Emissions removal, now can't get it started...
05-01-13, 06:30 PM
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Emissions removal, now can't get it started...
Hi everyone,
I recently did a full removal of almost all of the emissions. I left the BAC valve to help keep idle under control. So far, I have not modified the throttle body inany way so thermo wax is still in place.I upgrade the turbo inlet pipe and removed all the coverters and installed a 3" downpipe and new exhaust. Other than that is is mostly a stock 10 AE. I attempt to start it the other day and I couldn't get it to pop off. I tried deflooding by removing the fuse and that didn't work for me. So I pulled the plugs. I found the top plugs to be soaked in gas and the bottom mostly dry. I tested spark and it's all good. So I added a bit of trans fluid and reinstalled the plugs and still no go! My question is have others had issues after removing emissions? Is it nessiccary to lean the idle after doing so? What other methods can I use to start? I heard maybe pulling the fuel pump relay conector? I am going to attempt again this weekend and would appreciate any input. One last thing, as I am new to RX7's when starting the car how long should I crank? I have heard if it doesn't start in the first 5 sec it's flooded. But in the past I have had to crank piston cars up to 15-20 seconds.
Thanks everyone!
I recently did a full removal of almost all of the emissions. I left the BAC valve to help keep idle under control. So far, I have not modified the throttle body inany way so thermo wax is still in place.I upgrade the turbo inlet pipe and removed all the coverters and installed a 3" downpipe and new exhaust. Other than that is is mostly a stock 10 AE. I attempt to start it the other day and I couldn't get it to pop off. I tried deflooding by removing the fuse and that didn't work for me. So I pulled the plugs. I found the top plugs to be soaked in gas and the bottom mostly dry. I tested spark and it's all good. So I added a bit of trans fluid and reinstalled the plugs and still no go! My question is have others had issues after removing emissions? Is it nessiccary to lean the idle after doing so? What other methods can I use to start? I heard maybe pulling the fuel pump relay conector? I am going to attempt again this weekend and would appreciate any input. One last thing, as I am new to RX7's when starting the car how long should I crank? I have heard if it doesn't start in the first 5 sec it's flooded. But in the past I have had to crank piston cars up to 15-20 seconds.
Thanks everyone!
05-01-13, 07:06 PM
#3
vacuum leaks. everything in the intake path needs to be completely capped off otherwise numerous vacuum leaks will cause the engine to stall and flood.
also check that you plugged everything back in, ie injectors, CAS and AFM are the most important.
depending if you ran direct fuel hoses you could also have them reversed.
also check that you plugged everything back in, ie injectors, CAS and AFM are the most important.
depending if you ran direct fuel hoses you could also have them reversed.
05-03-13, 03:31 PM
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Update:
Ok guys so I Reyes again today. I started by removing the plugs and cleaning them off. I them tried a trick from my Mitsubishi days and did a boost leak test. I tested at the 90 elbo off the throttle body and attempt to pressurize the manifold. What I noticed was there was very little air getting past the throttle body..... I started to think the car was chocking for air. So I tried backing the screw on the BAC valve out, to increse the air into the manifold. After that I had the most amount of firing and stumbling but still no start.... So any ideas? Should I adjust the throttle body? Let me know your thoughts.
Much appreciated.
Ok guys so I Reyes again today. I started by removing the plugs and cleaning them off. I them tried a trick from my Mitsubishi days and did a boost leak test. I tested at the 90 elbo off the throttle body and attempt to pressurize the manifold. What I noticed was there was very little air getting past the throttle body..... I started to think the car was chocking for air. So I tried backing the screw on the BAC valve out, to increse the air into the manifold. After that I had the most amount of firing and stumbling but still no start.... So any ideas? Should I adjust the throttle body? Let me know your thoughts.
Much appreciated.
06-27-13, 08:10 PM
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Update:
The main reason I could not get the car started was because the car wouldn't turn over fast enough. The cause was.... Strange. The car has a new alternator from oreilly auto. The previous owner had this installed. The lower mounting bracket on the alternator where the long threw bolt goes is slightly different than factory I suspect. The spacing is a little too much so when I tighten the alternator down, it would flex the alternator housing enough to sieze the bearings on the alternator so it would not spin. I removed the threw bolt, installed some spacer washers and problem solved, it start the first time I tried after the fix.
Thanks for all that posted. Your help is greatly appreciated.
The main reason I could not get the car started was because the car wouldn't turn over fast enough. The cause was.... Strange. The car has a new alternator from oreilly auto. The previous owner had this installed. The lower mounting bracket on the alternator where the long threw bolt goes is slightly different than factory I suspect. The spacing is a little too much so when I tighten the alternator down, it would flex the alternator housing enough to sieze the bearings on the alternator so it would not spin. I removed the threw bolt, installed some spacer washers and problem solved, it start the first time I tried after the fix.
Thanks for all that posted. Your help is greatly appreciated.
06-28-13, 11:17 AM
#6
Wow thats a new one. Badly mounted alternator preventing the car from turning fast enough. Make sure you have the correct alternator. O'reillys, up here in MN atleast, does NOT have a good track record of giving the right parts for the 2nd gens. When ever I have had the need to go there I end up fighting with their parts computer for the right part. The last time I had to go there I had an alternator belt snap. They kept trying to give me a belt that was 3 times longer than the real one. I ended up having to find a used belt on its last legs from the junk pile till I could order a new one online.
07-03-13, 10:42 PM
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he where you guys from in MN? I have a s5 TII that is running stupid rich! Like 8 miles to the gallon! I delete emmisions and rats nest. I can not figure it out. when cruising there is a jerking. its hard to explain but the car jerks is what it feels like anyways
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