIC.

*Edit*
Its really not that hard, or expensive, check this out... https://www.google.com/url?q=http://...O82b13FwC45Elw

like i said i put it on 2nd speed . hood tilt on highway good temp...start boosting starts rising . driving around the city perfect . so i need to make ducts . wat did u do to yours? im about to put my stock undertray back on but idk i feel like thats not gonna do anything . i know theres alot of high hp guys in here with front mounts no problem.

Think about it logically. Do you want air forced through the IC/radiator/oil cooler, or allow that air to follow the path of least resistance underneath them.

A front lip and/or splitter might also help. Anything that makes the bumper more scoop shaped.

I've been told that (in theory) a vented hood also gives you some front downforce. Which is especially nice on an understeer-prone car like an FC or a car with an excessively light front end like an MR-2.

The more air that come out of the back, the more air gets sucked through the front.

Kind of have to wonder where all that air goes on a stock FC to begin with...besides out of the bottom of the back of the engine bay, which is the worst place it could go.

i do . but the front mount is still there . blocking most of it . the undertray to me is not doing much . neaither i made one dutch from bottom of front mount into the oilcooler . now ima make a duct going strait to rad like the factory undertray but cut in half basically forcing all the air into rad .

Sounds like a plan. Report back with results.

I considered doing something similar since the v/mount fans blow air down instead of back. I planned to cut the under tray after the oil cooler to aid with expelling hot air from the engine bay but I couldn't figure out a good way to mount the cut under tray. Now that I have some actually ducting in front of (and on the sides of) the rad and IC temps are fine.

The under tray won't hurt performance if the rest of your setup is working properly

what about the radiator panel that goes in between the headlights. Try and keep as much "stock" ducting as possible. It was engineered to flow air through the engine bay. Just for an example Piston powered aircraft are not allowed to do ground runs without the engine covers installed. They are designed to duct air to the proper parts of the engine. They run significantly higher without the covers installed.

Just because it may look like it will flow better doesn't necissarily mean so.