electrical problems
#1
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electrical problems
Just bought an 87 turbo II and every time i connect a battery the main fuse blows. I know it has to grounded somewhere or something anybody have any idea where it could be or what it could be thanks
#2
knowledge junkie
sounds like you'll have to trace the harness leads (I'm guessing the harness isn't broken internally.
I'd start at the ECUs, then the sensors, then the accessorie connectors.
It's a pain, but when you find it you'll be happy.
I'd start at the ECUs, then the sensors, then the accessorie connectors.
It's a pain, but when you find it you'll be happy.
#3
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
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I'm ignorant and lazy. Where is the MAIN FUSE exactly. Make it a detailed report as to its location. We can then look at the schematic and break your problem down into smaller pieces and perhaps FIX IT! WHADA YA THINK?
#4
Rotary Freak
Its labeled "MAIN" its under the hood, just like the EGI fuse.
On all of our cars.
Even yours.
I would:
remove the battery.
Go to the fuse box with a continuity buzzer/meter.
ground the meter ground lead.
start touching all of the fuses in the fuse box under tha dash, see which ones get continuity.
then, out of all the ones that beeped, see which ones have the lowest resistance to ZERO, if not actually drop thier resistance to ZERO.
the MOST ZERO circuit, is gounded.
this is only one method to do it and may not produce absolutely conclusive results.
but its a good start.
On all of our cars.
Even yours.
I would:
remove the battery.
Go to the fuse box with a continuity buzzer/meter.
ground the meter ground lead.
start touching all of the fuses in the fuse box under tha dash, see which ones get continuity.
then, out of all the ones that beeped, see which ones have the lowest resistance to ZERO, if not actually drop thier resistance to ZERO.
the MOST ZERO circuit, is gounded.
this is only one method to do it and may not produce absolutely conclusive results.
but its a good start.
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by Sniper_X
Its labeled "MAIN" its under the hood, just like the EGI fuse.
On all of our cars.
Even yours.
I would:
remove the battery.
Go to the fuse box with a continuity buzzer/meter.
ground the meter ground lead.
start touching all of the fuses in the fuse box under tha dash, see which ones get continuity.
then, out of all the ones that beeped, see which ones have the lowest resistance to ZERO, if not actually drop thier resistance to ZERO.
the MOST ZERO circuit, is gounded.
this is only one method to do it and may not produce absolutely conclusive results.
but its a good start.
Its labeled "MAIN" its under the hood, just like the EGI fuse.
On all of our cars.
Even yours.
I would:
remove the battery.
Go to the fuse box with a continuity buzzer/meter.
ground the meter ground lead.
start touching all of the fuses in the fuse box under tha dash, see which ones get continuity.
then, out of all the ones that beeped, see which ones have the lowest resistance to ZERO, if not actually drop thier resistance to ZERO.
the MOST ZERO circuit, is gounded.
this is only one method to do it and may not produce absolutely conclusive results.
but its a good start.
The 80A main fuse supplies the igntion switch, the starter, and through 30A circuit breakers the heater/air condition system and rear window defog (except 'verts).
Since the circuit breakers would protect the heat/air and rear defog, you can rule them out.
Which leaves either your ignition switch or starter.
I would bet the starter first, but the ignition switch is easier to unplug at the column. Unplug it. If the fuse still blows disconnect the starter.
Try another fuse, if it is still blowing with the starter and ignition switch unplugged then you have a pinched or shorted wire that should be smoking a little when you put the fuse in. You will want to replace that wire, the entire run, not just where it has been shorting, because the wire will be very brittle after blowing 88 amps through it (auto fuses are rated at 110% current to blow).
But I would bet even money that it is a bad starter.
#6
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
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oh, that main fuse. Tell you what you might try and get done prior to the days end. Just below the MAIN FUSE and those others in the black rectangular box, look about six to eight inches below the fuse box and you should see a *breakout* from the harness below, going to the fuse box. Each and every rx seven has a blade connector at this point or area. See if that connector is touching bare metal or FRIED at that place. If that is not the cause, remove the single black wire going to the altenator. Its possible that you have a dead short at the altenator or that wire is kaput. Heres a jpg: And all the post above are really great, but try this, you might get lucky.
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by HAILERS
Its possible that you have a dead short at the altenator or that wire is kaput.
Its possible that you have a dead short at the altenator or that wire is kaput.
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