Drive shaft queshtion
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 3
From: Kicking down doors in a neighborhood near you
'88 GLU? If its a N/A car that needs a driveshaft, the shaft needs to come out of a N/A car.
If you put a TII engine in the N/A car, you can either keep the N/A drive train, or you need the TII drive train (tranny, shaft, rear diff, and halfshafts)
If you put a TII engine in the N/A car, you can either keep the N/A drive train, or you need the TII drive train (tranny, shaft, rear diff, and halfshafts)
Last edited by Project84; Mar 27, 2005 at 11:52 AM.
I am sorry GTU. If the drive shaft dont fit I must have swaped the tranny to ;-) I want to keep my rear end and axels I want my LSD. The mazdatrix shaft is far more then I am willin to pay. I will cut one out of cardboard befor I pay $300 for one.
Last edited by iceblue; Mar 27, 2005 at 11:56 AM.
Go to a local shop and have them make you one. You'll need to make accurate measurements though. I bought one from Mazdatrix though. It's still working just fine after a couple of years. I DID get it rebalanced by a local shop though. That cost another fifty bucks.
I've heard an automatic driveshaft will reach but is shorter than what might be desired.
I've heard an automatic driveshaft will reach but is shorter than what might be desired.
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You can get an auto tranny driveshaft it is about 2 inches too short but all you need is the slip yoke. You get get the u-joints that are staked in pressed out and put it on the N/A driveshaft you can get the replacement u-joints at this site:
http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/u-j...taked_type.htm
Thats what I did and it worked out just fine.
http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/u-j...taked_type.htm
Thats what I did and it worked out just fine.
I have the front yoke for the TII shaft and a full shaft. However I do not know if the TII shaft is longer or not or shorter hten a NA shaft and if the rear yoke that mounts to the DIFF is another size from the NA. Simply said - If the length is the same and the rear yoke to the diff is same size then all I need is a TII axel. If they are not Then I need to have yokes fabed on. So I am realy looking for an awnser of. they are the same length or they are not and the rear yokes are the same size or they are not.
The turbo II diff flange is larger so you can't bolt the turbo II driveshaft to your GTU diff. If it were up to me I'd swap in the stronger turbo II LSD, axles and driveshaft. That's what I'm doing for my GTU.
Last edited by RoadRaceJosh; Mar 28, 2005 at 04:07 AM. Reason: mistake
I think it will hold quit well. I have seen them under far more torque stress then a TII swap puts out and with no problems what so ever. So it Apears I have to have one made
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Don't redrill the flange. It works, but can cause serious vibration issues.
Just bite the bullet and buy the Mazdatrix shaft, or have a driveline shop make one for you. Either way, it's going to cost around $300. Pay the money and do it right from the start.
Just bite the bullet and buy the Mazdatrix shaft, or have a driveline shop make one for you. Either way, it's going to cost around $300. Pay the money and do it right from the start.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Go to a local shop and have them make you one...
Oh, I also have a TII driveshaft as well as an N/A driveshaft that I am willing to sell if anyone is interested to make a hybrid (the TII shaft is larger OD than the N/A shaft, though)
I built my driveshaft for $75. I bought an auto tranny driveshaft because the slip yoke fits the turbo tranny. I then got the staked in u-joints pressed out then ordered the replaceable u-joint from http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/u-...staked_type.htm for $25 a piece. I put the auto tranny slip yoke on the N/A driveshaft. That is the way I would do it because it is not only cost effective but you can replace the u-joints in the driveshaft if they wear out.
If I understand you right. The AT shaft yoke ujoints are the same size as the TII shafts? I have a TII front yoke but the ujoints are larger then the NA shafts so a ujoint press is not an option. You are saying to press my yoke off my NA shaft and use the yoke of a AT shaft and buy thows ujoints? meaning I need a AT shaft or front yok and ujoints right?
Yes the slip yoke for the AT fits the turbo tranny and has the same size u-joint as the n/a shaft. I had replaceable joints put into the AT yoke and put it on the N/A shaft.
Originally Posted by yuichiror
There's not a whole lot of info about the Mazdatrix TII to NA driveshaft. Is it specifically designed to bolt onto a Turbo transmission then onto an NA rearend?
So the AT drive shaft will not work on its own. You need a NA shaft and a AT shaft and replace the ujoints and swap yokes correct? Or will a AT shaft work for a short time untill you swap yokes?
I know this post here will yield results of just get the Mazda trix or replace the u joints. The reson im stressing it is my deadline to get car on the road is to closs and I wont be able to finish in time. So I am doing what I can to get it on road and fix it like the following week.
I know this post here will yield results of just get the Mazda trix or replace the u joints. The reson im stressing it is my deadline to get car on the road is to closs and I wont be able to finish in time. So I am doing what I can to get it on road and fix it like the following week.
Last edited by iceblue; Mar 30, 2005 at 11:11 PM.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Plug in and bolt on. Yes.
Oh, and don't ask how I know
Well I'm doing a TII swap(obviously). So when I take out my current engine and transmission, while I'm removing the engine, go ahead and remove the whole exhaust, cats down to muffers, ok. Thanks for the advice!!
Originally Posted by Falcoms
Oh, and if you put it on, it's a HELL of alot easier if you remove the entire exhaust from the maifold back (Read: Don't just take off cat's and leave Y-pipe in place), otherwise it's a MAJOR PIA to save yourself a few minutes of work.
Oh, and don't ask how I know
Oh, and don't ask how I know



