geor

Hay guys, new here so please bear with me.

I have a 86 rx7 with a 13B that I can only get running if I hold the gas to the floor and when it fires up I have to keep it above 3000RPM to continue running. If the idle goes below 3K then the engine will stall and gas foul the plugs.

I don't know enuff about this car to pull any trouble codes, but I am try to learn.

This is how I got the car, so I don't know any of the cars history.

It has also been sitting for over 2yrs but this is why.

Thanks for any help.

Boosting_FC

Recommendations:

1. Do a tune up first. Either way, you will need to do it since it's been sitting for so long. Recheck problem...
2. Check for intake leak or if the MAF is stuck open. I think this is your problem. Recheck problem...
3. Maybe it fuel related: injectors clogged or need new fuel filter?

Good luck, Jay

geor

Thanks Jay

I have given it a tune up and even drained the entire fuel system, changed the fuel filter and refilled with 93 octane. The gas was very bad and I though for sure that was the problem. It did help but very little.

As for the MAF, I'm going to check it right now.

I'll post the results, George

geor

Just got back from checking the MAF and it is not stuck.

I dinked around and got the car started and noticed that when it is running, it's running extreamly rich.

Please, Any Help!

Scott 89t2

if it's been sitting for that long you're lucky you even got it going. I'm sure some of the seals are stuck giving verly little compression on 1 or both rotors. stick some ATF into the spark plug holes and just try and keep it running.

geor

Just unfouled it, used ATF, and started it up. I kept it running for a little bit, then felt the second chamber start firing(it was running bad until that point) so I let off and it seemed to want to idle on it's own but at about 1500RPM.

Then it stalled a fouled the plugs again.

Will the ATF free up any stuck seals, or am I just hoping for a luck shot?

I removed the plugs, pulled the EGI fuse and cranked it for about 20sec. I will put some more ATF in it in the moring and try again (I don't think the neibors like my loud exhaust at about 11:30 p.m.).

Thanks for the help guys and I'll let you know how it turns out this afternoon.

George

geor

I think I'll just burn it, it would cause less smoke!

Well I was able to fire the damn thing up again, kept her up stairs until it smothed out then I let it idle. It idled at about 2200RPM for a while then came down to 1K and seemed fine other thain the unbeliveable smoke cloud. After it ran for about 10 min, I shut it off so I could go some where to breath for a bit.
When I returned, I tried to start it but it flooded again.

So, back to square one.

After unflooding it again, adding more ATF, and cleaning up another set of plugs, I started it again. This time she ran for about 5 min then stalled on her own (flooded).

Could the rotor seals be bad enought that it only runs when compression is aided by ATF?

Also, the last run was with the full exhaust system atached. All the other runs had nothing past the manifold atached (at one point I thought the cat was plugged, and maby it is).

Thanks, George

Scott 89t2

if the cats are very plugged that would cause the car to not start or not run. I'd also replace the plugs. the ATF basicly ruins them.

Suparslinc

just to check, have you made sure the air funnel is tight?

HAILERS

Its starting to sound like the flooding is washing the oil from around the seals causing low compression. Then you inject some atf oil which in turn ups the compression again, where it will start again, but perhaps due to an injector not working right , it floods out on you. You might just swap out your secondary injectors with the primary injectors, and see if that helps. Should eliminate the thought of a primary injector staying open too much. Then again, its an old car if its the original engine, and the problem could be just simple worn out seals. Do the injector thing. Swap. Piece of cake.

geor

Thanks guys.

The air funnel is tight and unrestricted.

The compression theroy sounds right on the money. The car has 110K miles on it and appears to be all orginal. My last rx7 had nearly 140K HARD miles on it, was all orginal and ran great. This current car appears to have been well taken care of up to this point, but you can't judge a book by it's cover. I will try swaping the injectors. Forgive my ingorance, but if I had a bad injector and swaped it to the secondary then how come I wouldn't get the same problem? I haven't read much on the injectors so I don't know how the mazda uses it's secondary injectors

Do you know what size the injectors are? The reason I ask is I have a large surplus of injectors from other types of cars and could possably have a known good set with the proper impeadance.

Also how can I tell if the seals are bad at this point in the game?

Thanks Again, George

HAILERS

You should have 460's. Swaping the injectors might not be the way to go I guess. I was suggesting it because the secondaries are not used idling and I was kinda hoping that if you had a bad primary it was defunct only when pulsed. Not real strong thinkin there I guess. Why not ....lossen the secondary fuel rail. Hang the secondary injectors out of their bores. Tie wrap the injectors to the fuel rail. Put a container under them. Turn the key to on, not start. Jumper the fuel pump jumper plug on or near the r/h strut tower. Now the fuel rails are pressurized. Jumper a ground and 12v to one of the injectors for a moment. See if it shuts off. Do the same to the other three injectors to find one that does not shut off. You can do to the primary rail the same as the secondary rail. Or if you have some 460's laying around swap em out. Oh yes. The injectors are 3ohm impedence. You'll have problems if you put the 12ohm ones in.