I have a 1990 GXL N/a with auto trans.

Engine turns over but doesn't start. Compression is good, spark is good, fuel rails getting fuel, can't test injectors though. Is there any other thing this could be besides the injectors? Injectors have a continuity of about 21 ohms, but the clips don't put out any voltage, but i figured that there would be no power there unless the car was on. in the video you can hear like a thumping coming from starter or trans, not sure but i don't see how that would affect combustion.

http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/mh...05379.mp4.html

 

Compression is good? What #'s are we considering "good"?

 

Poor man's compression test. Strong pulsations out of spark plug openings.

 

One of the two wires would put out 12 volts w/key to on ( in this case it is the Black/Yellow wire), but the only injectors reachable are the secondaries and they aren't used to start or idle the car (they would still have the 12 volts w/key to on at the B/Y wire though). You could use the ECU to find out if the primary injectors are receiving voltage.

 

I'm guessing that it's not the injectors. I'm leaning towards flooding now, I took out the spark plugs and egi fuse and turned the engine over for about 15 seconds following rotaryperformance deflood technique and i got a thick mist of fuel from the spark plug holes. after trying to deflood for about half an hour still nothing. won't crank.

 

Doesn't always mean good compression. 60 psi getting pushed out've a small hole can sound like 100 psi, but isn't 100 psi

 

New plugs?

 

True. I'll look into the equipment to do a real compression test tomorrow as well as get new plugs. Everytime I pull them off the engine they are wet.

I had an engine fire from a leaking line at the primary fuel rail about 4 months ago and I've just now replaced everything. All hoses, connections, sensors, etc. The fire was put out quick and contained to right on top of the block. Could any internal seals be damaged though from this? Everytime I crank it trying to deflood it, smoke comes from the tailpipe but it also seems to come up from where the starter is and it almost smells like coolant.

 

if you have changed injectors and replaced all the EFI hose and the regs then it will be fine

you need to deflood the engine with the ignition and the fuel pump disabled and plugs out , extended cranking till it does not mist

and then get it to draw in some light oil .. about 50 cc each side
( via inlet while cranking or via leading spark hole with syringe or hand pump )

this will raise the compression up a lot and free up any carbonised seals

charge up the battery .. place another across it in jump mode

put new plugs in.. use cheaper bike plugs ( B9 EG NGK ) with a thinwall or turned down spark plug tool

and replace the fuse for the fuel pump and the EGI

and give it a good crank , starting from wide open throttle,, slowly closing it

 

Got new plugs and some mmo, will Try again today. Left the plugs out over night. So hopefully we'll get some spark today.

 

Tried extensively to unflood today and still won't fire. What else could it be?

 

the next step is to repeat the deflood and clean spark plugs,, then try again.. this time fuel pump disabled and using only ether spray ( aerostart ) down either one of the vac hoses or via the inlet


it it fires up then spark and compression are good and you have problem with injectors, fuel pressure or the ecu isnt happy with something like the coolant temp sender

 

Compression checks are basically free, you rent one, use it, bring it back, get some actual compression #'s and go from there

 

A normal comp tester (for piston poppers) won't give an accurate reading of all six combustion chambers. It will only read the chamber with the best compression on each rotor..

 

Tow start it.. oh sorry, auto.

I used to get my old Rx2 going with 24v when it was nearly dead. I wouldn't do it on a Fc though. Unless you can isolate the 24v supply to only the starter whilst feeding the rest of the electrical system with 12v. (that does NOT mean feeding the fat cable with 24v, as it will back feed through the starter and fry everything)

 

Yes, but your able to watch it with the Schrader valve out and make sure they are even. Granted yes the $1000 compression tester from mazda is more accurate, but a piston tester does just as well to see how healthy your engine is. If a piston tester shows 50psi per rotor face, you know its rebuild time

 

Went to autozone and a couple other parts stores and they all looked at me like i was crazy when I mentioned a compression tester.

Got some starter spray and it started for about 5 seconds pouring out extremely thick smoke and then died. Tried it again, same result. Then on the third time I got a nice little fire under the exten manifold. It only burned for maybe 5-10 seconds and no damage was caused.

I'm guessing what happened was that cranking it constantly led to a buildup of pressure in the primary fuel rail because clearly the injectors aren't spraying into the chamber and fuel leaked out through the injector seals. Now i'm guessing that that is what happened, my question to you guys, is that even possible? I don't see how the fuel rail would see that much pressure.

Another theory is that there is something blocking the inlet port of the injectors. Still not completely sure though. I'm taking the injectors by a body shop sometime this week to get a proper flow test and we'll see from there.

 

IMO, goto a real parts store than. Anyone working at an auto parts store, IDC what company, that doesn't know what a compression tester is, shouldn't even be selling washer solvent

 

any updates?

I also have an issue with injectors not firing...

 

Got spark?

I reckon his injectors are firing as the plugs are coming out wet. He just needs to get it running again to clear it out and it should be good for an oil change and a good thrash.