Joonas

im just wondering what fairly easy modifacations you guys would suggest. I guess you would call it bolt on stuff

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

N/A, turbo II? S4, S5?

Be a little more specific. Of course the easy mods are intake and exhaust (in my opinion)

Jarrett

BDoty311

Check the 2nd gen archive, it has a few threads that are freebie mods including one on porting your intake manifold. The first thing to do if you are looking for power is exhaust, then intake. That will totally open up your RX-7. If you have a turbo though you might need a few more parts to handle the free-flowing exhaust, like an Fuel Cut Defender.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

he has an N/a

free mods huh? well you can gutt your cats. lighten your car a little, Remove your power steering and AC systems. with gutted cats you can remove the air pump. Wait removing the power steering is not free since you either have to fabricate a loop in the lines or buy a manual rack.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

WHAT?!?! I just took the power steering out, no manual rack or loop line.

BE A MAN!

Jarrett

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

But you have to leave a loop in the lines so there is still fluid in the lines don't you? If not tell me how you did it. I want to do that. I wanted to buy one from victoria british but they are like 300 bux. Give us info.

rx-7s rock

I already have the no power steering mod done. It came that way. And I'll be trying to find a lighter hood. I don't always need that passenger seat...

BDoty311

Since you have an n/a you should get some headers first. Pacesetter makes some for cheap, but are cheap in design. Racing Beat makes the best headers on the market for RX-7s and are the ones you should get.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

TRUE DUALS I love them but they are far far FAR from free. Unless you happen to find 1350 dollars lying around.

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

do all the free mods, no egr,tb mod, no bac, all those pesky little emmision if you dont have testing. hehe. a decent home made intak, and an open exhuast

BDoty311

Dont do the TB mod. You will regret it. I do.

Joonas

I didnt say free I said easy Ill start with the exhaust and I was thinking true dual and ohh yeah my car is an 86 gxl

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

Duals is the way to go bro. Without a doubt I have not regrets. After this mod you can throw out all emmisions like ACV airpump EGR and all that suff. I don't know how you take all of it off but i have my ACV off already. since you are willing to spend some cash get a K&N filter and the intake adapter. replace your PD with a banjo bolt. Get new silicone vac lines to eliminate most of the vacume leak problems with 17 year old cemet ones. get some sports seats like sparco or cobras etc

Joonas

dude good idea on the seats I need new ones anyways I was just gonna go find some from a wreker but yeah Ill put some racing style seats in it

the air pump was removed when I got it and it has a K&N filter in it but thats all

marcus219

1000 posts on here and still false information.......

man i didnt loop my lines when i removed my p/s...**** I better go loop the lines....

Looping the lines is not necessary...

BDoty311

Racing seats are not a good idea IMO. Unless you have a race car or a car you autocross often you really dont need these race seats. BTW decent ones are around $1000+ for a pair that dont really make your car perform better.

PS- have you given your car a tune/check-up lately? This is the first thing you should do before you start modding your car.

marcus219

definetely...

nonameo

get lexan glass put in everywhere you can.... its easy because you probably won't be doing it...

remove the audio system. May save you 10-15 lbs? not sure...

you have a GXL so get rid of everything that makes your car a GXL. you will lose a lot of weight.


remove carpeting.

marcus219

your ******* joking right......carpet....audio system..i could see heavy *** subwoofers....

marcus219

this isnt a ******* auto x car...or a drag car.....

DUDE..take out your engine too man!!! sure save alotaaa weight...

autocrash

....and how should we go about it then?

When you loop the lines (which is an easy line to have someone fabricate, BTW... no need to buy it from victoria british) it keeps some/all the power steering fluid in the steering rack, or if you dump some, it keeps the rack clean and lubricated.

If you pump all the fluid from the rack forcibly and close it (cap both lines) you will be pumping air against the caps, increasing steering effort, AND risking having the rack seize up due to lack of lubrication.

If you cap the lines without pumping the fluid from it, you are pumping the fluid against the caps, and last time I checked, fluid is incompressible...

so how did YOU go about it?

marcus219

a manual steering rack has 0 fluid in it...

Its not necessary...I never said looping them was wrong...my steering feels perfectly fine to me...

I turned my steering wheel from lock to lock...obviously ALL of the fluid is not going to come out. Then I put bolts on the steering gear. How is THAT wrong? I was just stating that what he said is bullshit..you dont have to spend a ridiculous amount of money for a line so you can loop it. When I was looking for how to do this...people talked about HAVING to loop the lines...or looping the lines will make it harder...

I'm can see how looping the lines MIGHT make it easier...but I doubt is...to my knowledge...from talking to several wrench heads...you could run your p/s rack with 0 fluid and it wont to a damn thing...

marcus219

I'd be curious for us to turn each others wheels....I bet they feel the exact same...have you ever turned a actual manual rack in a 7??..mine isnt TOO much harder to turn than that....the only time you can notice a difference is at a dead stop...

marcus219

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering2.htm

hows it going to hurt the rack....a manual rack has grease to lube the rack n pinion...i have a bit of p/s fluid still in there.....

i'm open to ideas and opinions...elaborate for me..

autocrash

Ok, I was just wondering which method you used. When you turn it lock to lock it doesn't remove all the fluid, so your rack remains lubricated.
However if you had forced the fluid out (with compressed air, etc.) it would have run dry... the manual rack was designed to operate without fluid in it.
The power rack seizes when dry.
The only disadvantage to your method is what I mentioned earlier. When you cap off the ends, you have to force air against those caps (if you look on the page you posted, you are forcing a piston to compress air against that cap (=extra steering effort). Now if the seals are bad you won't notice any difference (other than the ratio thing...) and it may only be a small difference anyway. But my point is that by running a loop between those two sides of the piston, you reduce the pumping losses, thereby reducing steering effort (maybe only a small bit, I don't know... *shrug*)

And if you decided to keep all/most of the fluid in the rack, it would obviously become neccesary to run the loop.

BUT I agree with your point that it is not neccesary to buy an *extremely* overpriced loop line ($300, wtf?!?). It is a fairly simple piece to fabricate, especially considering you will have the fittings off the orgininal line to re-use...