OK, I have searched through the 2nd gen forum and archive, and I think I have figured out which ECU's I have.

N326 - S4 NA
N332 - S4 TII
N351 - S5 NA

What I'd like to know, however, is what the other possibilities are. I saw that an 88 vert should have a N338, and that N350 through N353, at least, are for S5 NA's.

What else is out there?

On a related note, do the sensors in the EM wiring harness (boost sensor, e.g.) have to match? I have a harness with a N327 boost sensor, and a N326 atmospheric(?) sensor (looks like boost sensor, but without the hose). I would assume, since they're both of the N32X variety, and the engine ran fine anyway, it should be ok.

Ren

 

These things are a pain in the butt to look through (on my antique computer anyway), but you could verify your question for sure that way.

Parts fiches.http://www.mazdaformance.com/rx7.htm

 

Well you are sort right on those, I only know the S4 though:
N326 86-87 S4-NA
N327 88 S4-NA
N332 86-87 T2
N333 88 T2
N338 88 Vert (will run a 13BT though)

Not sure on that... most parts are not interchangeable except ECUs for the first couple of digits.

 

This http://www.mazdaformance.com/rx7parts.htm and search around on that site.

 

Credit this list to Dale Clark (dcfc3s)...

ECU LIST

ECU Part Numbers (this is the version # that's on the ECU itself)
84-85 GSL-SE N304 18 880A
86-87 NA N326 18 880
N3Y6 18 880
87 Turbo N332 18 880
88 NA N327 18 880
88 Turbo N333 18 880
88 Convertible N338 18 880
89 NA California N350 18 880
89 NA Fed. N351 18 880
89 Conv. CA N352 18 880
89 Conv. Fed. N353 18 880
89 Turbo N370 18 880

NOTE - If there's an "R" at the end, it's a remanufactured ECU. They
also change the last 3 digits to "881". Example - '89 Turbo Reman. -
N370 18 881R

A remanufactured ECU isn't necessarily bad; it DOES mean the ECU was
replaced.

 

Be careful what you swish for!

"Hvað er þetta?"
"Það er hverfihreyfill með forþjöppu!"

Ren what the fuch does that mean???
Looks familiar

 

the way mazda's parts system works xxxx-18-880 (or 881) is an ecu. they used to be 880 and they started using 881 for some of them. if there is a letter behind the 880 (881) the ecu has been updated so
n3a1-18-880a is "better" than the n3a1-18-880.
r is remanufactured.

some other ecus
86?-88 jdm t2 n319-18-880
89-91 jdm t2 n374-18-880


mike

 

Two unrelated quotes. The first one is from a IM session with a friend of mine. I mistakenly added an "s" to "wish."

The second (set), in quotations, is a rather hacked up Icelandic exchange. It is supposed to say:

"What is that?"
"It's a turbocharged rotary engine."

The problem is I haven't been able to find out what the exact Icelandic name of the rotary engine is, so I had to use something similar (turbine engine, basically). The nearest alternative one of my Icelandic friends could come up with was "RX-7 vél," which was just too much of a giveaway.

Now you know.

Ren

 

Kevin,

I take it the "89" numbers apply to all S5's, right?

Ren

 

Is that stuff available on CD somewhere? There doesn't seem to be one you can buy on that site. It takes forever to download...

Man, I hate dialups...

Ren

 

I downloaded it to my hard drive. Yes, its slow. BUT, it should be accurate information once you find the info you want.

Oh. See what j9fd3s wrote above. I looked at his home web site and he seems to really be into the workings of the ECU. Sorry, I don't have his web site at home, so I can't give it to you.

And if j9fd3s sees these words, maybe you can answer a question about the ECU. On pin 2A there should be a reference voltage of something like 4.5 volts. DO you know what item puts out that reference voltage???? In the ECU? Thank you.

 

My mechanic swapped ECU's to see if one was bad. Now I have two bad N352's (in both my verts). Does anyone know if ANY other ECU will work in any way, shape or form??? Limp home mode sucks and my my money tree has lost all it's leaves.

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/ecutype.html

I just put this up several days ago.
Yes, it's based on Dale Clark's info posted eons ago.
I do have a couple Euro/Japan ECU numbers throw in there as extras.


-Ted

 

The ECU's are swapable within each sub-year group - i.e. Zenki versus Kouki, S4 versus S5.
NA to NA, and turbo to turbo only - the only exception is the N338 vert ECU.  I have the details on the URL I posted.

Whoa, slow down here - how do you know the ECU is a fault?
Did you ground the initial set plug and NOT have the 3-second self-check ENGINE light on?

If you are blowing ECU's, you have a short somewhere.




-Ted

 

OK. Long version: Car runs like crap after coming out of 1 year storage while my National Guard unit was deployed. Take to mechanic. Two days later, no results so he swaps the computer out of my other 89vert (got 2 of 'em). Same problem, only now in BOTH cars. More work by mechanic. Finds bad bulb in check engine light circuit. replaces bulb. Gets bad code for electric oil pump. Finds out from a source the EOP motor failure kills ECU's. ECU now gives a light for engine fail on first acceleration after being cleared. When interrogated it comes on, goes off for 4 seconds, comes back on hard (never flases failure codes.) Both cars are in limp home mode now with secondary injectors not activating. Engine accelerates slowly, bogs at over 1/3 throttle, will go past 3800 but only VERY slowly with much throttle playing. And that's in the one that ran perfectly before swapping only the ECU. Because of potential grounding issues a.k.a. 3800 stumble, all grounds were beefed and reworked, which made it better and smoother, but with the same characteristics, just not as pronounced.

 

Mine is a Uk spec TII with a jap spec engine and my ECU # is N380

 

Will the n351 ecu work in place of the n353 that i have in my vert?