StevenL5975

Hello,


today while driving girlfriend home the engine stalled on the highway. I was doing around 90 kmh (steady)
then the engine just stalled, no bucking no warning it just plain simple stalled.

I pressed the clutchpedal and the rpms dropped to 0. Tried to start the car while keeping clutchpedal pressed all the way and it started fine.

Drove home without problem. Engine ran like everyday.

Thats the 2 time it does that since about 1 year i have this car.
I am wondering what could cause such a behavior.
ECU did not throw any codes.

Car:
-1986 GXL NA, 5 Speed
-0,5 Liter Premix on full tank

Modifications:
-Drop in K&N
-New battery, new alt
-BUR9EQP, BUR7EQP installed
-All fluids changed
-NGK wires from Coils to distributor
-Racing Beat silicone wires from distributor to plugs

Problems known:
-Exhaust leak
-Belts need to be changed
-Upper rad hose is leaking drops of coolant (didnt noticed until coolant res was empty)
-Backfires ? (small pop, or huge *baaam*) here and there

Mileage: 136000 KM first engine
Fuel: 95 Octan, 350 KM on full tank


Any help is greatly appreciated as I dont have a clue whats going on, could be spark related or fuel cutoff, I dont know.


Best regards
Steven



PS
Just comming from replacing the leading coil with a Bosch high performance coil, brand new out of the box. Engine runs a bit smoother but I dont think that this solves the prob.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

couple questions

Why are you running premix and why are you using 95 octane?

Do lights radio all stop working? or just the engine

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

I was going to ask the same.thing? Also does everything go out when you press on the break?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

The important question:

When the car shut off, did the dummy lights light up or did you have total power loss (no lights at all)?

StevenL5975

Thank you all for the replys,

well I forgot to tell that all the idiot lights came on when the engine stalled.
As if you put the key in it and turned to the ON position.

There was another thing, the car startet beeping, it was not the loud coolant buzzer.
It went away when I started it up few seconds later. I dont remember the intervalls,
I was too busy paying attention to traffic. Traffic always comes first.

In fact it was just the engine who stopped working and then followed by the beeping and idiot lights.


I am running premix due to engine health. I think it still is in nice condition and premix is
just my additional assurance that the housings are lubed.
Honestly, I dont give a **** on the poor OMP design.
95 Octane is the lowest I can get over here, as far as I know 89 or 91 would be fine
but they arent sold here.


Hope this claryfies a bit
If you have any Ideas I would be happy.

Thanks
Steven

slitherz90gxl

I'd start with checking your battery terminals and then checking for vacuum leaks.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Point of note:
Notice that he's measuring in Liters and Kilometers.
Check the OP's location.
Also notice that he has a distributor.

European standards are different than American ones.

Check the octane sticker on your fuel pump next time you get a tank of fuel... Check the fine print on there and note the formula they use. In America, they use RON + MON / 2... (Research Octane added to Motor Octane, then divided by 2.)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating






As far as the Op's problem is concerned, I'm wondering if the European model has the circuit opening relay. I'm leaning towards a fuel cut problem and I'd look there and at the MAF to begin.

StevenL5975

Thanks,


@slitherz90gxl
The terminals have been changed together with the battery last month as the PO did destroy the terminal screws.
They had to be cut off. Terminals now are tight and of good quality.
Grounds have been checked and redone by me, not all but the ones who were reachable without removing stuff.

Vacuum leaks added to my to do list.

@Pele
Good indice !
Yes, I think it has a COR, FSM stated its location right under the dash more towards center console. (Did a search on the FSM)
Will check this relay when I have chance.
(Hope there is not too much stuff to remove, car is parked outside and is DD)
Anyone knows where to get a replacement COR ?
Checked mazdatrix and atkinsrotary.

I dont guess that the COR may be bad but after so many years, a small bump ...
Hardware inside said relay may not be in best condition anymore.

MAF added to the list. Can I clean this type of MAF ?
Not a MAF specialist but on some nissans I used to clean them with some special spray.

Thank you for the answers so far.
Any further Ideas ?

Regards
Steven

Pele

iTrader: (28)

^

The circuit opening relay kills the fuel pump when the engine is not sucking air in. This is a safety feature so that if the car is wrecked and you're unconscious, the fuel pump quits running and prevents fire.

There is a switch inside the MAF that controls the circuit opening relay...

So...
MAF controls relay... Relay controls fuel pump...

There is a bypass. I believe it's a two pin connector near the MAF. On US spec vehicles, I believe the connector is yellow with a brown and black wire. Put a jumper wire in this and it will activate the fuel pump at all times.

Other than that, you can bypass the relay by removing it and jumpering two pins at the connector that originally hooked up to the relay. I forget which pins those are and which color wires they are. My relay failed on the side of the road so I smashed it open and looked inside to figure out which contacts were the ones I needed to jumper. Took me about 30 sec and my car is still like that a year later. (Yeah yeah, I know...)

Please reference the circuit diagrams for your country.

Does the car start and die immediately or just not start at all?