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-   -   EVERY ONE WITH FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLERS . please post in here (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/every-one-front-mount-intercoolers-please-post-here-1001953/)

bmwrx7man 06-16-12 09:36 PM

EVERY ONE WITH FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLERS . please post in here
 
i see alot of threads on front mounts making car run hotter cause of air being blocked in front . i have a front mount myself . seems liek no 1 post up pics of there way of venting the radiators . i have a nissan quest fan on low speed all time ,cars stays at quater temp at idle or driving around normal . when i start boosting 6psi on highway temps starts rising quick . so far it doesnt really get hot just pass half temp on stock gauge . but if i stop no boosting it runs cold . so if any one has pictures of there front mount intercoolers and custom ducts for radiator or oither things they did to make it run at normal temp no matter how u drive the car please post. thanks

RotaryEvolution 06-16-12 10:02 PM

undercut the bottom opening of the cowl radiator opening on the front bumper, this allows more pressure in front of the car to force more air into the opening to cool the whole intercooler core and then the radiator.

it's difficult to get pictures of the ducting between the radiator and intercooler because it is enclosed. ideally you want to seal off the passage between the intercooler and radiator core completely, this just takes common sense to accomplish and can be done many ways.

my IC is unlike many others, since it sits in the engine bay and right in front of the radiator, no ducting. i hate chopping up perfectly fine cars. i also run a stock radiator on a 350WHP car, but the IC core is a tad on the restrictive side for this turbo capable of 600whp.

bmwrx7man 06-16-12 10:11 PM

see my problem is i need a pic. i cant picture that at all . i made one duct going towards the oilcooler just a peice of sheet metal at angle towards it . helped it out nore i took the undercarrage plastic offthats about it

hungery4rice 06-17-12 09:39 AM

I run a FMIC with AC, koyo, new stock fan clutch. water temps stay at or just below 180*F. Oil temps go up on the highway but not the water. Only ducting is the factory undertray.

clokker 06-17-12 09:47 AM


Originally Posted by hungery4rice (Post 11127383)
I run a FMIC with AC, koyo, new stock fan clutch. water temps stay at or just below 180*F. Oil temps go up on the highway but not the water. Only ducting is the factory undertray.

So your thermostat never fully opens?

joeylyrech 06-17-12 10:06 AM

Halfbridge 76mm with koyo radiator and big front mount,it has a stock s5 fan and shroud no under belly pan or big holes on the bumper,220 max temps if i am beating the crap out of it,in traffic runs cooler.My secret a 190 degree tstat,working stock fan clutch,stock radiator fan shroud,big ass koyo radiator and of course a well maintened cooling sistem.My intercooler is a ebay one and it covers the radiator fron top 2 botton and it sits were the stock crash bar used 2 be mounted.

RotaryEvolution 06-17-12 12:08 PM

you took off the plastic undertray? why? i explained earlier how the air SHOULD be directed.

you will notice temps go UP without the undertray on..

joeylyrech 06-17-12 01:25 PM

I wish i have a undertray on mine but mine got stolen when the car was geeting painted and nobody wants 2 ship them cause they are big:(
Karack is right if you remove yours put it back on!

bmwrx7man 06-17-12 01:34 PM

ok im gonna put it back on . i feel like it ran cooler with it off lol . so i have to cut it were? right under radiator? i littery cut 3 peiced of sheet metal . i put 2 on the side and one at angle going strait towards the oilcooler. so far so good tho it just jumps pass the half mark on temp gauge ONLY when im on it hard on highway . other than that cars runs really cool when not boosting on highway in traffic it runs quater temp

clokker 06-17-12 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by bmwrx7man (Post 11127609)
... it just jumps pass the half mark on temp gauge ONLY when im on it hard ...on highway in traffic it runs quater temp

So, in actuality you have no idea what your coolant temp is.

RotaryEvolution 06-17-12 02:32 PM

if it's an S5 cluster then that isn't abnormal, if it's an S4 then it is about 215F at half way which isn't abnormal for a FMIC on the highway mid-summer pushing it a bit.

S5 normally runs a wide range and stays at the half way mark on the gauge, if it is running 1/4 on a S5 gauge then it is actually too cool(below 170F) and 1/2 is normal up to about 225F where it then will start to climb.

1/4 on the S4 gauge is about 185F and is considered normal range for a stock car.

225F and above is where you should begin to be concerned, but an aftermarket gauge takes the guesswork out of it.

Hybrid G 06-17-12 10:04 PM

I have the same front mount and I had cooling issues but the seemed to be under control first thing before u continue get a water temp gauge.

2. Under tray is a must to maintain AIR FLOW
3. Ducting, use foil tape or hvac putty to seal off around the rad, the gap between rad & rad support.
4. Clutch fan with shroud or Taurus 2 speed on high
5. Water wetter
6. Vented hood, the hood scoops actually traps the heat under hood. I got the JDM reverse vent scoop.

So far this is working in ambient temp 29 deg. 38 deg humidity hot and thick air

Beating on it for a few mins temp rises faster I would like but max temp so far 202

Hybrid

bmwrx7man 06-18-12 02:15 AM

im gonna vent hood this week and put the undertray on . so far its hasnt been past half mark its a s4 t2 guage.. just creeps a bit past it when on it hard on highway , but im only on 6psi and havnt redline it yet . thats why im worrired but yea i guess i can try these ideas . i just want to see how people duct the undertray

Valkyrie 06-18-12 03:41 AM

Get aftermarket oil and water temp gauges. If it doesn't go to dangerous temps, what's the problem?

Running an electric fan on low all the time is a bad idea. You need to run it off a thermostat. It's better for it to run at full blast only when it gets hot than to run at low all the time.

A hood vent would take care of most heating problems... and jacking the hood hinges up a bit would help.

A Japanese FC driver I met told me his custom air box (he has fixed headlights and an air duct where the stock headlight was) lowers his temperatures 20 C, or about 52 degrees F. He had a stock intercooler though.

bmwrx7man 06-18-12 12:00 PM


Originally Posted by Valkyrie (Post 11128317)
Get aftermarket oil and water temp gauges. If it doesn't go to dangerous temps, what's the problem?

Running an electric fan on low all the time is a bad idea. You need to run it off a thermostat. It's better for it to run at full blast only when it gets hot than to run at low all the time.

A hood vent would take care of most heating problems... and jacking the hood hinges up a bit would help.

A Japanese FC driver I met told me his custom air box (he has fixed headlights and an air duct where the stock headlight was) lowers his temperatures 20 C, or about 52 degrees F. He had a stock intercooler though.

yes thats my plan with fan get a thermoswitch for the 2nd speed . when it gets warm and hood tilte . should be good then im only scared cars just gonna get hotter when im on twice the boost lol

hungery4rice 06-18-12 08:43 PM


Originally Posted by clokker (Post 11127390)
So your thermostat never fully opens?


Cruising around gauge sits just below 180*, hard driving--> 180* or just above.

sharingan 19 06-20-12 10:06 AM


Originally Posted by hungery4rice (Post 11129262)
Cruising around gauge sits just below 180*, hard driving--> 180* or just above.

The thermostat STARTS opening a 185* so if you are cruising around below 180 its not open, and if it barley gets above 180 it might still not be open. What it sounds like is that you are not running a thermostat at all, or perhaps an underated theromostat 165* perhaps? Water wetter?



To the OP a very big part of your problem is the foolish notion of running an efan (especially the villager fan) all the time. A (powered) fan actually represents a significant restriction to airflow at highway speeds compared to the amount of air that could pass through your heat exchangers if it were allowed to free-spin. Further compounding your problem is the highly effective (at low speeds) shroud found on the villager e-fan. It has no vents or flaps to bypass air at higher flow rates and acts as a bottle next for air flowing through the radiator. Additionally it is low profile and hugs the back of the rad, this makes it harder for air to pass through the rad which slows velocity behind the FMIC which discourages air from passing through either one.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/e-fans-interstate-how-effective-they-really-918956/



On the interstate I can tell when the fans turn off because there is a significant drop in temps. The efan(s) are set to come on at 195* and off at 185* ; temps will stay at 185-190* for a few miles (after driving in the city @ 190*+) because the spinning of the fans restrict airflow, but eventually it will cool to the point where they shut off and temps quickly drop below 180* and stay there as long as I'm moving faster than 50mph or so.
*edit* My temps are on a vmic but the principle is the same.

bmwrx7man 06-21-12 12:33 AM

so wat did u do to ur fan? tommarow im about to wire the 2nd speed to a switch and just turn it on when im on highway . when im driving normal today was really hot 90+ degrees and it warmed up really quick and gets a lil too hot building boost on highway . so idk wat do . my stock clutch fan is bad so idk .. i want to keep efan but no 1 with front mount is posting up there ducting like i wanted

sharingan 19 06-21-12 06:18 PM

If you need your fan on while driving on the highway that is a sign of a bigger problem. A properly ducted (stock) car will move substantially more air through the radiator at highway speeds than any fan could hope to pull or push.

Check out the build thread section, there is a guy from Europe who just fabbed up some ducting for his FMIC.

*Edit*
Its really not that hard, or expensive, check this out... https://www.google.com/url?q=http://...O82b13FwC45Elw

bmwrx7man 06-21-12 07:47 PM

like i said i put it on 2nd speed . hood tilt on highway good temp...start boosting starts rising . driving around the city perfect . so i need to make ducts . wat did u do to yours? im about to put my stock undertray back on but idk i feel like thats not gonna do anything . i know theres alot of high hp guys in here with front mounts no problem.

HOZZMANRX7 06-21-12 08:16 PM


Originally Posted by bmwrx7man (Post 11132695)
like i said i put it on 2nd speed . hood tilt on highway good temp...start boosting starts rising . driving around the city perfect . so i need to make ducts . wat did u do to yours? im about to put my stock undertray back on but idk i feel like thats not gonna do anything . i know theres alot of high hp guys in here with front mounts no problem.


Think about it logically. Do you want air forced through the IC/radiator/oil cooler, or allow that air to follow the path of least resistance underneath them.

Valkyrie 06-21-12 08:48 PM

A front lip and/or splitter might also help. Anything that makes the bumper more scoop shaped.

I've been told that (in theory) a vented hood also gives you some front downforce. Which is especially nice on an understeer-prone car like an FC or a car with an excessively light front end like an MR-2.

The more air that come out of the back, the more air gets sucked through the front.

Kind of have to wonder where all that air goes on a stock FC to begin with...besides out of the bottom of the back of the engine bay, which is the worst place it could go.

bmwrx7man 06-21-12 08:50 PM

i do . but the front mount is still there . blocking most of it . the undertray to me is not doing much . neaither i made one dutch from bottom of front mount into the oilcooler . now ima make a duct going strait to rad like the factory undertray but cut in half basically forcing all the air into rad .

sharingan 19 06-22-12 06:23 AM

Sounds like a plan. Report back with results.

I considered doing something similar since the v/mount fans blow air down instead of back. I planned to cut the under tray after the oil cooler to aid with expelling hot air from the engine bay but I couldn't figure out a good way to mount the cut under tray. Now that I have some actually ducting in front of (and on the sides of) the rad and IC temps are fine.

The under tray won't hurt performance if the rest of your setup is working properly

AmT_T 06-22-12 06:42 AM

what about the radiator panel that goes in between the headlights. Try and keep as much "stock" ducting as possible. It was engineered to flow air through the engine bay. Just for an example Piston powered aircraft are not allowed to do ground runs without the engine covers installed. They are designed to duct air to the proper parts of the engine. They run significantly higher without the covers installed.

Just because it may look like it will flow better doesn't necissarily mean so.

Valkyrie 06-22-12 12:27 PM

The FC was never intended to be driven without the stock plastic ducting or with a front-mounted intercooler.

A radiator panel could help if you're missing the original plastic bits that went there. I don't have them, myself.

bmwrx7man 06-25-12 01:17 AM

well this is getting on my nerve half people on here say they got no problem others dont post the vents that made.i got my injectors and rtek in other day and it runs really good pulls hard 13psi . but i cant get full 4th gear pull cause i see these temps rising. only under boost. so im gonna put the stock under tray back on tommarow . and i think making holes in my nissan quest fan shourd help? i have it set to a switch now on 2nd speed and need it on all the time on highway . i dont feel like making a sheet metal ducct when i can just throw the stuck undertray on and cut it up somehow . and i do have all the original plasctics on the stop were the relays and coolant tank is

Valkyrie 06-25-12 08:10 PM

Get. Temperature. Gauges. You don't even know if you have a problem until you get real numbers.

sharingan 19 06-25-12 08:25 PM


Originally Posted by Valkyrie (Post 11136952)
Get. Temperature. Gauges. You don't even know if you have a problem until you get real numbers.

+1

I believe you will see positive results making some cuts in the Quest fan shroud. As stated previously it hugs the FC rad and when trimmed to fit snuggly it does not afford any opportunity for air to bypass the ran blades which ultimately hurts flow.

Alternatively you could look for some relief flaps such as those found on stock volvo fan shrouds. They would allow air to bypass the fan at highway speeds but still seal at lower speeds.

KNONFS 06-25-12 08:49 PM


Originally Posted by bmwrx7man (Post 11136081)
well this is getting on my nerve half people on here say they got no problem others dont post the vents that made.i got my injectors and rtek in other day and it runs really good pulls hard 13psi . but i cant get full 4th gear pull cause i see these temps rising. only under boost. so im gonna put the stock under tray back on tommarow . and i think making holes in my nissan quest fan shourd help? i have it set to a switch now on 2nd speed and need it on all the time on highway . i dont feel like making a sheet metal ducct when i can just throw the stuck undertray on and cut it up somehow . and i do have all the original plasctics on the stop were the relays and coolant tank is

Good thing I didnt hold my breath waiting on you. I figured after your third email promising to paypal me, you were just wasting my time :icon_tdow

On to your issue, some FMIC will cause what you are "suspecting". For starters, put the undertray back on, and get a water temp, and an oil temp. With a setup similar to what you have, if the FMIC is blocking the air to the radiator, it is also blocking air to the oil cooler. In my experience, the oil temo will follow the water temps, when running a FMIC that blocks too much air.

bmwrx7man 06-25-12 11:41 PM

well i orderd the injectors last monday cause no 1 answerd me lol . but anyways today i put the stock under tray back on and left the front of it open . like a mouth to force air into it....almost the same today was cooler so it took a lil longer to get hot on highwayonce again only under boost... tommarow im going to dyno . but yea it still gets hot doing a nice hard 4th gear pull . so if i make holes in the the fan shroud lets see. if not then im out of ideas. im getting my aluminum rad fixed this week hopefullly lets see if it makes a diffrence. and i wanted to try water wetter . but i dont even think any of that will get wat i want . next also i will have to remove the ac condensor . after this im lost

so far i have
1. hood tilt
2. made a duct going towards oil cooler
3. put fan on 2nd speed on a switch
4. put the undertray back on and made the front of it open so more air gets forced in
car doesnt build crazy pressure no smoke nothing like that only getting hot underboost on highway . i can do 1000 1st to 3rd gear redline pulls and temp stays low . as soon as i do a nice 4th gear - 5th gear lil boost pull i just see the needle creeping slowly. im gonna have to get a temp gauge this weekend

Furb 06-26-12 05:28 AM

The hood tilt is bullshit IMO..
Just some Honda-fad that i've seen no scientific proof off.. ever..

It is a high pressure area near the windscreen, so no hot air is getting out
Instead you create an airflow into the engine bay..
If it does anything at all, i suspect it is disrupting the normal hot air flow from front to back and possibly cause even higher temps

If anyone can prove me wrong, please do!

AmT_T 06-26-12 09:22 AM

Start with getting at least a coolant temp gauge (preferably digital) so you can see your actual temps. kinda weird that you are getting higher temps with increased airspeed to your rad.

bmwrx7man 06-26-12 10:34 AM

well i can feel alot of hot air being released from the sides of the hood with the tilt

barkz 06-26-12 10:45 AM

^ while at highway speeds?

bmwrx7man 06-26-12 11:01 AM

well im, not gonna stick my head out the window or hand to see lol . but driving low speeds or stop n go i can feel the efan blowing the hot air rigght out

barnett87rx7 06-26-12 12:08 PM


Originally Posted by AmT_T (Post 11137542)
Start with getting at least a coolant temp gauge (preferably digital) so you can see your actual temps. kinda weird that you are getting higher temps with increased airspeed to your rad.

I had this problem and it was a bad coolant seal I would get hot while driving and when I would hit a stop sign or red light with the fan on it would cool right down, Exhaust gasses were getting into the collant and heating it up. especialy under boost.

Digi7ech 06-26-12 12:37 PM


Originally Posted by bmwrx7man (Post 11137646)
well im, not gonna stick my head out the window or hand to see lol . but driving low speeds or stop n go i can feel the efan blowing the hot air rigght out

It's a high pressure zone so it's forcing air into the engine bay.
This has a benefit of flushing out stagnant or hot engine bay air

The DOWNSIDE is that you have increased the pressure behind the radiator making it harder to push air from the front of the radiator to the back/engine bay.

Do it correct and get an extraction vent hood. It will suck air out of the engine bay and help create a negative pressure zone behind the radiator.

KNONFS 06-26-12 03:20 PM

For starters, what is the cfm rate of the nissan quest fan? Why getto rig it to a switch for the 2nd speed?

bmwrx7man 06-26-12 03:29 PM


Originally Posted by KNONFS (Post 11137908)
For starters, what is the cfm rate of the nissan quest fan? Why getto rig it to a switch for the 2nd speed?

how is putting a nice swtich to my fan ghetto??? . first every 1 bitches about me leaving it on 1st speed all the time so i put it to 2nd speed with a switch so when im driving around city and to the dude that says coolant seals..sorry my coolant is nice and clean dont overheat . just gets a lil hot when hitting boost. the motor only has 1k on it now broken in so its nothing internal . and no smoke or anyleaks like i said . motor pulls hard . on that note i found the pinch hole in my rad im gonna try to get fixed today and drain the coolant add more water and water wetter , and cut the shroud up for the to go threw the rad and remove my ac condesor . if all that stuff doesnt do it. im done . top mount is going back on and running low boost .

KNONFS 06-26-12 04:02 PM


Originally Posted by bmwrx7man (Post 11137918)
how is putting a nice swtich to my fan ghetto??? . first every 1 bitches about me leaving it on 1st speed all the time so i put it to 2nd speed with a switch so when im driving around city and to the dude that says coolant seals..sorry my coolant is nice and clean dont overheat . just gets a lil hot when hitting boost. the motor only has 1k on it now broken in so its nothing internal . and no smoke or anyleaks like i said . motor pulls hard . on that note i found the pinch hole in my rad im gonna try to get fixed today and drain the coolant add more water and water wetter , and cut the shroud up for the to go threw the rad and remove my ac condesor . if all that stuff doesnt do it. im done . top mount is going back on and running low boost .

Cause a manual switch for something like that is ghetto. Have you tested the fan on the 2nd speed while attempting to recreate the problem?

TheGloriousTachikoma 06-26-12 04:28 PM


Originally Posted by bmwrx7man (Post 11137918)
how is putting a nice swtich to my fan ghetto??? . first every 1 bitches about me leaving it on 1st speed all the time so i put it to 2nd speed with a switch so when im driving around city

First off, learn to use proper grammar when typing posts. You will get more consideration if people don't have to decipher your words and you present yourself as someone other than a 16 year-old texting on his iPhone.

A switch is ghetto because this is flyingspaghettimonster-dammned 2012. There is truly no good reason why fan control should not be completely automatic. The car should be able to keep itself cool without driver input, barring material failure. Soldering irons are cheap, relays are cheaper and the internet has the cheapest information around. Clokker has a writeup that borders on brilliant in regards to solving two-speed fan control, and the fan relay out of a Volvo, with the connectors cost me $10 from a junkyard. And barring that, automatic fan controller kits are $28 from the auto parts stores.

That you need any fan at all on the highway clearly illustrates that your problem is ducting and airflow. There is no reason in the slightest why you should need a fan at highway speeds.
-If you haven't already, reinstall the stock undertray. Mazda put it there for a reason. Or make a new one. My local hardware store sells aluminum and mild steel sheet for fair prices, check yours.
-The hood tilt works for Japanese togue dorifto-mastas because they never go faster than 30mph, and it's usually sideways to boot. At highway speeds, you have alot of pressure at the base of the windshield and as others have mentioned, you're fighting what little air makes it through the radiator because of it. If you can't find any good hood vents, the webbing on the underside of the hood makes a good pattern for cutting out vents, and hardware stores also sell mesh to fill in the gaps.

bmwrx7man 06-26-12 05:16 PM


Originally Posted by TheGloriousTachikoma (Post 11137991)
First off, learn to use proper grammar when typing posts. You will get more consideration if people don't have to decipher your words and you present yourself as someone other than a 16 year-old texting on his iPhone.

A switch is ghetto because this is flyingspaghettimonster-dammned 2012. There is truly no good reason why fan control should not be completely automatic. The car should be able to keep itself cool without driver input, barring material failure. Soldering irons are cheap, relays are cheaper and the internet has the cheapest information around. Clokker has a writeup that borders on brilliant in regards to solving two-speed fan control, and the fan relay out of a Volvo, with the connectors cost me $10 from a junkyard. And barring that, automatic fan controller kits are $28 from the auto parts stores.

That you need any fan at all on the highway clearly illustrates that your problem is ducting and airflow. There is no reason in the slightest why you should need a fan at highway speeds.
-If you haven't already, reinstall the stock undertray. Mazda put it there for a reason. Or make a new one. My local hardware store sells aluminum and mild steel sheet for fair prices, check yours.
-The hood tilt works for Japanese togue dorifto-mastas because they never go faster than 30mph, and it's usually sideways to boot. At highway speeds, you have alot of pressure at the base of the windshield and as others have mentioned, you're fighting what little air makes it through the radiator because of it. If you can't find any good hood vents, the webbing on the underside of the hood makes a good pattern for cutting out vents, and hardware stores also sell mesh to fill in the gaps.

before u decide to go off on me read the whole thread if not keep it moving . i did put the undertray back on .and my fan is done the right way with a relay just dont know were to get a temp switch to make it turn on at certain temp thats all. im just confused on how every 1 has front mounts no 1 has problems. its ok if im just gonna get bashed my the whole forum then its wat ever i did all the work myself on my car im sure ill get to the end of it by this weekend thanks guys .

KNONFS 06-26-12 05:38 PM


Originally Posted by bmwrx7man (Post 11138047)
im just confused on how every 1 has front mounts no 1 has problems.

Because like everything, not all inercooler were created equal, besides, you are contradicting yourself. From your very first post:


Originally Posted by bmwrx7man (Post 11127024)
i see alot of threads on front mounts making car run hotter cause of air being blocked in front .

If you searched, and found that others are reporting similar issues, then you cant be the only one... :lol:

bmwrx7man 06-27-12 10:49 AM

ok well today im gonna go get my aluminum rad fixed and try water wetter and cut the fan shroud so air flows through. ill beback later let u guys know what happends

bmwrx7man 06-30-12 02:09 AM

ok so today i finially did everything i had too..my relay ended up melting btw a 60 amp one ..pretty gay . but i fixed my crack aluminum rad . threw it in with my nissan quest efan . still wired to a switch inside my car till i find a temp switch for it . took the ac condensor out with the small electric fan . open the front of the undertray like a mouth to force air in , water wetter . SO FAR SO GOOD . took it on a nice little beat run on highway stays at quater temp on the stock gauge . 12psi steady . never overheated once underboost or got hot . so yea i think my problem is solved . now let see for the 90+ degree days wat happends

sharingan 19 06-30-12 02:16 AM

How/why did you melt a 60amp fuse that is concerning. Its good that your temps are down, removing obstructions to the rad becomes even more important when you reduce the velocity of incoming air w/a front mount.

Btw, that fan that you removed already has wiring that runs to a factory temp switch....

clokker 06-30-12 06:21 AM


Originally Posted by bmwrx7man (Post 11141885)
ok so today i finially did everything i had too..my relay ended up melting btw a 60 amp one ..pretty gay .

Not sure why that's "gay" but it is definitely fucked up and indicates a problem with your install.
For reference, I've run just about every efan that fits our rad- up to and including the monster 18" Lincoln fan- and never blown the 30A fuse protecting the system.
If you melted a relay rated at twice that, something's wrong.

bmwrx7man 06-30-12 10:47 AM

only thing i can think of is cheap relay , im gonna wire a bmw one i have laying aroung should be all set . hopefully the relay was really a 60 amp one .

AmT_T 07-05-12 10:58 AM

I hate to bring this this thread back to life. I finally got the rx7 back on the road last night. anyway I have all the goodies to keep my rad cool. just for a reference I have a Power FC (so i have a digital readout of the temps)

-undertray
-rad panel
-taurus 2 speed fan
-I trimmed the bumper to fit the fmic
-shine lip

Anyway, driving to work yesterday everything was fine, apart from one little problem. my fan is set to turn on at 89*c and it would turn on but the coolant temp would sit around 90*c

On the way home (it was hot out 30*c) the temp kept climbing and climbing.
anyway I got home and I was borderline overheating the buzzer went off as I pulled in the driveway. I did an overheat inspection, no smoke, no bubbles in the coolant fill line. So far so good.

long story short the relay was burnt.

Now my predicament is, should i go back to the stock clutch fan and avoid all future electrical problems? or should the taurus fan be plenty? I've read that the stock fan will work as well as any e-fan you can find. I feel as if the fan is not able to keep the temps low enough as it always seems to be on when i'm driving. it was fine before installing the FMIC. (I know it's like closing a door to my rad but im not going back to top-mount-inter-heater)

If i keep my e-fan should I lower the trigger temp or raise it? I assume there would be a point where airflow alone will maintain a certain cooling effect on the highway, which may only be a couple degrees higher than the 87* it is set to now. This way I wont burn out another relay


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