2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Drivetrain problems

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Old May 11, 2011 | 05:05 PM
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RX-7GTU's Avatar
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Big, Smokey Burnout
 
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From: South Dakota
Exclamation Drivetrain problems

i have a 1987 rx7 N/A with a five speed and i was driving it home today and the car started slowing down, and i gave it a little more power just trying to get it home, and then it just wouldn't move at all. i looked under the car, and the drive shaft would not move. as i was driving it home, i smelled a smell like rubber burning. is the clutch out on it? thanks in advance
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Old May 11, 2011 | 10:06 PM
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blk87Turbo2's Avatar
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From: USAF in Germany
Guess you're not doing 95 in third gear with your "racing wing" now eh?

Yeah, your clutch is toast

And it's drivetrain, not "driveterrain"
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Old May 11, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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Big, Smokey Burnout
 
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From: South Dakota
easy fix, just expensive
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Old May 12, 2011 | 12:17 AM
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texFCturboII's Avatar
version 2.0
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Stop doing burnouts and redlining it in 3rd all the time.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:58 AM
  #5  
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Big, Smokey Burnout
 
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From: South Dakota
Originally Posted by Vdub2002


btw, drive shaft wont move unless car is... rocket science is hard aint it.
well you know it just might. that is, if the ring-n-pinion gears are out, or you driveshaft is broke
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Old May 12, 2011 | 09:56 PM
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RRTEC's Avatar
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From: Spring Hill TN 37174
Perhaps Blown motor? Checked your oil recently? Or coolant?
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Old May 14, 2011 | 11:35 PM
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I "lost" my emissions....
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From: lillington, nc
OK your going to need to find out what the problem is. First you need to remove the possibility of a bad engine. For that you will need a compression tester which Im sure you have on hand.
Remove both trailing plugs, you obviously know which those are so I wont bother saying. insert the tester into the front housing and hook up a remote starter switch, that'll be in your toolbox in the drawer marked, electrical system diagnosis and repair. you know where to hook the leads so do that now.
The throttle body needs to be chocked open and the ignition disabled, pretty strait forward. rotate the engine to a minimum of 500 rpms and read both peak and individual psi to determine the condition of your apex seals. you can refer to your mazda factory workshop manual for specifications.
Now for the rear rotor, same procedure as before, being sure of course the engine is warm.
*if the motor wont rotate, grab your snap-on/craftsman 24 1/2 inch ratcheting breaker bar and the appropriate sized socket and attempt to manually turn the engine over, if clutch fan equipped you may find easier access by using your 3 ton floor jack and some stands, removing the series of 10mm bolts from the underbelly pan, (Dont lose them in the dirt/mud) and accessing the e-shaft from below. Be sure to place the transmission in neutral or the obvious will happen.
Assuming that it wont rotate, you may need to disassemble the engine for repairs, typically a 2-3 hour job dependent on the duration of your moonshine break.
Assuming it rotated to begin with and you performed all the necessary ems tests, you need to remove the tranny and inspect the clutch, the flywheel requires a special socket that you probably keep with all your specialty diesel or tractor tools. 2 1/8.
Best of luck and make sure you don't perform this with the engine running, I feel its important to mention that in this *special* case
your welcome.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 10:47 AM
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Aaron Cake's Avatar
Engine, Not Motor
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Thread cleaned.
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