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Hey all. It’s been awhile since I have posted any updates on getting my dads 88 vert running.
I have a vacuum leak that’s keeping the MAF sensor from staying open. It will close, shut off fuel and we’re done.
Got a good smoke tester and smoke coming from the EGR valve area.
So I’m thinking we’re gonna just remove and EGR block off plate. No use trying to find a new EGR valve is there?
Finally the question:
If I put the plate on, can I leave all the “rats nest emission stuff in place? I really want to keep stock as much as possible. Just want to remove the egr valve, slap on the plate and replace the intake manifold and pray we have it running!
Yes you can leave the rats nest and associated vacuum stuff. Just cap off the ends of the vacuum lines for the stuff you are removing. I did drill a hole and add a vacuum nipple to my block off plate. This is the original reference source for the MAP sensor.
As far as I know, the EGR valve has nothing to do with the MAP sensor vacuum line. The picture in the previous post appears to be of the ACV block off plate. Turbo cars apparently get their boost/vacuum reference for the MAP sensor from a nipple on the ACV.
Yes, you can block off the EGR and cap the vacuum lines. It won't have any bearing on how the engine runs aside from maybe losing a MPG or two.
If the place you live does emissions testing (or if that is still even a thing for cars this old) you might get in trouble for not having functional EGR...
If anybody knows of an effective way of rebuilding our EGR valves, I'd be very interested. As far as I know, nobody sells a new replacement. Last time I saw a replacement (18 years ago?) the asking price was more than I paid for the car at the time.
Last edited by DaBrkddy; Jul 23, 2025 at 09:25 PM.
Cool. Thanks for the info.
Luckily my part of Ohio never checked cars. And antiques are exempt anyway.
Wont be able to get to it this week, but I’ll take the intake manifold off here and slap that puppy on there.
I pumped a bunch of smoke in there and that was the only area it was coming from.
Finally got around to taking the intake manifold off and got the egr off. Completely full of carbon.
Block off plate is on. Letting the rtv harden and will torque down tomorrow.
Question:
One hose went into the egr valve. Will cap that off obviously.
But what about these 2 that go into the back? Cap them or just plug them back in? My aim isn’t to do the full rats nest delete. But just to get the car running.
Just to be clear for those who might have an answer. Those two are for the rear side of the dynamic chamber?
Correct. I saw those two coming off the back and they head into the rats nest. Just clarifying if I need to cap off anything else with the egr plate installed now.
In other news. Apparently I torqued the manifold a little TOO much last time I installed.
A new stud is like $3. But to ship it from Cali is like $10! Argh!
if all you want to do is remove the EGR, then you should just cap that hose, and put everything else back
Yes. Cool. I’m gonna cap off the one that went into the egr. Then putting everything back. I’m hopeful this is where my vacuum leak was coming from. Thats at least where the smoke come out of!
pretty common for the EGR diaphragm to get brittle and cause a leak, not sure it would be enough to cause your issue but hopefully so. you may need to apply a little pressure with the smoke if it isn't a pressurized tester.
i have a pressure port on my smoke tester so i can apply air from an air compressor through the smoker, it doesn't take much though.
pretty common for the EGR diaphragm to get brittle and cause a leak, not sure it would be enough to cause your issue but hopefully so. you may need to apply a little pressure with the smoke if it isn't a pressurized tester.
i have a pressure port on my smoke tester so i can apply air from an air compressor through the smoker, it doesn't take much though.
Yep! My “smoke machine” was a home made job. Pickle jar. Electric hot knife. 2 holes for incoming air and outgoing. Used my air compressor to push air and the EGR was the only area I was seeing smoke.
I also did order a new MAF sensor from rock auto, installed and tested to see if it was the problem. Same results. So I returned that for a refund.
Car runs great if someone stand there with a screwdriver holding the MAF open from closing!
Yep! My “smoke machine” was a home made job. Pickle jar. Electric hot knife. 2 holes for incoming air and outgoing. Used my air compressor to push air and the EGR was the only area I was seeing smoke.
I also did order a new MAF sensor from rock auto, installed and tested to see if it was the problem. Same results. So I returned that for a refund.
Car runs great if someone stand there with a screwdriver holding the MAF open from closing!
yeah still sounds like a vacuum leak, did you ever monitor the fuel pressure or voltage to verify pump is shutting down before stalling? you can also try checking the TPS voltage and backing out the idle air screw to see if they help.
That ground wire in the upper left of the last picture probably needs cleaned up.
Those are your engine sensor ground wires in one lug. These go back to the ECU.
Just unscrew the bolt and clean the mating surfaces of crud. The lug will have a dull shine at worst. Add some dielectric and reassemble.
Check the firewall ground to the trans bell housing and do the same. If these connections are weak, the car will not run as well as it should.
At least, that is my recommendation. If you still have issues after reassembly, you'll have a reasonable guarantee this is not the issue.
That ground wire in the upper left of the last picture probably needs cleaned up.
Those are your engine sensor ground wires in one lug. These go back to the ECU.
Just unscrew the bolt and clean the mating surfaces of crud. The lug will have a dull shine at worst. Add some dielectric and reassemble.
Check the firewall ground to the trans bell housing and do the same. If these connections are weak, the car will not run as well as it should.
At least, that is my recommendation. If you still have issues after reassembly, you'll have a reasonable guarantee this is not the issue.
1,000 thanks to you for mentioning! I def wanna get these things now! Thanks again!
initial set coupler is a 2 pin green connector near the leading coil packs. you can try backing out the idle screw on top of the intake, 500 is a bit too low even with the bac not on.
Now you can finally do the TPS set procedure. It makes a huge difference, for many. Wait.... this has been a bit of a saga... did you set that already?
Yes. What a feeling! Finally!!! lol. Been at this since winter.
Tonight we started on bleeding the brakes and the right front caliper is stuck. That’s got our attention currently.
But I put all the intake plastic back on and tightened up the throttle cable.
Now it’s idling at 1400. Which is a tad high, but honestly just happy it runs! We have 5 forward gears and even a reverse too.
Still need to get an exhaust system for it. This winter. lol.
Can’t thank everyone one this forum enough. I’ve learned quite a lot and hope to help others with this fun trip!
