Engine Startup, warm, searched, need expanded info. folks!
OK, 1990 FC3C, n/a, just replaced clutch, and when it is warmed up, won't start up again until it cools. No leaking injectors, not flooded, grounds on belhousing fine, starter good, lights inside and out work, battery OK, alternator fine, something I might be missing? No trouble codes, and no click or turn-over of starter when it won't start. Ideas, or threads that I maybe missed?
Thanks all, appreciate the help.
PEACE THE DOG
Thanks all, appreciate the help.
PEACE THE DOG
Haven't checked them recently, they have about 10 thousand on them. How would the plugs affect the start-up when warm, as compared to cold? I'll check them out, I'm just curious. Thanks for the help.
PEACE THE DOG
PEACE THE DOG
This started as soon as you installed the new clutch? Not believing in coincidence, I'd have to say the two are related. You say "no click or turn-over of starter when it won't start". If that means the starter doesn't work at all when hot, then either the starter has a very weak ground, or it has an short that only manifests itself when hot. In this case, I'd run an additional ground to the starter and see if that corrects the problem. If so, I'd recheck the wiring to the starter. The ground strap to the bellhousing is still there, right? If the additional ground doesn't correct the problem, I'd pull the starter and have a bench rebuilder disassemble, check, and rebuild it. That's about $70 where I live.
If the engine does crank when hot, does the engine cranking speed when warm appear to be the same as when cold? If not, I'd add an additional ground to the starter and see if it corrects the problem. If so, you know it's a bad/loose wire somewhere.
Hope that helps
If the engine does crank when hot, does the engine cranking speed when warm appear to be the same as when cold? If not, I'd add an additional ground to the starter and see if it corrects the problem. If so, you know it's a bad/loose wire somewhere.
Hope that helps
Thanks for the info. When I say that it doesn't click, spin, nada, I mean nothing>in so far as the starter, and this whole issue, it just started to happen. Clutch installed about a week, almost two, ago. Now granted, vibration if I didn't get something tight, understandable. I appreciate all the input. I'm gonna check the starter, and re-check and clean all the grounds. Let you know. The car is hot now, so we will see what happens.
PEACE THE DOG
PEACE THE DOG
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The solenoid on the starter should click whether or not the rest of the starter is toast or not.
Pull the small wire off the solenoid and put a meter on it. Put the ignition to start. You should have 12vdc.
If not, jumper the interlock switch at the top of the clutch pedal to see it that helps.
If that does not help, put a meter on the black/red wire of the interlock connector and see if you have 12v when the igniton is in start.
IF that does not work, then the ignition switch is toast OR the feed to the ignition switch is intermittent. Pull the ignition plug apart that has a pure black wire and a black/white wire in it. The pure black wire should have 12v on it as long as there is a battery in the car that has 12v charge.
That pure black wire originates from a single connector about six inches below the engine fuse box. That wire also is spliced into the alternator wire. Just FYI.
Personally, If it were me, I would get under the car with the car in neutral and use a screwdriver to jumper the large wire on the solenoid to the small bayonet on the starter solenoid to prove the starter and solenoid are just fine and dandy. Then see if the small wire has 12v when put to START.
Pull the small wire off the solenoid and put a meter on it. Put the ignition to start. You should have 12vdc.
If not, jumper the interlock switch at the top of the clutch pedal to see it that helps.
If that does not help, put a meter on the black/red wire of the interlock connector and see if you have 12v when the igniton is in start.
IF that does not work, then the ignition switch is toast OR the feed to the ignition switch is intermittent. Pull the ignition plug apart that has a pure black wire and a black/white wire in it. The pure black wire should have 12v on it as long as there is a battery in the car that has 12v charge.
That pure black wire originates from a single connector about six inches below the engine fuse box. That wire also is spliced into the alternator wire. Just FYI.
Personally, If it were me, I would get under the car with the car in neutral and use a screwdriver to jumper the large wire on the solenoid to the small bayonet on the starter solenoid to prove the starter and solenoid are just fine and dandy. Then see if the small wire has 12v when put to START.
Thanks Hailers, I appreciate the info. Just drove the beauty, started up after 3 different stores. Only happens when it's time for work. Will check it in the light tomorrow. Thanks again for your help folks.
PEACE THE DOG
PEACE THE DOG
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