Electrical catastrophe
11-18-16, 09:44 PM
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The two wires are next to each other and they are the only wires of this color in the plug. And you could add a flip switch to bypass the possibly defective switch. W/G should have constant voltage so you check that first. If it does then you measure for voltage on the R/B wire w/the switch set to the first position. If it does not have voltage then the fault lies within the switch. If the wire does have voltage then the issue is further down the line perhaps at an intermediate connector known as X-17.
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals (bottom right of page E-3)
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals (bottom right of page E-3)
Main issue right now is still brakes. Fuses good, bulbs are good, and I just put in a new brake switch and still nothing. While car is on in park pressing the brakes shuts off the map light though. Starting to think the previous owner may have done something interesting...
11-18-16, 10:25 PM
#27
Will be sure to check that next thanks.
Main issue right now is still brakes. Fuses good, bulbs are good, and I just put in a new brake switch and still nothing. While car is on in park pressing the brakes shuts off the map light though. Starting to think the previous owner may have done something interesting...
Main issue right now is still brakes. Fuses good, bulbs are good, and I just put in a new brake switch and still nothing. While car is on in park pressing the brakes shuts off the map light though. Starting to think the previous owner may have done something interesting...
11-19-16, 01:00 AM
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
11-19-16, 02:01 AM
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
11-19-16, 10:17 AM
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
No it has an aftermarket alarm, doesn't work. I didn't pull or cut anything. And I have not tried it in gear with the engine off.
11-19-16, 10:27 AM
#33
You need to see if these lights work w/the engine off and more to the point see if they work w/engine off but the car in gear as opposed to being in park.
Additionally, do the brake lights work w/the engine off?
Additionally, do the brake lights work w/the engine off?
Last edited by satch; 11-19-16 at 10:52 AM.
11-19-16, 01:24 PM
#34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
No brake lights while it's off. And I will try that when I get a chance.
11-19-16, 01:32 PM
#35
I'm not sure where satch is going with the map lights and being in park- although I have no doubt there's a reason- but I'll reiterate that the brake circuit is the place to start.
It's are a dead simple circuit that is ALWAYS supposed to be hot. so you can ignore a lot of other potentially troublesome components.
Figure out how they screwed up the brake light and you'll possibly solve the other issues in the process.
It's are a dead simple circuit that is ALWAYS supposed to be hot. so you can ignore a lot of other potentially troublesome components.
Figure out how they screwed up the brake light and you'll possibly solve the other issues in the process.
Last edited by clokker; 11-19-16 at 01:45 PM.
11-19-16, 02:08 PM
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I'm not sure where satch is going with the map lights and being in park- although I have no doubt there's a reason- but I'll reiterate that the brake circuit is the place to start.
It's are a dead simple circuit that is ALWAYS supposed to be hot. so you can ignore a lot of other potentially troublesome components.
Figure out how they screwed up the brake light and you'll possibly solve the other issues in the process.
It's are a dead simple circuit that is ALWAYS supposed to be hot. so you can ignore a lot of other potentially troublesome components.
Figure out how they screwed up the brake light and you'll possibly solve the other issues in the process.
11-19-16, 02:10 PM
#37
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I'm not sure where satch is going with the map lights and being in park- although I have no doubt there's a reason- but I'll reiterate that the brake circuit is the place to start.
It's are a dead simple circuit that is ALWAYS supposed to be hot. so you can ignore a lot of other potentially troublesome components.
Figure out how they screwed up the brake light and you'll possibly solve the other issues in the process.
It's are a dead simple circuit that is ALWAYS supposed to be hot. so you can ignore a lot of other potentially troublesome components.
Figure out how they screwed up the brake light and you'll possibly solve the other issues in the process.
11-19-16, 02:17 PM
#38
I'm not sure where satch is going with the map lights and being in park- although I have no doubt there's a reason- but I'll reiterate that the brake circuit is the place to start.
It's are a dead simple circuit that is ALWAYS supposed to be hot. so you can ignore a lot of other potentially troublesome components.
Figure out how they screwed up the brake light and you'll possibly solve the other issues in the process.
It's are a dead simple circuit that is ALWAYS supposed to be hot. so you can ignore a lot of other potentially troublesome components.
Figure out how they screwed up the brake light and you'll possibly solve the other issues in the process.
Last edited by satch; 11-19-16 at 02:37 PM.
11-19-16, 03:47 PM
#41
Junior Member
Thread Starter
11-19-16, 06:28 PM
#42
The green and white wire on the brake switch has power, which is what I meant by hot. But I only get voltage read from it while key is turned half (ignition) or the engine is on, not while key is out or not turned at all. The switch is fine and the green wire gets power when the switch is let go of by the brake pedal.
Unplug the brake switch plug (again, it has the G/W and G wires to it). Once unplugged from the switch, test the G/W wire for constant power w/no key then w/key to on.
Last edited by satch; 11-19-16 at 06:32 PM.
11-19-16, 09:32 PM
#43
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The stop fuse powers the G/W wire and it should have constant power as it is powered by the BTN fuse which powers a host of fuses in the interior fuse box. Thus it is not to be dependent at all of the ignition switch. And what does the emboldened part mean? Which switch (brake or ignition) (which Green wire, Green or Green/White).
Unplug the brake switch plug (again, it has the G/W and G wires to it). Once unplugged from the switch, test the G/W wire for constant power w/no key then w/key to on.
Unplug the brake switch plug (again, it has the G/W and G wires to it). Once unplugged from the switch, test the G/W wire for constant power w/no key then w/key to on.
11-19-16, 09:39 PM
#45
Junior Member
Thread Starter
11-19-16, 09:45 PM
#47
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The previous owner just shared with me that he would pull a fuse under the hood on a regular basis to shut off the touchy alarm. Said that a little before he sold it to me, he pulled a fuse and doing that blew the main 80a fuse. He said he replaced it, but since that the radio hasn't worked. He claimed to be unaware of the fact that none of the lights work. The alarm didn't work when I bought it either though.
11-20-16, 02:57 PM
#49
Junior Member
Thread Starter
11-20-16, 03:12 PM
#50
Both but you should also get a 100 amp fuse for the main fuse before you mess w/the car. One thing you could do though is to test the Green wire in the stop light switch (brake switch). W/meter set to continuity place one meter lead to the Green wire and the other meter lead to ground to see if the meter rings out (mete should not ring out). If meter does ring out then the Green wire is grounded out when it should not and that would explain some things as it relates to the brake lights not working. If the meter does not ring out then please jumper the two wires to force the brake lights to turn on.