Ebay Clutch Experiances
well rested,buffet o food
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 1
From: NY
"And he just broke the trans dumbass".
What i am saying fat retard is that most people wont be anywhere near this, so it is ok to use the na trans and drivetrain.
His power ratings are gobs more than most t2 drivetrain guys.
hate on, troll.
john ny
What i am saying fat retard is that most people wont be anywhere near this, so it is ok to use the na trans and drivetrain.
His power ratings are gobs more than most t2 drivetrain guys.
hate on, troll.
john ny
I second that.
I am not a big fan when people suggest to only buy the biggest and best of everything. Not everyone needs an fourteen puck triple disc carbon fiber clutch capable of holding 9,852ft-lbs of torque.
NA drivetrain held up for aaron long enough with a big turbo bridgeported motor. if the OP wants to use it onhis TII swap, let him. Its free. Like he said, he wants to use it "for now" until he can "get better/other parts".
In no way am I a cheapskate, as I give quality its due credit when necessary, however, I am not one to advocate dumping unnecessary sums of money into overkill products (or brand name for that matter). Its like brand name clothes.. you feel good in your armani suit? good for you! I look just as good in the one i got for 1/5th the price.
Personally I think a lot of people recommend overkill parts and products because they feel stupid for buying into said parts themselves
I am not a big fan when people suggest to only buy the biggest and best of everything. Not everyone needs an fourteen puck triple disc carbon fiber clutch capable of holding 9,852ft-lbs of torque.
NA drivetrain held up for aaron long enough with a big turbo bridgeported motor. if the OP wants to use it onhis TII swap, let him. Its free. Like he said, he wants to use it "for now" until he can "get better/other parts".
In no way am I a cheapskate, as I give quality its due credit when necessary, however, I am not one to advocate dumping unnecessary sums of money into overkill products (or brand name for that matter). Its like brand name clothes.. you feel good in your armani suit? good for you! I look just as good in the one i got for 1/5th the price.
Personally I think a lot of people recommend overkill parts and products because they feel stupid for buying into said parts themselves
Secondly,
What?
I suppose an NA drivetrain would be fine behind a big power TII engine if you were gonna leave some phone dials or maybe balogne slicers on there with hard-*** tires, but what's the point? All that power will just mean lots of wheelspin and no forward motion.
With all the work that goes into putting everything together, just do it right the first time. Ever try to remove the flywheel with the engine in the car? I can tell you from experience that it's a HUGE PITA! You'll have to swap the flywheel when you swap to the correct trans. If you have the time to do a motor swap and build a big-dog TII motor, you have the time to do the rest right.
BTW, you can't convince me that an NA trans can put up with ANY TII motor with any sort of traction. I broke 3 trannies and a diff in my CSP-legal NA with not more than 150-160RWHP because I had grip and I used it.
With all the work that goes into putting everything together, just do it right the first time. Ever try to remove the flywheel with the engine in the car? I can tell you from experience that it's a HUGE PITA! You'll have to swap the flywheel when you swap to the correct trans. If you have the time to do a motor swap and build a big-dog TII motor, you have the time to do the rest right.
BTW, you can't convince me that an NA trans can put up with ANY TII motor with any sort of traction. I broke 3 trannies and a diff in my CSP-legal NA with not more than 150-160RWHP because I had grip and I used it.
FLIPSTAR are you serious
you think n/a drivetrain will hold up on anyones car because aarons car did for a bit, Do you even know aaron cake- have you personally seen him drive and track his car>
I WILL PUT THIS IN A SIMPLE NO WIN FOR YOU SENTENCE!
Get 2 cars with the same amount of hp and on one of them put n/a drivetrain on the other turbo drivetrain. Now take them cars and go to the track launch both cars at around 5k rpms . Let see who will be left standing.
Seriously some of you are loosing your freaking brains early, a quality made r & d part against a made in taiwan knock off will last you longer and outperform no matter what you say in this topic.
I am done with you
you think n/a drivetrain will hold up on anyones car because aarons car did for a bit, Do you even know aaron cake- have you personally seen him drive and track his car>
I WILL PUT THIS IN A SIMPLE NO WIN FOR YOU SENTENCE!
Get 2 cars with the same amount of hp and on one of them put n/a drivetrain on the other turbo drivetrain. Now take them cars and go to the track launch both cars at around 5k rpms . Let see who will be left standing.
Seriously some of you are loosing your freaking brains early, a quality made r & d part against a made in taiwan knock off will last you longer and outperform no matter what you say in this topic.
I am done with you
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
From: Elkland, PA
either way i am going to go with the turbo trans rear and all that when i do the engine instead of tearing it all back out. But when i change this clutch im pulling the engine and trans and putting in the poly mounts for both.
back on topic. a exedy stage 2 you can snag off ebay for relatively cheap. it will do what you need it to.
a better option would be to go with a T2 transmission and a custom driveshaft. (my current setup until I find a local T2 rear.) the clutch I'm rocking in that is a ebay exedy oem (I think I've used 5 of these now) they'll hold at least 250hp no problem.
a better option would be to go with a T2 transmission and a custom driveshaft. (my current setup until I find a local T2 rear.) the clutch I'm rocking in that is a ebay exedy oem (I think I've used 5 of these now) they'll hold at least 250hp no problem.
i play with my wankel
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 0
From: North Manchester, Indiana
not to get more **** started but i do know a kid with an F1 racing 6 puck clutch NA spline with a boosted NA engine at 8 psi. Holds just fine under boost. Beats on it and all.
guys as much fun as it is to fuss back and foward but he has made his mind up on what he's doing. I think it's time to kill this thread. there's alot of people that like doing it right the first time, and I agree with there thoughts on the T2 drivetrain, it would be a smart Idea, but at the same time it honestly depends on your driv style. I installed a stock NA trans into a T2 3 years ago and its still working great. shure its old man driven, but you see where im comming from. If you constantly rape your car like a guy in our chapter does, then even a T2 tranny wont hold for long. he has been through 2 T2 trannys in the past year, on a stock NA motor. It honestly just depends on the driver. But I would still swap a T2 drivetrain IMHO lol
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
From: Elkland, PA
well im 16 and drive it like its stolen most of the time. I havent seen any issues with my tranny so far but im not sure by what you mean by "raping" the car either. I do burnouts, donuts, drifts, play on wet pavement, show off, and the typical **** a 16 year old does.
lol that sounds like raping it to me. j/k the guy i speak of was doing 9000 rpm launches at the local drag stip this weekend. it doesnt really matter, but im shure you are going to come across a problem in the near future. drivetrains dont last forever, especially like that. but whats the point of owning a rx7 if you dont have fun with it
Last edited by dre's customs; Nov 9, 2008 at 10:44 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
From: Elkland, PA
might decide to go 3 rotor twin turbo. just saw a running one on ebay for $4500 trans and all. what else would i need other than a ecu to make that fit. I would rebuild and large streetport or bridge port it before install.
list of what you need.
1) Whole lot of ****....
...just go for OEM with the clutch
beat the **** out of your N/A and when it gives use that excuse to buy the 20B.
From experience and what was mentioned previously, traction and 'shock' kills trans/rearends. I have my *close to stock gsl-se* n/a trans, lasted one track pass and stripped every tooth off of third gear.
The mods:
1. 6 puck sprung disc on a street pressure plate
2. stock heavy iron flywheel
3. street ported 6port(heavy/high compression n/a rotors)
4. 215 width grippy street tires
The cause of failure from what I have gathered is the rotating mass of all the stock heavy iron rotating at 8k rpm and going into third, the rpms didnt have enough time to come back down and instead of the tires chirping it grabbed hard and dusted third.
Solution(aka: bandaide) Get a aluminum flywheel so when shifting the mass is reduced and the rpms will drop substantially quicker creating less drive train shock when driving aggressively. Also, even a sprung 6puck and an upgraded PP is too much grab and will shock the crap out of it, a little slip or cushion is ok, you can go with a stock PP and maybe an upgraded full face disc or you can use the OEM disc and run a nice PP(be for warned, OEM organic discs dont like heat at all, I would recommend steering clear if you are spirited, get it hot and glazed one time, your screwed). Running a slick or a drag radial will ultimately find your weakest link quicker, I suggest a nice street tire. So thats pretty much how to bandaide a N/a drivetrain. My brothers s4 trans grenanded a month after he bought it, he doesnt even track it, OEM style clutch, the rpms hang up in between spririted high RPM shifts and shocks the trans... POP.
Keep in mind, these are just bandaides to make an n/a trans last longer, this is simply spreading the 'load' or 'shock' evenly to the other points of the car and less stress on the trans.
GL with your build and I hope I was able to shine some light on the subject.
The mods:
1. 6 puck sprung disc on a street pressure plate
2. stock heavy iron flywheel
3. street ported 6port(heavy/high compression n/a rotors)
4. 215 width grippy street tires
The cause of failure from what I have gathered is the rotating mass of all the stock heavy iron rotating at 8k rpm and going into third, the rpms didnt have enough time to come back down and instead of the tires chirping it grabbed hard and dusted third.
Solution(aka: bandaide) Get a aluminum flywheel so when shifting the mass is reduced and the rpms will drop substantially quicker creating less drive train shock when driving aggressively. Also, even a sprung 6puck and an upgraded PP is too much grab and will shock the crap out of it, a little slip or cushion is ok, you can go with a stock PP and maybe an upgraded full face disc or you can use the OEM disc and run a nice PP(be for warned, OEM organic discs dont like heat at all, I would recommend steering clear if you are spirited, get it hot and glazed one time, your screwed). Running a slick or a drag radial will ultimately find your weakest link quicker, I suggest a nice street tire. So thats pretty much how to bandaide a N/a drivetrain. My brothers s4 trans grenanded a month after he bought it, he doesnt even track it, OEM style clutch, the rpms hang up in between spririted high RPM shifts and shocks the trans... POP.
Keep in mind, these are just bandaides to make an n/a trans last longer, this is simply spreading the 'load' or 'shock' evenly to the other points of the car and less stress on the trans.
GL with your build and I hope I was able to shine some light on the subject.
Last edited by buldozr; Nov 11, 2008 at 12:04 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
From: Elkland, PA
Heres my 2cents towards the op. Glad you decided to buy a stock clutch. Now as for your idea of converting your N/A to turbo why not just enjoy your N/A and just save up to buy a TII. With the amount of money it costs to actually swap the engine and etc your better off just buying a TII. It would be a lot cheaper too.
Heres my 2cents towards the op. Glad you decided to buy a stock clutch. Now as for your idea of converting your N/A to turbo why not just enjoy your N/A and just save up to buy a TII. With the amount of money it costs to actually swap the engine and etc your better off just buying a TII. It would be a lot cheaper too.
Heres my 2cents towards the op. Glad you decided to buy a stock clutch. Now as for your idea of converting your N/A to turbo why not just enjoy your N/A and just save up to buy a TII. With the amount of money it costs to actually swap the engine and etc your better off just buying a TII. It would be a lot cheaper too.