RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I have been searching and archiving a lot of the flood issue threads for a database I am compiling. The #1 problem I see with EVERY thread Is that everyone post on how to UNFLOOD the motor, rarely do I see a fix for the problem other then the typical "install a Fuel Cut Switch". That temporary fix bothers me for a couple reasons but the main reason is that is just a way to deal with the problem not a solution. Lets analyze the issue and come up with all possible causes and in turn all posible solutions.. The following is a list of things I feel may cause the flooding issues. Please feel free to add any other possible issues and solutions.

-leaky injectors- remove injectors and soak them in Lucas or have them cleaned
-Vacume Leaks- Check for leaks and install new gaskets
-FPR faulty- check and replace
-Poor compression- This can cause flooding issues...
-02sensor bad- debated issue but makes sense the o2 sensor in thoery can cause the computer to think the can is running lean.
-thermosensor- I have read several threads that lean toward this...
-poor MAF connection- weak but possible

These are the reasons I found that made some sense if anyone know any more please post them and any expereinces you may have had.

KillaKitiie

I dont know, i have a fuel cut switch and the car seem's to have a hard time starting after sitting over night.After it starts and runs it will fire right up for the rest of the day?

gregk

I used to have to clear a flood in my TII 4-5 times a week for the first year that I had it. After I installed my Greddy turbo timer, I've had to clear it less than ten times. That was over a year ago.

Project84

Kinda sounds like health care. All this drugs and medicines to take, but when is the last time they irradicated something? Polio? - Off topic.

As for the fuel injectors, you are right, these are band-aid fixes.

homebrewer

Many many years ago I had a 86 NA that had leaky injectors and flooded at least once a day. I took it to a local foreign shop who put a T fitting onto the delivery and return fuel lines. When engine shut off, the pressurized fuel returned back to the tank and didn't leak past the injectors. This cheap fix worked great and was very easy on my wallet.

JSmith0101

iTrader: (6)

The fuel cut switch, is a pretty good option, I think. It's long term, and keeps my *** out of anything pricey. Even though I've got cleaned injectors and all that. I've got the whole kit and kaboodle, it's tighter than a dolphin's.... yeah.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

My Warm Start issues went away with the installation of a standalone.

So you can add that to the remedy list!

Icemark

RRTEC, you missed a bad ECU. There is a transistor that is damaged by many mechanics (using test lights generally), that when damaged will cause hot start flooding issues.

But other than that...

See anything that deals with a fuel cut switch or cross valve (depressurises the fuel lines or dumps fuel back on the return line) points to bad and/or dirty injectors, or low compression.

Period.

Fix those, and it will fix 90% of the flooding issues.

Heck even a couple months back, one member here (a newbie who liked to argue with me- but I can't remember his name) claimed he just had the injectors professionally cleaned, had multiple ECUs, tried everything, had almost low compression would not believe for his life that the problem was related to injectors.

Yet when he replaced the injectors the problem went away- despite his hating to say I was right.

Curtisleeyoung

Hey RRTEC
that was good. I'm trying to put my site together for rotary cars, I'm trying to make it a reference based site. Your post on flooding issues is great could you post it on my site here is the link put it under 1989-1991.

Project Rotary

Feel free to join mysite in an effort to make it a good rotary resouce.

baby doll

The RX-8 approaches the issue with retarding timing 15ATDC, or it may have been BTDC I cannot recall for definite. Just that it approaches it with timing to unflood the car, during hot starts, or when it does not crank for a short time.

jhammons01

1.Leaky injectors, 2.poor compression.
1. Mazdatrix has a t-valve for sale
2. rebuild yor old tired motor.....it's easy

dennis blackstone

After years and years of flooding I decided to buy brand knew injectors at marren motorsports in derby fixed that problem right away , don't bother getting them cleaned it makes them worse don't forget to change the fuel filter

dennis blackstone

has any body else had any good fixes not bandaids

Blowtus

a non functioning bac valve can cause it. Not enough air gets sucked in on startup, meaning it's too rich to fire and floods.

Icemark

No that is incorrect.

You can remove the BAC valve (or even just unplug it) and on a decent compression engine with properlly functioning injectors the car will start fine everytime.

KingCobraV9

iTrader: (2)

install a starter button that just controles the starter and not anything else i did it and the few occasions that my car gets floded i just take the key out and put the pettle to the floor and hit the starter button. but for normal starting i just hit the button and hold the key forward in the start spot at the same time. works verry well and its a cool little feature so show off. best of all if someone tryes to hotwir the car ever nothing will happen!

Icemark

again, just a band aid to mask the real problem

dennis blackstone

i second that this thread should keep out bandaids we should reolve this problem once and foreall my fix was brand spankin knew injectors problem solved all i could think of the injectors where to old cleaning them was a waste of money

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

While a Fuel cut switch is a band aid. It's still a great tool.

Not only a good starting item but theft deterrent as well.

I'm running some high fuel pressure numbers and my compression was borderline on this rebuild. The car has cleaned injectors, a wlbro, and Aeromotive FPR. The fuel cut is a huge help.

87cncnu

I've got to agree with Digi7. My fuel cut switch 'solved' my problem, diagnosed my real problem as probably leaky injectors relatively inexpensively, and provided a level of theft protection that was probably worth the price of admission all by itself.

Icemark is also right that it doesn't truly 'fix' the problem...but neither do I have to sit listening to the radio for 20 min after I stop for gas....and I now know what the problem is if I choose to spend the $$.

dennis blackstone

Well when you get the money to buy the injectors you'll be a lot happier but the switch can be used as a theft deterant like you said ,all I'm saying the drastic change when I put the brand knew injectors in no hesitations, idle perfect, low end inprovement, then the most pain in the *** hot start flooding eliminated for good I'm a happy camper

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=Icemark]RRTEC, you missed a bad ECU. There is a transistor that is damaged by many mechanics (using test lights generally), that when damaged will cause hot start flooding issues.

So Ice, is there a way to test this?

locketine

[QUOTE=AUGieDogie]open ur ecu and check for the burned resistor, it is obvious. I replaced it just because I happened to have my ecu open and saw it. I don't remember if it fixed my hot start problem though, but I'm pretty sure it did cause I only had it flood on me twice in the 3 months of daily driving it. If ur interested in this fix just search for the thread I started on my ecu, it's got enough info in it for anyone to do it.

tawd

I had an idea im going to try on my frequently flooded 7... Mine like to flood out on the first start of the day... the rest of the day its fine. Here is my solution without having to flip a goofy switch and make the car look like a rigged up terd...

Most if not all cars have an IGN 2 wire coming from the ignition switch...
This wire has 12v in the run position, but is dead in the Cranking position.
So, If you wire the 12v trigger for the relay under the dash to the IGN2 wire,
there should be power to the relay *allowing the fuel pump to run* in the RUN position only. So, when you start your car, you click the car to run to the let fuel pump run for a sec, and then to Crank and the fuel pump will be dead while cranking and immediately turn back on once the car has started.

I have not done the "fuel cutoff switch" on my 7. I just bought the car about a week ago, and the cutoff switch just sounded kinda gay. Wait until you and some hotchick hop in your car and it wont start so you are forced to tell her "I gotta flip this goofy switch for my car to start because my car is a piece of ****." Im sure she will be VERY impressed.

I noticed that if my 7 didnt want to start, I just pulled out the relay under the dash and it would fire up and then I would stick the relay back in and it would run great. This fix would do essentially the same thing. I will be trying this fix soon. I will post results. Dont know for sure if it will work... Just an idea.

RETed

Does...
...replace the POS stock ECU and electronics with a Haltech count?


-Ted