Ok guys I had to rebuild my calipers so I figured I'd go ahead and put in my DTSS eliminators while I was under there, and the drivers side went without a hitch after getting my brakes off.

But now I'm on the passenger side and its being a royal pain in my ***. I have everything off and out of the way and trying to get the DTSS bolt out but it seems to be seized to the bushings sleeve or the bushing itself.

Either way I can't get the bolt to move more that a quarter of a turn with my impact gun, then it seized up and starts trying to move the whole carrier instead. I've soaked it in wd40 all day and its still not willing to turn anymore than it did the first time I tried.

Did any of you guys run into this problem when you were doing yours, my next plan is to carefully take a propane torch or something to it to try to melt some of the rubber and hopefully get it out. Buy what do you suggest.

 

i think the bolt maybe stripped

 

......Genius..

Put some heat on the bolt itself, try to get both sides. When its hot try to impact it. Other than that...like you said burn the rubber out of it (Wear a mask...that crap'll kill ya)

 

I had the exact same thing happen to me when I tried to remove my toe control hubs. Luckily my Grandfather had a 3 ft breaker laying around. Long story short the bolt was siezed to the inner sleeve of the old bushing. So I had to cut that away from the bolf when I finally got it out

 

i see several problems here

you shouldnt be using wd40 to soak it. you should be using an accual penetrant like liquid wrench or something of the like.



and i have never accually done this but your trying to remove a bolt from a bushing correct? of so then it makes absolutley no sence WHAT SO EVER to heat the bolt....last time i checked, when you heat something, it EXPANDS. member in highschool when you had the metal ball threw the ring? when you heated it, it wouldnt fit...would it... heat the area AROUND the bolt.

 

Exactly...you've never actually done it. I get what your saying, expanding it doesnt make sense..but in doing that its actually moving and getting "unstuck" (for lack of a better term) from all the crap/rust thats holding it from moving. Trust me...it works

 

Maybe I didn't make why I was heating up the area clear enough, I don't plan on heating the bolt to try to expand anything. What I want to do is heat it so the rubber around the sleeve melts out a bit. Maybe that way the sleeve can have more room to turn and give enough leverage for the impact to loosen the sleeve from the bolt if that makes any sense.

I'll try that before I go crazy with trying to burn whats left of the bushing left out of there.


Jebus I hope I have better luck than you did on this project, I really am not in any mood at this point to have to fix more siezed and rounded of bolts at this point haha.

No the bolt isn't stripped, if the bolt was stripped I would have said the bolt was stripped and cursed the skies instead of posting a thread on here asshat.

 

use the torch on the surrounding metal ring.
i had sort of the same problem. except it wasnt the bolt but the actual dtss crap was jammed inside. i tried everything. until i got some heat to it and hammered at it back and forth. i heated the outer ring taht holds it mind you.

 

and make sure you put the DTSS eliminators in the correct way or else it could be dangerous. parts will sag loose if you dont install them right.

 

wow... and i thought i was the only one having this same problem this weekend... except with the opposite side... i cant get the drivers side out for nothing... and i can see the bushing move when i try to crank the bolt out...

ill give some of these ideas a try...

 

you're better off heating the metal AROUND the bolt, not the bolt itself. the heat will have the same effect on the gunk holding it tight AND you'll get more space to back the bolt out instead of less.

 

PB blaster
wd40 wont touch it

 

Looks like my original idea is going to be the way to go.

And just for safety sake what is the right way for them to be installed just to make sure I don't die. My logic figured that the bigger end of the bushing should be on the top, with the narrow end of the sleeve also up so it fits into the little groove where the bolt threads into. Correct?

 

i'll post pics up of mine later today (after work) since i gotta leave.. like.. NOW. haha.

 

Bitchin

 

here's some pics of how to/ and how NOT too.. haha.. it just takes a little trial and error.





notice how far the bolt dives into the rubber ? not good.. see how much slack there is between the moving parts?

proper way is this.

 

Cool, thanks for the pictures to go by. But my bushing looks different, but its the corksport version too, so that might be why. I'll try and get my own pictures posted up tomorrow and see what the census is on whether or not its safe the way they are.

And FWIW I got the passenger side bolt out, heating the aluminum to melt the rubber around the sleeve worked great. only drawback was getting the sleeve of the bolt but a grinder and a chisel made pretty quick work of that.

 

what did you do exactly to get the bolt out? ^^

 

no prob, just kind of sucks that i cant figure out my fuel problem.

 

What I did was, I took a propane torch and heated up the aluminum that the bushing seats into and heated it up for a while then impacted the bolt back and forth a little. Then heated the aluminum again to melt the rubber some more, and put some heat to the cast iron where the threads of the bolt are and impacted a little more and it slowly started to come out. Applied heat to the aluminum one more time and the rubber melted enough to let the sleeve spin freely and the bolt came out. Work like a charm, you just gotta be careful not to melt the cv boot because its like right beside the bushing, I just had some water nearby to put on the boot to keep it cool.

 

What kinda fuel problems are you having?

 

i'm not getting any.. that pretty much says it all lmao.

 

And you've checked your circuit opening relay and fuel pump through the check connector already I hope? If not what are you waiting for get out there and test it man!

 

thanks... ill give that a try this weekend...

 

yea i jumped the yellow connector the the ignition on thing for the fuel pump.. and i'm getting fuel. i think i might have my fuel lines backwards where they connect to the metal lines near the firewall and the oil pedestal.
yea, i actually wired an LED to the pump to make sure its getting power.. and sure it enough. it lights up when i crank, and when i jump the wire...
i replaced my leading coil packs.. umm, cant think of what else could do it. maybe a bad afm?? i dunno lol. it sucks.