Eibach Pro Kit 5513.140 on a vert ?
#3
Driving RX7's since 1979
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Check the difference in specs on the Racing Beat web site for their Vert vs. non-vert springs. It's the weight difference and resultant how the car sits.
Non-Verts - "These springs have been designed with a rate increase of approximately 20% (front - 156 lb/in) and 20% (rear - 128 lb/in) with a modest drop of 1-inch (front and rear)."
Verts - "These springs have been designed with a rate increase of approximately 20% (front - 139 lb/in) and 20% (rear - 134 lb/in) with a modest drop of 1/2-inch (front and rear)."
#4
Theoretical Tinkerer
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I thought Mazdatrix had a comparison of both eibach springs and the only difference between the two was a 5lb/in difference in the 'soft' range (85 vs 90) and had equal rates in the 'hard' range (140 ish). Both listed a .8" drop. Can't find it anymore, but I did a lot of research when I first looked into them. If you look at Mazdatrix's spring page, they explain the progressive spring rating, but do not have any progressive springs listed. I bet Racing Beat has done a bit more homework on their rx7 springs compared to eibach that supports thousands of road and race vehicles. It doesn't make sense to group the high performance models with the heavy model because then you'd end up with a tall sport spring or a low vert spring.
#6
Found this older thread which was a little helpful
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...h+vert+springs
I think I'll get them . Next decision will be AGX or Illumina
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...h+vert+springs
I think I'll get them . Next decision will be AGX or Illumina
#7
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I wouldn't say it's that simple.
Check the difference in specs on the Racing Beat web site for their Vert vs. non-vert springs. It's the weight difference and resultant how the car sits.
Non-Verts - "These springs have been designed with a rate increase of approximately 20% (front - 156 lb/in) and 20% (rear - 128 lb/in) with a modest drop of 1-inch (front and rear)."
Verts - "These springs have been designed with a rate increase of approximately 20% (front - 139 lb/in) and 20% (rear - 134 lb/in) with a modest drop of 1/2-inch (front and rear)."
Check the difference in specs on the Racing Beat web site for their Vert vs. non-vert springs. It's the weight difference and resultant how the car sits.
Non-Verts - "These springs have been designed with a rate increase of approximately 20% (front - 156 lb/in) and 20% (rear - 128 lb/in) with a modest drop of 1-inch (front and rear)."
Verts - "These springs have been designed with a rate increase of approximately 20% (front - 139 lb/in) and 20% (rear - 134 lb/in) with a modest drop of 1/2-inch (front and rear)."
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#11
Living on the North Coast
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I thought Mazdatrix had a comparison of both eibach springs and the only difference between the two was a 5lb/in difference in the 'soft' range (85 vs 90) and had equal rates in the 'hard' range (140 ish). Both listed a .8" drop. Can't find it anymore, but I did a lot of research when I first looked into them. If you look at Mazdatrix's spring page, they explain the progressive spring rating, but do not have any progressive springs listed. I bet Racing Beat has done a bit more homework on their rx7 springs compared to eibach that supports thousands of road and race vehicles. It doesn't make sense to group the high performance models with the heavy model because then you'd end up with a tall sport spring or a low vert spring.
I like the KYB AGX struts and shocks. One nice thing about their rear shocks is that they are adjustable at the bottom. That avoids the hassle with removing the rear speakers to get at the adjusters at the top of other brands rear shocks. Just watch and don't burn your arm on the mufflers when you reach around down there to get at the adjusters.
#12
Warheads on foreheads!
iTrader: (8)
You are correct. They removed the Eibach info last year after Eibach discontinued their FC springs offerings. I printed off that page and still have it in the file.
I like the KYB AGX struts and shocks. One nice thing about their rear shocks is that they are adjustable at the bottom. That avoids the hassle with removing the rear speakers to get at the adjusters at the top of other brands rear shocks. Just watch and don't burn your arm on the mufflers when you reach around down there to get at the adjusters.
I like the KYB AGX struts and shocks. One nice thing about their rear shocks is that they are adjustable at the bottom. That avoids the hassle with removing the rear speakers to get at the adjusters at the top of other brands rear shocks. Just watch and don't burn your arm on the mufflers when you reach around down there to get at the adjusters.
#13
You are correct. They removed the Eibach info last year after Eibach discontinued their FC springs offerings. I printed off that page and still have it in the file.
I like the KYB AGX struts and shocks. One nice thing about their rear shocks is that they are adjustable at the bottom. That avoids the hassle with removing the rear speakers to get at the adjusters at the top of other brands rear shocks. Just watch and don't burn your arm on the mufflers when you reach around down there to get at the adjusters.
I like the KYB AGX struts and shocks. One nice thing about their rear shocks is that they are adjustable at the bottom. That avoids the hassle with removing the rear speakers to get at the adjusters at the top of other brands rear shocks. Just watch and don't burn your arm on the mufflers when you reach around down there to get at the adjusters.
Any comments on the AGX settings ?
I have to drive on some good and crap roads here . I wouldnt mind a comfortable ride while just driving in traffic , but some tightness when i have a chance to wind her up . Looking for the small range of initial settings that would likely give the best compromise for both ? Hopefully the progressive part will help provide what I am after and not get sprung down by the added vert weight.
#14
Rotary Freak
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I keep my AGXs at the rear at 2 or 3 (so at the soft end of 8 settings) for both street and autocross duty, on 250in/lb Eibach ProRace springs. I could use a little more compression damping at the the rear, but run into problems of both harsh street ride, and jacking at the rear (where the rebound rate is too high, so the suspension can't extend fast enough to keep inside rear tire grip in rapid transitions).
Fronts I run the AGX's at 2 for street, 4 (full hard) for autocross, on 350in/lb springs. I'm going to guess that for street use, you can start there - your springs are softer and the car heavier, but I'm a bit underdamped on the front for the street anyway - for me it's a choice between that, or being pounded by frost heaves and expansion joints. You may even be able to go firmer on the rear. But since the AGX's are easy to adjust, make a point of playing with settings and see what works.
Fronts I run the AGX's at 2 for street, 4 (full hard) for autocross, on 350in/lb springs. I'm going to guess that for street use, you can start there - your springs are softer and the car heavier, but I'm a bit underdamped on the front for the street anyway - for me it's a choice between that, or being pounded by frost heaves and expansion joints. You may even be able to go firmer on the rear. But since the AGX's are easy to adjust, make a point of playing with settings and see what works.
#15
Living on the North Coast
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I live in the Cleveland area, so our roads are not very good - even in the fair weather months when I drive the '90 GXL. I typically run the KYB AGX in the front at either 2 or 3 and run the rears at 4 or 5. The key is setting them up to minimize any "porpoise" effect compounded by the short wheelbase of the car - I have found that the key is the rear setting. That is why the rears have 8 settings and the fronts only have 4.
I have always been pleased with the way that the Eibach springs improve (on any car that I have owned) both the ride and handle characteristics so well and the GXL is no exception. As a point of reference, I have also replaced all the front and rear suspension bushings with ES poly, installed DTSS eliminators and run a ST front S4 bar (on the softer setting) and RB rear bar both with the stock S5 end links. Right now the car has 16 x 7.5" 30mm offset rims with 225/50-16 tires front and rear. In the spring I am installing the lower control arm brace and an upper strut tower brace to tighten/sharpen things up a bit in the front.
I have always been pleased with the way that the Eibach springs improve (on any car that I have owned) both the ride and handle characteristics so well and the GXL is no exception. As a point of reference, I have also replaced all the front and rear suspension bushings with ES poly, installed DTSS eliminators and run a ST front S4 bar (on the softer setting) and RB rear bar both with the stock S5 end links. Right now the car has 16 x 7.5" 30mm offset rims with 225/50-16 tires front and rear. In the spring I am installing the lower control arm brace and an upper strut tower brace to tighten/sharpen things up a bit in the front.
#16
Living on the North Coast
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BTW, this is what KYB states for the FC AGX struts/shocks;
KYB AGX - low pressure, twin tube, damping rate adjustable struts/shocks.
The AGX products have the following approximate damping force values.
When adjusted, both rebound and compression damping forces change.
Setting#: Relative Value
#1 - Same as Factory 100
#2 - Same as our GR2 products (10~15% firmer than Factory) 115
#3 - 50% firmer than #2 172
#4 - 30% firmer than #3 223
For an eight position adjustable product, the damping force values are
approximately the following:
With #2 being Factory at a relative value of 100,
#1 = 95 (5% softer than Factory
#2 = 100 (Factory damping force)
#3 = 107.5 (7.5% firmer than Factory)
#4 = 115 (15% firmer than Factory)
#5 = 143.5 (43.5% firmer than Factory)
#6 = 172 (72% firmer than Factory
#7 = 197.5 (97.5% firmer than Factory)
#8 = 223 (123 % firmer than Factory)
KYB AGX - low pressure, twin tube, damping rate adjustable struts/shocks.
The AGX products have the following approximate damping force values.
When adjusted, both rebound and compression damping forces change.
Setting#: Relative Value
#1 - Same as Factory 100
#2 - Same as our GR2 products (10~15% firmer than Factory) 115
#3 - 50% firmer than #2 172
#4 - 30% firmer than #3 223
For an eight position adjustable product, the damping force values are
approximately the following:
With #2 being Factory at a relative value of 100,
#1 = 95 (5% softer than Factory
#2 = 100 (Factory damping force)
#3 = 107.5 (7.5% firmer than Factory)
#4 = 115 (15% firmer than Factory)
#5 = 143.5 (43.5% firmer than Factory)
#6 = 172 (72% firmer than Factory
#7 = 197.5 (97.5% firmer than Factory)
#8 = 223 (123 % firmer than Factory)
#17
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that chart is nice, lol, i was going to stay start @1 in the front and maybe 2-3 in the rear....
#19
Apex Seal Treachery!!!!!!
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I have had Tein S tech springs on two different vert. First turbo vert was with Tokico blues and Teins. The second and current turbo vert I have Illuminas set to their stiffest with the same Tein springs.
The first turbo vert the front tires would rub on the spring when taking turns. The second one I have just started driving after a rebuild and so far no rubbing.
Point being on verts I would be mindful of the drop. I believe the drop is lower on Teins than Eibachs. The Teins are too much of a drop and I'll eventually swap them out.
The first turbo vert the front tires would rub on the spring when taking turns. The second one I have just started driving after a rebuild and so far no rubbing.
Point being on verts I would be mindful of the drop. I believe the drop is lower on Teins than Eibachs. The Teins are too much of a drop and I'll eventually swap them out.
#20
Turbo vert
iTrader: (33)
I live in the Cleveland area, so our roads are not very good - even in the fair weather months when I drive the '90 GXL. I typically run the KYB AGX in the front at either 2 or 3 and run the rears at 4 or 5. The key is setting them up to minimize any "porpoise" effect compounded by the short wheelbase of the car - I have found that the key is the rear setting. That is why the rears have 8 settings and the fronts only have 4.
I have always been pleased with the way that the Eibach springs improve (on any car that I have owned) both the ride and handle characteristics so well and the GXL is no exception. As a point of reference, I have also replaced all the front and rear suspension bushings with ES poly, installed DTSS eliminators and run a ST front S4 bar (on the softer setting) and RB rear bar both with the stock S5 end links. Right now the car has 16 x 7.5" 30mm offset rims with 225/50-16 tires front and rear. In the spring I am installing the lower control arm brace and an upper strut tower brace to tighten/sharpen things up a bit in the front.
I have always been pleased with the way that the Eibach springs improve (on any car that I have owned) both the ride and handle characteristics so well and the GXL is no exception. As a point of reference, I have also replaced all the front and rear suspension bushings with ES poly, installed DTSS eliminators and run a ST front S4 bar (on the softer setting) and RB rear bar both with the stock S5 end links. Right now the car has 16 x 7.5" 30mm offset rims with 225/50-16 tires front and rear. In the spring I am installing the lower control arm brace and an upper strut tower brace to tighten/sharpen things up a bit in the front.
#21
Thanks for all the input and ditto on the Deacon Blue chart . very helpful resource.
I think I'll start 2 on the front , 2 on the back . Drive it around and start increasing the back to see what feels the best for the mixture of conditions of Winnipeg streets ( yes those awesome expansion joints ... thunk thunk thunk thunk ). I tend to burn more gas than necessary finding routes to places with the smoothest pavement
I think I'll start 2 on the front , 2 on the back . Drive it around and start increasing the back to see what feels the best for the mixture of conditions of Winnipeg streets ( yes those awesome expansion joints ... thunk thunk thunk thunk ). I tend to burn more gas than necessary finding routes to places with the smoothest pavement
#22
FC guy
iTrader: (8)
i dont quite remember where I am at with my agx's, im really thinking I am just about the middle setting of each. It is real easy to change while driving to get them right and I havent touched them since the day I set them.
I do have RB coupe springs on my turbo vert. Im not sure what the difference in advertised drop is between them and the eibachs but the coupe springs pretty much put me at the same height I was at with my worn stock set up.
I dont even know if you can pick up on it in these pictures, I have since lowered the front another 1/2", and its hard to compare now because I have changed rims as well
stock 155k suspension, then after rb coupe springs and agx's, I dont have another one since the additional 1/2" drop. last pic gives you an idea how much the look can change with tire and rim sizes.
If you are after a lower drop go with the coupe springs of any set up.
I do have RB coupe springs on my turbo vert. Im not sure what the difference in advertised drop is between them and the eibachs but the coupe springs pretty much put me at the same height I was at with my worn stock set up.
I dont even know if you can pick up on it in these pictures, I have since lowered the front another 1/2", and its hard to compare now because I have changed rims as well
stock 155k suspension, then after rb coupe springs and agx's, I dont have another one since the additional 1/2" drop. last pic gives you an idea how much the look can change with tire and rim sizes.
If you are after a lower drop go with the coupe springs of any set up.
#24
Thanks .
Well I finally got the Eibach and AGX put in . The pre- Eibach ( 23 year old springs ) distance floor to center of fender lip was 652 mm for rear and 634 mm for front . The day after Eibach installation measurements were 638 mm for rear and 624 mm for front . So a little more than 1/2 inch rear and little less than 1/2 inch front drop . Not sure if springs will settle a bit in a week . Car looks looks good . Guy couldnt do alignment though because his equipment wouldnt clear the ShineAuto front bumper without damaging it LOL. Have to find a different shop to do it . Drive home felt solid though without the alignment being done
The AGX's are set at 2 in front and 4 in rear . Initial drive on our shitty streets is very comfortable compared to stock ( Stock CD player didnt skip) . I havent tested the high speed cornering on an on-ramp yet . Looking forward to the progressive spring and stiffer AGX settings to reveal themselves at the apex and 100km/hr in third
Well I finally got the Eibach and AGX put in . The pre- Eibach ( 23 year old springs ) distance floor to center of fender lip was 652 mm for rear and 634 mm for front . The day after Eibach installation measurements were 638 mm for rear and 624 mm for front . So a little more than 1/2 inch rear and little less than 1/2 inch front drop . Not sure if springs will settle a bit in a week . Car looks looks good . Guy couldnt do alignment though because his equipment wouldnt clear the ShineAuto front bumper without damaging it LOL. Have to find a different shop to do it . Drive home felt solid though without the alignment being done
The AGX's are set at 2 in front and 4 in rear . Initial drive on our shitty streets is very comfortable compared to stock ( Stock CD player didnt skip) . I havent tested the high speed cornering on an on-ramp yet . Looking forward to the progressive spring and stiffer AGX settings to reveal themselves at the apex and 100km/hr in third
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