Ok this may be stupid but I am trying to install the ecentric shaft pulley, and I am confused as to what my haynes manual says.

When installing it says to have the ecentric key lined up with the timing mark on the housing. Now my question is do I have to install the pulley with the yellow timing mark on the pulley lined up with the timing mark on the housing as well?

I ask because it seems that the pulley's bolt holes wont line up that way and the yellow mark on the pulley would be in a different place with the ecentric shaft lined up.

Please let me know which way is correct so I can get this running. Thanks a lot.
Eric

 

The pulley only mounts one way.
You cannot put it on backwards or "wrong".
AFTER you install the pulley, THEN you spin the motor to line the mark up with the pin?


-Ted

 

I was using a haynes manual and it was kind of misleading. The car doesnt stay running so I am going through the steps to make sure nothing was messed up. I am going through trouble shooting with the timing right now and wasnt sure about that pulley.

Thanks for the help.

Eric

 

there is a little circular "stamp" on each pulley as well as on the end of the e-shaft line those up then turn the motor to TDC using your pulley marks and the front cover pin. hope this helps

 

Ok well the pulley is attached correctly and now I am working on the timing. I managed to get the car to start rev to ~1k rpms then it cuts out. I adjusted the Crank angle sensor but I have questions about it.

The first time I alligned the sensor correctly with the dot and line matching up I installed it and it did the start to 1K rpms and died. So I wanted to make sure it was still aligned that maybe it twisted when I was putting it back in.

So I lign the pulley up to the timing mark pull the sensor and the line and dot on the sensor were no where near each other. Is that supposed to happen or is something messing it up and thats why the car wont stay running?!?

Please help I need to get this one sold so I can buy another one I just found.

Thanks

 

Align the pulley and timing pin on the front cover.

Hold the CAS in your hand with its top cover off.

Align the marks at the bottom of the CAS.

Hold that position and now look at the top of the CAS and note the positon of the moving parts to the fixed parts inside the CAS.

Install the CAS. Now rotate the CAS body til the fixed and moving parts inside the CAS are again aligned as you saw them in the step above. Done

 

sweet ill try this tomorrow morning! u guys are awesome with all the help!
Eric

 

just did that and it still revs to 1500 rpms and then dies right off. could I have fouled the plugs while trying to get it to start?

 

Heres a video I shot with my cell phone:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W65rmZagjTg

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html

Sounds more like a large air leak or the like.

So. If you go to the car and align the pulley marks with the fixed pin, then look in the top of the CAS, the two *Pointers* on the moving shaft are cutting across the corners of the black coils. Right?

If this a recent rebuild? When was the last time this car ran decent?

 

Actually I have been building this car for the last year. The motor's never been fired since it was rebuilt. Yeah I got the cas sensor all ligned up right like what was said in the instructions.

My buddy that has been helping me thinks its an air leak somewhere or the air flow meter isnt hooked up right. I will have time to work on it again tonight but Ive looked and havent found any vaccum lines that were leaking or not blocked off.

 

So.....new rebuild. I'd take a wild guess and say it's flooding. It's flooding because the seals have not seated yet and most likely the end piece on the apex seal has not seperated yet (glued on, remember).

Low compression for any reason........difficult to start. Sounds like the timing was good enough to start though.

Tell you what. I've a hunch about something. Get the battery fully charged (sounded strong in the video). Then prior to starting, go to the CAS. Loosen the bolt/nut that holds it down. Rotate the CAS all the way counter clockwise and bolt it down. It'll be at the end of the slot of the CAS. Don't pull it out of the engine, just rotate it counterclockwise as described.

Then try to start it again and see if the results are different. Won't take but a few minutes of your day to do that.

If that is not an improvement, put the CAS back where it should be. You might consider making a fuel cut switch then. Or have someone at the fuel pump plug to disconnect it. Spray starter fluid in the air filter for not more than two seconds, then start the engine. As soon as it starts the other fellow reconnects the fuel pump plug and the engine stays running with your foot.

If the CAS DRIVE gear on the eccentric shaft is put on backwards, then the timing will be off unless you either reinstall the drive gear or make up for it being *** backwards, by rotating the CAS body counter clockwise as described above. That's why I mentioned rotating it above. Hey, I said it was just a hunch, nothing more.

 

Well thanks for the help but we figured it out. I captured a rx7 genius from a peformance shop near my house tonight.

Apparently there is a huge vaccum leak somethere that is causing the air flow meter behind the filter, the door not to stay open. Which is causing the fuel pump to shut off. So with him holding it open it ran and here is a small video of what it sounds like (ignore the images)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9-gVpLFPsg

So now I just have to find which rubber line is cracked and whala.

 

Jumpering the fuel pump check connector does the same thing as the vane in the afm moving aft and putting a gnd on the Circuit Opening Relay. Just saying, jumper the fuel pump check connector is easier than pushing the vane/door aft. Fuel pump will run all the time with it jumpered if the key is ON or better.

 

Well almost 2 months later I still have not figured out this vaccum leak. I've searched through many hoses without ripping off the intake manifold to go further down and still have not found anything. Me getting a vert hasnt helped me want to work on this either.

Anyway I was doing research about rats nest removal and only found for the 1st gen. Does anyone have any ideas about fixxing this problem or should I just rip off the intake manifold and look deeper for the leak? Thanks for the help.

 

What happened to your genius?


-Ted

 

They don't do well in captivity.