lduley

iTrader: (1)

Normally flywheels fall off fairly easily, if anything a hit with a rubber mallet normally pops them free

If your really careful with some prybars behind it and pry on it and whack it with the rubber mallet may help also

struthiocamelus

These methods didn't work for me.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Two prybars, at 3 and 9 o'clock. 5lb sledge hammer. Hit the nut (threaded on but a lil gap between it and the flywheel and further out than the ecc. shaft end). Make sure the prybars are being pulled hard when the hammer strikes.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Better idea, find another nut that threads on if you can THAN smack that one with the sledge, that way you don't damage the stock nut

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

^ Good advice. Last time me and buddy put and thick piece of steel on the nut to spread the force from the hammer.

struthiocamelus

Okay, so I tried the prybar hammer method to no avail. I then fabricated a puller of sorts, a very crude SST like tool. It put down a LOT of force, but the flywheel is still on. I drilled some holes in some tubular steel, so I could thread bolts into the flywheel. Then I welded a large nut in the center hole so I could press a large bolt against that center thread in the middle of the flywheel. There were two steel plates I placed over the thread, so that the bolt wouldn't enter the thread tube, and it just bent them in to a tit like shape. XD I know this is hard to picture, so I attached a photo of the tool. This thing is STUCK.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

I think at this point it would be best to post for some help in your local regional section. See if someone nearby can come over.

When something becomes this stubborn to remove one has to actually be there to make sure the other doesn't damage stuff.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if the engine isn't out yet, maybe its easier to pull the engine, and then tackle the flywheel off the car?

the "factory" puller + some hammer taps should do the trick.

struthiocamelus

It's already out.

welfare

A puller will never work. It needs to be jarred. Just keep tapping. Try all different areas while applying even pressure. It won't take much. Just a light tap. You just need to find the sweet spot

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

I've had to take a pretty hefty hammer like a mini sledge and have had to beat around the edge of the fly wheel. Just be careful not to hit the clutch surface of the flywheel or chip any of the teeth around the edge.

struthiocamelus

Basically what I understand is I have to carefully continue hammering and prying. I shall do this. c:

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

To say the least, yes! It will eventually break free...

Murilli

iTrader: (1)

Took me about an hour of hammering the edges of the flywheel, I thought it would never come off. Second engine took me about 2 minutes of the same thing. So it should come off eventually.

welfare

you wanna tap as close to the taper as possible

welfare

in an extreme case, you could use heat as well.
heating ONLY the area of the flywheel surrounding the taper to a glow. then, allow it to cool, on its own, to the touch. the flywheel would then slide off by hand, guaranteed. my only worry being the taper on the flywheel would now be very slightly more expanded then it was. whether that would cause an issue, i don't know

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

No need to heat to glow. I personally wouldn't do that. If you could apply pressure with a puller and then tap with a hammer, or heat and tap, I think you'll get it. I don't recommend any prying against the keg for pressure because it all gets put on the front thrust bearing..

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Yeah don't heat it that hot! If you do it could take the temper out of the e shaft and it wouldn't be as strong as it used to be. But you use like a propane torch or map torch I've had to use them to break loose the front pulley bolt.

welfare

heat wouldn't be my first resort either. believe me. the only thing propane will do is melt loc tite. you're not heating the e shaft. that's the whole idea. and you certainly don't wanna heat and pry or tap. that could distort the flywheel. you'd wanna heat just the flywheel, around the taper. don't touch anything. let it cool to the touch. then slip it off. personally, i wouldn't worry using this method. but really, i also don't think it's necessary to go that far with it. it'll come off. just need to hit the sweet spot

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Ok..let's see if we can explain a Crude flywheel removal tool.

I use a 24 inch piece of 3/8 flat bar.( I also use it as a flywheel stopper to get the e-shaft nut off and have a 19mm socket on it for the fronmt pulley to get that Beotch off too!)
I drilled 2 holes to insert 1.25 x50 threaded bolts in through the bar to line up with the threaded holes(one on each side of the Eccentric shaft nut) in the middle of the stock flywheel.
Place the Nut ON the shaft by a couple turns.
Put the bar OVER the nut to use it as a stationary point.(so Bolt>Nut<Bolt)
Thread the bolts into the flywheel.
Turn one bolt a couple turns,then alternate to the other..POP...
Done.

welfare

multi-tool. beautiful!

lduley

iTrader: (1)

You just described styx in one word lol

struthiocamelus

Styx made my tool look so lame compared to his with more nuts and thick steel. XD

But I have these things, I will plan to modify mine. c:

struthiocamelus

To be completely honest with you guys. At this point, although I am still attempting to dismantle the motor, I have also been looking into another vehicle. I absolutely LOVE my FC. It is my first car, and I have SO many memories in it, but as a senior in high school, soon to start college, an RX7 with questionable reliability is not exactly the ideal vehicle to have. The money I would spend on the parts to fix it could go toward a down payment in another vehicle. There might good news however, there may or may not be a part out of an FC s5 convertible with a great body and interior on the forum soon. Hopefully my RX7 will help other owners, as well help me put the down payment on my new vehicle.

But I still want to tear it apart and find out what happened...

welfare

tbh, in all likelihood, your engine is likely not going to be worth rebuilding. at least not for someone in your position. when i said 200$ for a used engine, that's a bit of a stretch. i mean, i have of course seen them go for that low, but never when you need them of course. 4 or 500$ would fetch you a very decent pre owned motor though. find some shops that work on rotaries in your area. some reputable ones. they'll probably have something that isn't too questionable.
but i mean, it's a rotary. it's always gonna be questionable!