I started my engine rebuild today. by following the service manual for removal, i took off the power stearing pump and ac bracket, the spark plugs, oil filter, crank angle sensor, water pump and oil filter housing. i hope the whole thing goes as smoothly as it has so far. if you have any sugestions or comments, they would be greatly apreciated.

ps. i am on a low budget so i cant upgrade much. just disassemble, inspect and reassemble. damn i need a job.

 

heh... A lot of that stuff didn't need to come off. That being said, you'll learn more by doing a thorough disassembly, just make sure everythings labeled really well and you understand what you're doing/removing.

I would start by removing things from the "front". battery, fan, shroud, radiator, airbox etc. This way you can "see" things a lot better. From there, I'd remove from the "top". UIM, alternator, fuel setup, wiring harness etc., then disconnect all the oil lines, coolant lines etc. on the drivers side, move over to the pass. side and disconnect the emissions crap and exhaust. After pretty much all of the necessary things are removed, go over everything slowly and with a fine-toothed comb and look for any small wires, plugs and lines that you may have missed.

Jack up the car to remove the exhaust, starter, motor to tranny bolts and might as well get the motor-mount bolts while you're at it.

Oh yeah, and if you haven't all ready, make sure you drain the motor of coolant and oil (as best you can).

The disassembly and removal is probably the easiest and most enjoyable part of the process. If you want things to go smoothly on the re-install though, you've got to start NOW by organizing, labeling like crazy and taking pics/video to prepare for the re-install.

Good luck.

 

i guess i shuold have said that the shroud and every thing was already removed because there was a hole in the radiator. also the trans and clutch were already removed because the gear on the flywheel was diconnected, plus the trans was double engaged(dont know how it happend). but thanx for the sugestions.

 

any others

 

same boat. I pretty much took out evrything that i could, leaving the short block ready to be pull. i know it was no necesary but it is more easier for me. the only thing im having problems is thoses damn oil cooler lines. i just need the right adapters.

good luck.

 

Yeah, I pulled everyhting off first, too. Take my advice on the oil cooler lines - use the right size wrench, NOT a crescent wrench. They just round them off. Its 23 mm, in case you didn't know. Unfortunately the only place I could find them was sears, and they charge a ton for the wrench.

 

i think ive got a 23mm wrench. thanx. i also plan to take the engine down to the shortblock so its easier to remove. my dads gonna rig up a pully system in the rafters of the garage to lift it out. we still gotta figure so stuff out but i hope to pull it by this weekend. still gotta buy the engine stand and adapter.thanx for the tips.

 

you don't need the adapter, just mount it where the ac bracket goes.

 

I recommend pulling out the tanny with it, but thats just me. Makes it easier to reassemble. I also strongly recommend just renting an engine hoist. It makes it so much easier to do.
Edit: check out the writeup on how to pull the engine at www.rotaryresurrection.com

 

when we pulled my engine, we had it down to a short block pretty much. we twisted one oil cooler line and broke it at the fitting. so now i have to get a new one.

but we had to pull the engine by hand. no hoist, or cherry picker.

that sucked haha

so don't try that haha

 

I know which line your talking about. Luckily kevin told how to avoid breaking it in his writeup, or I would have done it too.

 

does anyone know if it is safe to set the engine on a workbench if you take the oil pan off first? the reason i am asking is i cant afford an engine stand at the moment.

 

anyone?

 

Well, I just pulled mine apart on the garage floor because I couldn't afford a workbench. Its doable, just a pain in the ***. Make sure that you are very careful with pulling apart the engine, especially the e-shaft.

 

Well, we've done this at the shop. Take a used tire and put it on a palatte with wheels, and then you can put the short block with the oil pan right in the middle of the tire, just gotta make sure it sits right.

 

the engine can be taken out by 2 ppl and a piece of 2x4....but u gotta eat ur wheaties that morning.....u gotta lift high enough to clear the front of the car....

 

ill be using a pully system as well, at least is better than trying to lift the engine by hand. and i just got a engine stand for $35 not the preetiest but it will work and you dont really need the adapter.

 

i got my engine out yesterday and began tearing it apart. i found a blown coolant seal and a bad front gasket. plus the rotors are covered in carbon. not to horrible for 130k miles without a rebuild. all in all im quite happy. the rotors can be cleaned. the seals replaced and away i go.