they do, but it isn't anywhere near as common.

 

So buy a new pulsation damper. It'll be good for another 15 years. Or buy one of the numerous aftermarket dampers available.

 

Let's not have this turn into another PD vs. banjo bolt thread

 

And so do S6 (3rd Gen) PD's

 

IT's a "do something" vs. "do nothing" thread...

 

I agree, either will prevent a fire, but every time one person mentions the banjo bolt, another is bound to say it's not the right way to go and then the PD vs. banjo bolt whining returns. It's like those old Miller light commercials, "tastes great," 'less filling." hehe

 

long story short here are options for interested forum members:

replace PD : costly, but retains oem fuel rail, and is worry free.. till it breaks again

replace lower fuel rail with s5: costly, but looks clean, and is much safer than s4 rail

replace pd with banjo bolt: costs about 12$ from summit, practically indestructible, but rumored to cause injector failure/fuel pressure regulator problems down the road.

 

Doesn't anyone make OE PDs that don't cost a ridiculous amount of money? I don't think it's that complicated of a device, is it? I'm tempted to go with the banjo bolt method myself, or maybe seal mine up with high-temp RTV all the way around so if it does tear, it won't leak on the manifold.

 

if you were really fortuitous you could just look for an in line fuel pulse dampener, that you can install on a fuel line, but you still have to buy the banjo bolt.

DO NOT epoxy/glue/weld/rtv/whatever your current pd shut. its just asking for trouble.gas is pretty corrosive stuff. better off just doing banjo bolt.

a few forum members have suggested just using larger lengths of soft fuel line between the primary and secondary rails.

ive used a banjo bolt on my car, i have to admit it works surprisingly well. i dont think theres anything wrong with using it on an n/a car. weve got huge injectors, and they can take alittle bit of abuse. long story short is that injectors are cheap, engine harnesses arent.

 

That's true. I just paid $45 for used injectors, and another $40-ish to clean, good as new.

 

yeah, and if you have a PD fire, you'll most likley have to replace your injectors anyway

 

hows that happen

 

i will admit after doing some testing using hi vs. low octane, and pd/no pd.. using the banjo bolt seems to cause slight hesitation at 3800. just barely. i also noticed hesitation using high octane fuel (95+) in my na.

 

3800 RPM is when the secondaries kick on, not related to PD. Check grounds. Na FC's should use the lowest octane available to run best.

 

what are some of the things to watch out for or test if a PD is about to fail? i heard u gotta let the car warm up and then put ur finger on the PD , see if it vibrates. but how do u do that when the engine is running? a bit confused here.....

 

jesus i know what octane to put in my car lol. anyhow, how can you explain my hesitation disappearing off when i switched back to 87? doing things like removing the PD i believe cause anomalous behaviour in the injectors, due to fluctuating fuel pressure.

your pd is failing if you smell gas at any time while driving or with the car off. if you pop the hood and smell gas. your pd is done. im not sure its possible to tell if the pd is about to go. all it takes is a small crack in the diaphragm to make it dieee

 

damnit lemonade!


pd-fires suck. sorry for the loss... it shoulda been one of the first mods though

 

 

easy boys.. lets try an avoid low blows!!

BTW.. WTF is that in the previouse post on fire..?? best not be a rotary

Frank

 

i replaced my pd with a bold. havent been happier.

 

whats the easiest way to get to the dampaner to change to a banjo bolt, any way without taking manifold and such off.

 

what is summit or some other supplier number for the banjo bolt? anyone know? i am going to order one out of shear fear but i need to know the number so i dont wind up with the wrong one.

 

is it just me or is this mostly a turbo problem. From what i can ell from what I read as long as I have an NA this is never an issue or am I not really safe from this?

 

The NA fuel rail will leak too. And you really do have to pull the upper manifold off to get at it. It might be possible otherwise, but it's easiest with the fuel rail off the car. And you'll probably have to use a vice or something to hold the fuel rail while you pound on a wrench to get the old pulsation damper off - it's a bitch to remove.

-=Russ=-

 

i dont recommend pounding persay.. what worked for me.. took a crescent wrench and an open ended wrench, braced the crescent on the rail, then as smoothly as possibly, unhinge that lil bitch.