J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Dude, you have a really nice car, do you want to trust it to a 37 dollar Ebay special E-Fan? I wouldnt. Spend the money and get a good fan like a Black Magic, or something like that. OR get an OEM one that fits your car as the other poster said. Dont trust your investment to some junk-*** fan..

takahashiRyosukeFC3S

what if someone were to wire in an amplifier capacitor at 1Farad? not sure if it would "pop" / burn the fan motor, but it would definitely NOT put any strain on the electrical system of the car... I was thinking about doing this myself. just need to get all the components.

1: HIGH CFM fan
2: Thermo-switch set at 210* (i think that's where it should be about)
3: 1Farad Capacitor from my local audio shop

though some different wiring could turn the fan on at 200* and then just ramp up the voltage to the fan rather than an instant on. i think basically that would involve a cap, a LARGE resistor, a high tollerance MosFet to control the setup... sorry just kinda thinking out loud.

TR

Needa13b

If i'm not mistaken, and/or drunk, Power is Power. Anytime your want to convert one form of power to the other, your going to LOSE power. Putting and E-FAN in will put less strain on your mechanical power, (from the eccentric shaft), but will put more demand on your alternator, (exceeding the original mechanical demand). Since your alternator is driven mechanically, now you have made up for the original, "less demand" on your engine, with "more" demand on your engine to run your alternator. I think Aaron Cake's page describes this in detail.

drago86

Except for the fact tht the fan is on a thermostat, so the only time its running is when your stopped or going very slowly. When your actually moving, when you usually need power, the fan will be off which = 0 power loss.

Even the stock clutch fan takes some power when its slipping, all be it very little.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

note to self:

if you have a large FMIC, get a front lip and an underbelly tray to keep air flowing through the radiator. i made a cheap underbelly pan and it dropped temps drastically.

dennis blackstone

I have an e fan from a escort it works great I have it on a thermo that kick on at my set temp so when I turn the car on it don't suck down my battery and I have a back up override on it I love it but down side it eats up alternators for dinner so know my next investment is a fd alternator

NZConvertible

Dennis, you mentioned this earlier in the thread. You may have forgotten since it was last July...

Don't you just hate resurrected threads?

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

hey guys, i was just reading up on this thread and thinking about going to an e-fan because of higher than normal engine temps. Is there a was to test the stock clutch fan to see if its gripping properly?

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

I'm going with this one fellas. I'll let you guys now how it works out.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=300593

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

For that price, you might want to check a used dual miata fan

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

1 Farad is nothing. Most of these fans draw 50A or so for several seconds to get going. That draw will empty a 1F capacitor in a fraction of a 2nd. Also, of course the capacitor has to recharge again and they want to charge just as fast as they discharge....So guess where that power comes from?

Building a simple R/C circuit connected to the gate of a MOSFET will work, but not very well since you will be asking the MOSFET to dissipate the excess current as heat...So you need a BIG (think expensive) MOSFET or a huge heatsink...A much better way is PWM which is highly efficient since it is basically a very fast on/off switch (at a VERY basic level) that modifies the duty cycle of a squarewave that drives the fan motor. Higher duty cycle = higher fan speed.

However by the time you have figured this all out, burnt out a bunch of expensive MOSFETs and overheated several times you're really going to wish you just stuck with the stock fan...

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

BTW: This is the answer I was looking for.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

DAMN what happened to pengaru? (vito)

i havent seen him post on here in years

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

he was online a few hours ago

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

i just finished reading Aarons e-fan write up but i got lost ...please correct me if i am wrong because i am going e-fan too

1-fan must be atleast 2500cfm
2-must have a shroud
3- electonics...dont know crap about-i need what voltage fan to get what amps so on so forth

i just bough my griffin aluminum rad so now i need a fan i am also going with 16" fan because the rad core is 17"

Whizbang

my input.

i got an efan out of a Lumina Minivan for free and for whatever act of god, it was the same height as our radiator and about the same width. I have a thermstat control im going to wire in soon, but i have been using a switch and just leaving it on all the time. the fan is quite large and flows great. it actaully spins the little stock efan on the other side of the rad. from how much air its pulling. i like having the room. Everything is easier, especailly considering i work on the car more than i drive it. so, if done right, the benefiets, to me, are worth it, i still have the clutch and fan sitting in the basement if i ever need them, but more than likely, ill be fine.

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

what about a WYSECO efan ever heard of them

pengarufoo

I'm still lingering around, just been busy with work... apparently you've owned and sold an fd in the mean time and are currently reacquiring the white T2 we picked up in VA?

That T2 was pretty nice

pengarufoo

I don't know what the CFM requirement is for the stock cooling system / stock engine configuration.... but Summit claims the Mr. Gasket fan I used is 2000CFM, I never have coolant temperature problems with this arrangement. I also have a large aluminum radiator and a fresh motor... so any of you looking to duplicate my savings please take that into consideration.

I still think it's a better approach to just find the cheapest fan that meets your CFM and dimensional requirements and just fab together a sheet metal shroud, it will likely be cheaper than the FAL Black Magic fan in the end, lighter, and a cleaner install.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Don't know the wxact CFM, but the flex-a-lite black magic pulls\pushes 2800cfm; I haven't had a problem with it.

Absolutely!

Flex a lite includes everything you will need, the shroud does not cover the entire radiator though. http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Agree, I will be installing a Miata or FD fan on a 1st gen, hopefully before summer.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You need a 12V fan. If you don't already know this, I don't suggest you mess with your vehicle's electrical system.

lupin

iTrader: (3)

So if you used a fd alt and a efan from mr gasket how much lighter would it be than a stock clutch fan?

NZConvertible

Why would you expect it to be lighter?

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

what about a wyseco e fan...theres a shop thta sells nothing but v-8 crap and they use them they even come with 3 year warranty